Stile & Rail Widths????

[Greg Dykes]

I am new to all this so you guys show me some mercy, please. I have recently built all new kitchen cabinets and installed them. I am now ready to build my doors.

I am going to build raised panel doors using popular for my stiles and rails and PlumCreek HDMDF for the panels. I am using a 3 1/2" (overall) dia. panel bit. My question is what size is appropriate for the Stiles and Rails? Most all I see these days are 2 1/4" to 2 1/2".

The local suplier has 13/16"x 2" finished popular for .56 a foot. They do not have any 2 1/2" width finished material.

If I was to make the S&R wider than 2" I would have to rip from wider stock. My table saw is not the greatest (OLD Craftsman contractor) and I do not have a Jointer. However, I have just built a 42" x 48" Dual Roter table that I could use to finish the edges after I rip them.

Is 2" width to small or should I go larger?

[Bill White]

My friend, there is no pat answer to your question. Many door mfgrs. used different sizes for different stlyes of doors. In a nutshell, go with what you like and build 'em square.
A 2" S & R will look and perform well. Try one set as a sample to seew how it looks to you.
Bill

[Randal Stevenson]

You can edge joint a board with a router and a flush trim bit. Use a true straight edge and run the bushing along it.

Buy a board of each, do it that way (even your 2" is going to be slightly less after it's done), and see what you and the spouse thinks. It can be done, but your going to live with it (and your impressions can get multiplied by future buyers of your home).

[Greg Dykes]

I now have a 6" jointer and a new 30" Bysemeyer table fence for the old table saw so I can do some ripping.

[Alan Schaffter]

Struggled with this also, and the truth of the matter is what Bill says- what looks good to you.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I find that my stile&rail bits are somewhat self-jointing- just remove the bearing and use the router table fence and it should come out pretty close.

However, that doesn't take care of the other dimension of the boards, which tend to cause warped doors. Be very careful about selection if you aren't going to flatten the boards.

[Steve Clardy]

Whatever looks good to you.
My standard is 2.5

[Scot Ferraro]

I think that whatever looks good is what will work -- I usually go with 2 1/2 inch. Check out Sommerfeld Tools or some of the router-bit sites for some tips on measuring if you use a rail and stile cutter to route the groove and door.

Thanks,

Scot

[michael merlo]

just a suggestion ......

you should prolly first consider the type of hinge you are planning to use ... if you bore the pocket for the blum euro type hinge at 7/8" o.c. from the edge and after removal of approximately 1/8" in straightening the stile pieces, are left with 1 7/8" of material - be certain that the profile will not interfere with the pocket - i believe that is why 2 1/4" is the considered minimum for stiles when using this type of hinge. best to you.

[Steve Kohn]

I always thought that the bottom rail of the door was supposed to be made about 1/2 wider than the sides and top.

Is this correct?

[Steve Clardy]

I always thought that the bottom rail of the door was supposed to be made about 1/2 wider than the sides and top.

Is this correct?

I've never seen any set rules for that.
Its whatever you want to do there, however you want it to look:)

[David Werkheiser]

Greg,
I think 2" is on the small side. Look into getting a small jointer, it will open new areas for you. Also, I would not use poplar for door frames, too much movement ( replaced a number of warped doors ), soft maple would be a better wood. However, I use alot of poplar for face frames and moldings that get painted.
Best of luck with your kitchen, David W.