Dovetail jig Router - One or Two?

[Michael Lutz]

I have a Leigh D4 Jig and I will be just getting around to using it in the next month or so for an upcoming desk project. I have two routers, a PC 690 and 7518. I can't imagine using the 7518 router for dovetailing, so I have esentially one router to use on the jig. So do others manage with only router?

I have read some threads where people have one router set up with a dovetail bit and the other with a straight bit. So I was just wondering if it would make it easier to pick up another router to use by hand.

Thanks,

Mike

[Bill Wyko]

Now that you mention it. How well would a laminate trimmer work for dovetails?

[glenn bradley]

If you'll do lots of DT's and have no issue with picking up another router I would do it for the convenience. I use a Mil 5615 with the strap grip. The plate and guide (almost) never get moved, I just switch bits.

[Jim Becker]

Glenn has it...if you're doing a lot of through dovetails, it might be worth having a second 10-12 amp fixed base router available so you can avoid the cutter swapping and height re-setting. If your use is occasional, it may be harder to justify...although if you find a deal or a nice used router... ;)

[Steve Clardy]

I just do half blinds.

So I have only 1 dedicated router for that

[Michael Lutz]

For the upcoming desk project we will have around 10 to 12 dovetailed drawers, mainly file drawers. I was going to use through dovetails.

Mike

[Tom Cowie]

I have a Leigh D4 Jig and I will be just getting around to using it in the next month or so for an upcoming desk project. I have two routers, a PC 690 and 7518. I can't imagine using the 7518 router for dovetailing, so I have esentially one router to use on the jig. So do others manage with only router?

I have read some threads where people have one router set up with a dovetail bit and the other with a straight bit. So I was just wondering if it would make it easier to pick up another router to use by hand.

Thanks,

Mike


Hi Mike

I also have the D4 and I have dedicated two PC plunge routers for dovetailing tasks. I think it makes the whole process go much smoother. Look around for the end of summer deals you may pick up a matching set cheap this time of year .

Tom

[glenn bradley]

Hi Mike

I also have the D4 and I have dedicated two PC plunge routers for dovetailing tasks. I think it makes the whole process go much smoother. Look around for the end of summer deals you may pick up a matching set cheap this time of year .

Tom

Hi Tom,

Could you (or anyone else) talk a little bit about plunge routers with DT jigs. Probably just my experience level but I'm missing the advantage. Help the rookie out.

[John Lucas]

Glenn,
I dont think there is a argument for plunge router and dovetail jigs. If you do you such a router, you will lock the depth and leave it locked rather than plunge. If I use a plunge router with the jig, it is usually because I am too lazy to go get a fixed router off the shelf.
As to two routers, straight bit and dovetail bit, that is for through dovetails. Semi-blind dovetails use the dovetail bit by itself and cut both pieces at one time. There is no change of depth between cuts.
For drawer making, I often use the 1/2-blind because they are faster. There may be an argument for greater strength in a thru dovetail but that additional strength is negligible in my opinion.

[Tom Cowie]

Hi Tom,

Could you (or anyone else) talk a little bit about plunge routers with DT jigs. Probably just my experience level but I'm missing the advantage. Help the rookie out.


Hi Glen

I use the PC plunge routers for just about everything. As far as any advantage in using it and the D4 together I suppose the fine depth adjustment is nice.
So nobody is confused the routers are basically fixed base routers when they have the guide bushing installed.

For me it's just the router of choice not anything to do with it being a plunge router.

Tom

[Al Navas]

I have a Leigh D4 Jig and I will be just getting around to using it in the next month or so for an upcoming desk project....

Michael,

I have both plunge and fixed base routers that I use on the D4 (added this, and deleted: under the table). Too much is made out of changing bits and depth. Takes no longer than about two minutes, and it is quite easy to go back to the original settings - the secret is: Keep samples of the tails and pins that give you the best fit, and use them as depth templates next time you use the same bit sizes.




...Semi-blind dovetails use the dovetail bit by itself and cut both pieces at one time...


John,

Michael has a Leigh D4. This jig cuts only one board at a time, unlike others.


Al

[CPeter James]

PC 690s are available for under $100 if you look around. I just picked up a reconditioned one for $89. It is so much easier not to have to change bits. I actually have 4 PC 690s. Some operations require 4 different bits.

CPeter

[Dave Arbuckle]

One router, IMO. For through dovetails, you set up the fingers for the layout you desire, mount the dovetail bit, and route all your tail boards. Then you change to straight bit, and route all your pin boards. One bit change per setup, no matter how many joints you're making. Not worth getting out another router to me. Throughs also do not have critical fit-related height adjustment, the bit height is simply set to the thickness of the mating board.

As others have mentioned, halfblinds only use one bit anyway.

Proof of pudding? When I do D4 classes, I have two routers on hand (protection from machine failure, and to show two different height adjustment mechanisms), and yet I use only one to make throughs. ;)