Contractor 4" dust chute?

[Grant Vanbokklen]

I'm wanting to fix up my Craftsman contractors saw for better dust collection.
What is the best way to make a 4" chute for under the saw?
Anyone want to share how to best make a chute for a 4" hose?

I saw here on this forum a layout diagram for a sheetmetal version. But I've searched and cannot find it now. I'm thinking it has been removed by the poster.

There was a premade one that was mentioned in this thread:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=45552
Would it be best to save my time and buy a premade one?

Do I really need a funnel before the hose or can it be flat like this one? also posted in the above thread :
http://home.pacbell.net/jdismuk/sawdust.html
I know a funnel would be best but from the looks of it this guys saw is fairly dust free with the flat bottom.

[Tom Hargrove]

On my contractors saw, I filled in the bottom of the cabinet with 3/8" plywood. The plywood has a cutout underneath the blade dustshroud port where I fitted a sheet metal register boot with a 4" connection. I put a 45 degree elbow on the boot fitting, which in turn connects to the DC hose using a quick connect fitting. After using ths arrangement for a while, I put a small piece of aluminum flashing on one side of the opening to deflect stray sawdust into the boot.

I covered half of the opening on the rear of the saw with hardboard attached with velcro to focus the stream of air coming into the cabinet toward the register boot. As long as I have the DC hooked up, no sawdust escapes the cabinet, although some dust comes off the top of the blade, and a small amount ends up inside the cabinet. By using velcro, I can easily remove the hardboard when tilting the saw blade, or to access the cabinet for cleaning or belt changes.

[glenn bradley]

I believe Chuck Lenz has your sheet metal solution. I just boxed it off with plywood and cut a hole for a 4" metal stub like you use for clothes dryer hose. For my old router table I used a black PVC 3" to 3" coupler. The outside diameter is just about right for 4" DC hose.

[Greg Dykes]

I just received my new 2HP dust collector today from Harbor Freight (I actually bought it off of EBAY for $199 and free shipping but it came directly from HF) but have already been rigging up my toold in advance.

I built a cabinet for my saw to set on that has the center opened up for dust collection and storage on each side. I have a door on the fron side so I can open it up if anything ever falls into it. On the back, I have a 3" PVC closet flange (the fitting that hold your toilet to the floor). Using this fitting is great. It cost $3.29, already has bolt (screw) holes located arounf it AND has a 4" (well, very close to that) outside diameter to attach your 4" hose too. I have located mine flush with the bottom of the box.

A friend of mine that owns a cabinet shop has done the same thing and his works great. The nice thing about mounting your saw on a cabinet (with casters) is that it makes it mobile and you get to use all of the space under your saw and table extensions. If you are like me and have to use your small garage for a workshop you learn to use every square inch of space. One other thing. I was able to make the top of my saw the same height as my mobile work table. This allows me to use the table as outfeed to support long pieces I am cutting. If I ever learn how to post pictures on here I would be glad to send you one.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I can guarantee that you will want an easy way to get in the cabinet.

I'm always dropping the arbor nut or washer into my unisaw and pulling the front cover to get it out of there.

[Matt Meiser]

Yep--Although I bought one of those extendable magnet things and keep it by the saw to make that easier.

[Mike Pierson]

Grant - there is a article in FWW magazine about this topic....Nov/Dec 2000. You can download if your a member to their online deal. It shows the back panel and the "under catcher" approach.

I currently just have 1/4 ply with a square cut out of the center. Then have a plastic plate with 4" attachment attached in the center. But I am thinking of "upgrading" to the one that is on the FWW article....just bought a cyclone so in the process of shop overhaul anyway.

I don't know that you can avoid sawdust "pile-up" but if you can minimize it is just that much less you have to deal with later.