Which steel straight edge to get?

[Jason White]

I'd like to get a nice, thick straight edge that I can stand on its edge and use for checking flatness on my table saw, jointer, etc. Any recommendations? And is steel the best to get? Also, what's the best length -- 2ft?

JW

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Try the Lee Valley ones. Personally I would get the aluminum due to the weight.

Alu:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50074&cat=1,240,45313

Steel:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=56676&cat=1,240,45313

Take care, Mike

[Wilbur Pan]

For the purpose of checking machinery table flatness, why would you go with the lighter straightedge instead of the heavier one? I would think that the extra weight would be better for this purpose.

[Tom Veatch]

I'd like to get a nice, thick straight edge that I can stand on its edge and use for checking flatness on my table saw, jointer, etc. Any recommendations? And is steel the best to get? Also, what's the best length -- 2ft?

JW

I have a Starrett 3' steel straight edge, bevelled on one edge that is thick enough to be stable standing on the unbevelled edge. I'm very pleased with it. It's a Model 385-36 (http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/catalog/groups.asp?GrpTbl=3&GroupID=396&GrpTab=Spec). A two foot length might be OK, but I prefer the 3'.

I don't think it's necessary to limit yourself to steel for this application. Aluminum (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=50074), as long as you don't abuse it, should work fine, and would probably be a little less traumatic to the bank account. (McMaster-Carr online catalog page 2171 lists their 36" steel for $135)

[Chris Barnett]

I use a large heavy duty aluminum 4 ft. level, although I have several 3 and 4 ft straight edges. The level is a cast shape with two machined surfaces and does not bend.

[Gary Keedwell]

I have a 4 foot Starrett precision ground steel straight edge that I have had for a few years. Just the right length for my jointer. I finally started a case for it last week. Looking for hardware.:o :)

Gary K.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Wilbur, I simply prefer the Alu to Steel because (1) it's easier to move around, and (2) because there are no stresses placed upon it. Like a level made from Alu, unless it is abused it will maintain its manufactured straightness.

If I was in the trade of setting up machinery (like a friend who owns a rigging/machinery moving business) I would opt to supply everyone with steel edges because they are going to be roughly handled, dropped, thrown in the crummy, etc.

but in my own shop? Nah. Used and hung back on a wall. Right next to my Alu levels.

Take care, Mike

[Alan Schaffter]

Ok, I always thought I wanted a good, precision, straight edge, but at those prices, I'll rent or borrow. Come to think of it, the only thing I might ever use it for is to check and adjust the tables on my jointer. Except for the wings, I can't really do anything about my tablesaw top, and who needs to have that perfect anyway? What am I missing?

[glenn bradley]

The footprint on the aluminum is wider and it will stand by itself better if uneven floors to that extent are an issue. Just info, not a preference.

[Kermit Hodges]

I agree Alan. I use a very none precision 4' aluminum ruler to set up my jointers and anything else that needs a straight edge. I also use a wood carpenters 4' level. Either one works just fine. It's all in how you use it.

[Tony Shaftel]

I have the 3' Starrett and the 4' Lee Valley aluminum. Why? Because I the 4' Starrett was too expensive when I bought it, and LV wasn't yet selling theirs, so I ended up buying twice.

The LV, checked with the Starrett, is as straight as I am able to perceive. OTOH, my 4' Craftsman aluminum level is some thousandths off over its full length and I wouldn't use it to set a jointer. I once checked several such levels at OSH by holding them up against each other, and could not find any pair of edges that didn't show light. So, there may have been one straight edge among them, but not two.

[Tony Shaftel]

"..I wouldn't use it to set a jointer.."

OTOH, with due respect to Kermit I should say that I wouldn't use it because I have read I shouldn't use it, and because I have the straight edges to use. It well may be that the level could be used to set a jointer and I don't simply know any better.

[Randy Denby]

This is kind of on topic....regarding price. I bought a 4' Malco brand steel precision etched/ engraved ruler in 1987. I paid 78.00 for it at the wholesale supply house (HVAC) and thought it was outrageously high. I see now that quality/ precision is labor intensive and since I still use it daily, a bargain. What makes me sick tho, is the company I worked for back then ,sheetmetal division ,would cut these things in two on the stompshear by mistake almost weekly.:eek:

[Josiah Bartlett]

I have a 36" machinist's straight edge I got for about $80 at my local tool store. I originally bought it to check the flatness of a cylinder head and block on a BMW engine I was rebuilding, but its come in handy for checking machines too. I don't remember the brand now, but its been worth it. Its about 3/8" thick and weighs a lot.