Molding planes...the slope steepens

[Mark Stutz]

Well, the slope steepens.:D It starts ou very innocently. Afew hand planes and a couple block planes. Then the plane till overflows. Then chisels, braces, scrapers. Maybe a plow plane or a 45/55. Then it gets worse!:D ;)

I finally found some decent molding planes at a price I was willing to pay. All 3 are Ohio. I flattened the back of one, though I don't have any way of doing the bevel. Tried it on some pine...not yet ready to show anyone the result:mad Probably will have to make a new wedge for one.

Several questions arise. 1) What do I need to sharpen these? 2) Is there an optiaml orientation for the wood..i.e. if I'm using a 2X4 for example, should i use the face side or the edge? 3) Should I use this plane start to finish, or something else for removing most of the waste? I don't have any H&R...yet. 4) Any books (hopefully illustrated) or sites that can take me thru this process?

Thanks. Mark

[Steve Wargo]

I knew it was just a matter of time. To answer some of your questions I use oil slip stones to sharpen my profiles. You can use them from start to finish. You use the spring angle to align the plane to the work surface. Drop me a note if you have more questions. Nice. score.

[Jake Darvall]

There tricky things Mark.

Might be first worth checking yours to see if there actually flat....a lot of them have developed warps....uno, just look down the nose, and if you see a shadow line at the mouth, when your eyes lined up with the sole, it may mean the rear of the sole is higher than the nose. can check with a ruler accross the mouth.

I've come accross quite a few like that. Because if its there theirs a good chance it just won't work. And too hard to bother fixing in my book. Suspect its the result of that wedge being being fixed tight for so long, lifting the nose.

then you have to sharpen them and maintain the profile the same as the sole...etc ..Shore Steve can help you there.

goodluck....maybe first try getting that smallest plane to work.

[Mark Stutz]

Jake,
I eyeballed it pretty good at the antique place where I got it, but checking with a straightedge is a good idea...I would have done it with a metal plane...don't know why it didn't occur to me here:confused:

Steve,
Was hoping you'd chime in...when are you going back to Oklahoma?:D ;) :D

So far, I can get it to cut only "so deep" befor it bottoms out without the profile complete. I suspect it has to do with how it was sharpened in the past. Looks like I'll have to look at Woodcraft to see what they have in the way of slipstones.

If I can get a profile on something like pine, I've heard that I can put green rouge on to use for honing? It seems as if the profile would not match exactly since the cutting angle is different fro the bevel angle. Or soed it make that much difference? Thanks.

Mark

[Dusty Fuller]

Starting from an edge may be a little easier, or using another tool to give yourself and the plane something to work from. I sharpen mine with cloth-backed sandpaper and a dowel, or just the paper depending on what I can fit in the profile. If the bodies are warped, you can use the iron to make another body. I made a round moulding plane to replace one that was losing some wood from the sole. It would have been easier if I had a router and a fluting bit or something related, but seeing as I do not (yet) I used carving tools. Sounds crude but I used those and then a cheapo chisel filed to a round scraper. It was fun, it works, and I'm proud of it! I've started looking for moulding irons now, not worrying too much about the plane body... forget the slope I think I fell off of a cliff!

Dusty

[Mark Stutz]

Well, I got some slip stones from Woodcraft. Best part was the "dice sale" they had going on today. Roll 2 dice, the third is a guarantee 6, add the 3 and that's the discount. 18% off wasn't bad!:D Now do I soak the new stones in oil first, or just coat them periodically?

[Dave Anderson NH]

The slope is still steepening I see. I will be happy to lead you into temptation and give you a little push on September 21st in Nashua. Do the initials LFOD carry any recollections? It's time for you to find a copy of Mike Dunbar's book in restoring and tuning old hand tools. There's a great section on reshaping and sharpening the irons on old molding planes as well as making wedges etc. This is the best illustrated reference I know of for those like us. If you need it, I'd be happy to loan you my copy.

[Steve Clardy]

Hmmm.

I see Mark is way past the point of return.
No hope for you Mark.;)

[greg Forster]

One fault with old molding planes is the wood body has shrunk some in width,
the iron no longer "matching up". This will cause the plane to cut until it starts to ride on part of the wooden body.