Long Ranger - Dust Collector Remote - Turns on by itself...

[Todd Burch]

I have the Long Ranger remote control switch for my 1.5HP dust collector (220v). After a power outage, the dust collector turns itself on.

I called Grizzly some time ago to explain the problem, and they were aware of it and said that's just how it works.

Can I do anything to it to ensure that the remote control unit won't turn the dust collector on after a power spike? I can always unplug it, and when I will be out of the shop for a while, I do. However, there's got to be better way.

Thanks, Todd.

[John Weber]

I think it happen to me once, I just it unplug when we go on trips. I wish it didn't do it either, but we've had a couple dozen outages since then and it hasn't done it again. Let know if you find out anything.

John

[John Preston]

One way to make sure it never happens is have a breaker with a low voltage trip. If the voltage drops below a specified limit, the breaker will open.

The only problem with this is that I expect the danged things are expensive for 120 or 220 v systems. I'm used to seeing these in industrial applications.

The other option is to just put a switch by your lights. When you leave, turn off the power to yer Kemo Sabe at the same time.

[Byron Trantham]

Todd, is the switch on the unit a magnetic switch? If it is, removal of power should disengage it. Try this, turn the unit on and then unplug it. Now plug it back in. Did it start? It shouldn't. If it does and its a magnetic switch, then I would be looking at that switch. If it works as advertised then I would think there is something wrong with the Long Ranger control unit. I've been using a 110 V Long Ranger for about four years and we get a lot of power outages and I have never experienced the unit coming on after restoring power.

[Bart Leetch]

I have had the same thing happen with my 220 volt unit a couple of times.

[JeffKranz]

Todd,

I had the same problem and since my shop was 5 miles from home it could be running for days. What I did was go to Radio Shack and get a 110 volt ac relay and would wire it to the lights I always have on when I'm in the shop. This relay would sit between the long ranger and the dust collector. If the lights were not on in the shop the dust collector would not run. When the lights are on in the shop the dust collector works fine. I never leave without turning out the lights.

Hope this helps..

If you need a quick drawing let me know.

kranzj@buckeye-express.com

[Terry Quiram]

Mine doesn't even turn on anymore. The last time it was used it was turned on but wouldn't turn off. I unplugged it and now it won't work. Any suggestions?

[Bart Leetch]

1 of 2 things change the battery in the remote, I noticed that mine will do this if the battery is low. Or you may have to get a new remote check to see which frequency your remote is & get the same one. Penn State has them. This happens when you drop the remote to many times DAMHIKT. A safety pin through the hole on the clip on the back side & through the pocket on my apron took care of this problem.

[Bart Leetch]

Todd,

I had the same problem and since my shop was 5 miles from home it could be running for days. What I did was go to Radio Shack and get a 110 volt ac relay and would wire it to the lights I always have on when I'm in the shop. This relay would sit between the long ranger and the dust collector. If the lights were not on in the shop the dust collector would not run. When the lights are on in the shop the dust collector works fine. I never leave without turning out the lights.

Hope this helps..

If you need a quick drawing let me know.

kranzj@buckeye-express.com

Is this for the 220 volt or 110 volt system? I have the 220 volt remote system.

[Mark Singer]

My 220v unit has been flawless! We have had some power outages!

[JayStPeter]

I've had the same problem in the past. I plan on using a 110V coiled relay to switch the power on my 220V DC. Then I'll use the 110 Long Ranger from my old DC to power the relay. I had planned on using a lighting circuit so turning off the lights would ensure that the DC will never go on. Great minds think alike I guess.

Jay

[Todd Burch]

Jeff, I would like to see a picture. Not sure how the 110 relay would work for the 220 dust collector. Thanks, Todd.

[Dale Thompson]

Being the totally coordinated - never make a mistake- klutz that I am, I can assure you that I have never dropped or otherwise abused my remote. However, every once in a while, a Gremlin gets into my shop and does things which reflect on my personal perfection. :cool:

Whatever, check out your "Instruction Manual" (the same information is printed on your receiver box) and try the, "Changing and matching the Frequency Code" of your transmitter and receiver. I have had luck with doing this on two occasions when some gremlin or pervert dropped or otherwise abused my Long Ranger Remote. I hope it works for you.

Dale T.

[Jim Becker]

I do not have this problem with the X-10 based system I use with the cyclone. (I also have it on a different "house code" from the stuff in the house to avoid "accidents" when pressing buttons in there!

[Chris Padilla]

Jim,

What system is this that you have? I am putting together a cyclone but I have a 240 V/ 5 HP motor I gotta switch off and on and I haven't found any remote systems being able to handle that size of motor.

Thanks

[Lynn Kasdorf]

These x-10 devices all use triacs to control the power. I've never trusted them. Triacs are just too prone to shorting on a big spike. So the thought of controlling a large inductive load, like a big motor directly with a triac scares me.

I've always felt that the Long Ranger device or the 220v x-10 switches were not a great way to go, and are pricey. What I use is a super-cheap x-10 lamp module which is pluged into a good surge protected plug strip, which is only on when the shop lights are on.

This lamp module powers the 110v coil of the biggest 2 pole relay I could lay my hands on- I found it in one of my boxes of junk, but they can be easily bought on ebay. This relay powers the 220vac to my 3 hp cyclone motor.

To control it the x10 module, I use the little 4 button keychain remotes from x10.com. This system works very well and is super cheap to do. If a lightning strike takes out the lamp module, a replacement is something like $7 or so from x10.com.

[Jim Becker]

What system is this that you have? I am putting together a cyclone but I have a 240 V/ 5 HP motor I gotta switch off and on and I haven't found any remote systems being able to handle that size of motor.

Chris, amperage draw is your issue with that 5hp motor. I think you'll need to use some kind of motor starter or contactor to actually supply power to the motor and use a remote like the LR or the X-10 based heavy duty 240v appliance module like I use. The limit on both of these is 20 amps, I believe, and your motor will exceed that. By using the contactor/relay, you eliminate the direct connection to the DC motor and the amperage issue with the switch. This would also work with a low-voltage wired remote system.

[Dennis Peacock]

Chris, amperage draw is your issue with that 5hp motor. I think you'll need to use some kind of motor starter or contactor to actually supply power to the motor and use a remote like the LR or the X-10 based heavy duty 240v appliance module like I use. The limit on both of these is 20 amps, I believe, and your motor will exceed that. By using the contactor/relay, you eliminate the direct connection to the DC motor and the amperage issue with the switch. This would also work with a low-voltage wired remote system.

Mr. Becker...!!!! You are <b>correct</b>!!!!!

All the details on how to accomplish this is on my personal web site in every detail.....Works so good....I can control my Cyclone from over 100 feet away......

[Dennis Peacock]

Jeff, I would like to see a picture. Not sure how the 110 relay would work for the 220 dust collector. Thanks, Todd.

Todd.....all the details about this are on my personal web site. I even posted the stuff here before. With my setup....you can control up to a 250HP 3PH setup if you have the commercial power to your shop.!!!

It is only limited to the size contactor you can buy and the type of power you have run to your shop.!! ;)

[Jim Becker]

All the details on how to accomplish this is on my personal web site in every detail

Great article, Dennis! Thanks for pointing us to it...

[Chris Padilla]

Dennis,

Very good instructions although I think a schematic would help a bit.

I had an email all typed out to Lynn and then I poke my head back in here and ended up deleting after reading your work.

Man, I do love this place more and more. The only thing is now I gotta return my $70 magnetic switch I ordered from Grizzly!! That should about cover the cost of parts for this!

Thanks so much, Dennis...just beautiful! :)

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis,

Very good instructions although I think a schematic would help a bit.

Thanks so much, Dennis...just beautiful! :)

<b>Schematic????</b> What in the world is a schematic..!!!!! ;)

Just remember.......

Black to Black....
White to White....
Ground to Ground....

and sh17 doesn't flow up hill...... :D

We often times have many ways of making things a LOT more complicated that they really should be or are. I'm guilty of that exact thing. Think simple first....

Glad to be of assistance.......!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Jim Becker]

and sh17 doesn't flow up hill......

It does when a pump is involved! :p

[Chris Padilla]

It does when a pump is involved! :p

...and if that pump is hooked to a 240 V 5 HP motor...it can flow quickly and thickly...:p

:cool:

[JeffKranz]

Here is a quick sketch. Once you supply power to the input of the relay it will allow current to flow from the long ranger to the dust collector. If you remove power to this relay the power will drop out to the collector. Make sure that the relay is rated for the proper amperage or higher.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

[Todd Burch]

Jeff, thanks a lot. I'll look into getting a relay.

Would it be installed in a junction box? What's code on something like this?

Thanks again, Todd.

[JeffKranz]

Todd,

I would put in a large junction box since you will need to run wires to both the male & female plugs and a wire from the light source. If you have any other questions email me..

kranzj@buckeye-express.com

Thanks,

Jeff

[Mike Kelly]

I also have an X10 220V appliance module to control my 1.5 HP cyclone. I have gone through several of them. They fail and don't work at all, which is OK, but I have had them intermittently turn on which is not good. My shop is 15 miles from my house so I cannot accept this. X10 has also discontinued this module so it is difficult to find. I just ordered another on EBay today because mine won't turn on except when it wants to. It worked twice this morning, but not for last 2 hours. My bandsaw and beltsander will have to be vacuumed out before I leave today. I had to wire a double pole switch going to it which I have to remember to turn off when I leave. (Sign on door going out helps!) I think heat gets to it. It is not in my air conditioned space which gets to outside temperatures daily. The last two I have had lasted about 1 to 2 years before crapping out.

[Jim Becker]

I may or may not have mentioned this earlier in this very old thread, but I bagged any wireless remote control of the cyclone in favor of a simple, centrally located normal wall switch that sends 120v control voltage to a contactor rated sufficiently on the 240v side for my system. Works like a champ and honestly, I don't find this method inconvenient in any way, shape or form. In fact, having to make a slight pause to move to the switch keeps the pace down which can help with mitigating "stupid mistakes" that can happen when one rushes... ;)

[steve swartz]

I agree with Jim on this one. I had the Shop Fox remote for my 2 HP dust collector. When mine died I tried changing the batteries and changing the code and nothing worked. My dust collector is on the outside wall of my shop so I decided it was a lot less aggravation and expense just to add a double pole switch in a central location. I also wired a small light socket in series with the switch so when the dust collector is on the light bulb is on. That way even I can remember to turn off the switch when I am shutting everything down. I also did the same thing for my air compressor which isn't inside my shop.

[Mike Henderson]

I wired my compressor to a motion sensor. If there's no motion in the shop, the compressor won't work. Same could be done with the dust collector. Since the motion sensor is 120V and the compressor is 240V, I control a relay with the motion sensor and the relay controls the 240V to the compressor.

I also have a switch which will disconnect the motion sensor (hard OFF) and another switch that will bypass the motion sensor (always ON). The bypass is for when I'm doing things out of the field of view of the motion sensor. The hard off is for when I want to make absolutely sure it's off.

Mike