workbench top

[Stephen Sebed]

how thick would you make a butcher block style top?

I'm making a small workbench (approx 2' x 4') and I would like to try making a butcher block type top. I am planning on using scrap yellow pine, so if I screw up it won't be a waste of money.

also, how wide should the boards be?

Thanks,
Stephen

[Scott Coffelt]

I usually see them 2 to 2 1/2 inch thick with often a border that is larger. You want it thick enough to be solid. With Pine its going to be pretty soft and will nick easier and may not stand up to the pounding a top gets. If you are building for learning it should be fine. I would then recommend you layer a top of hardboard to stand the abuse more.

[Dennis Peacock]

Store bought / ordered bench tops are 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" in thickness. I made one two years ago for my Ex-Boss that was 3-1/2" thick....THAT was HEAVY..!!!!!

[Stan Smith]

I've seen some real nice benches over the years, but mine is just a workhorse type. I glued up to pieces of 1" plywood, added outside trim, and put a piece of hardboard on top. I just nailed the hardboard down. When it gets really messed up, I'll just replace the hardboard. Then there are those who have those mirror top laminated benches without a scratch of spec of dust on 'em.

Stan

[Stephen Sebed]

Ok, I'll go with 2 1/2" for the top. I figure that I can use the top as-is until it gets really messed up, then I'll put a piece of hardboard over top.

Do you guys put any finish on your bench? I would think poly will get all scratched up, but what about an oil finish for water protection, etc. Will BLO, or tung oil work well?

This bench isn't so much of a wood working bench as a utility bench. I plan on using it for reloading ammunition, starting plants in the spring, mounting a grinder for processing meat, and for smaller wood working projects. As you can see I have a lot of small hobbies.

Thanks again,
Stephen

[David Rose]

Stephen, as far as a loading bench goes, you will appreciate all the weight and strength you can get. If you load any bottle neck rounds extraction from the die stresses most benches a lot. I finally built a bench that does not move on the sizing operations and it is a joy in comparison to my old 2x4 bench that was laid edge to edge.

David


Ok, I'll go with 2 1/2" for the top. I figure that I can use the top as-is until it gets really messed up, then I'll put a piece of hardboard over top.

Do you guys put any finish on your bench? I would think poly will get all scratched up, but what about an oil finish for water protection, etc. Will BLO, or tung oil work well?

This bench isn't so much of a wood working bench as a utility bench. I plan on using it for reloading ammunition, starting plants in the spring, mounting a grinder for processing meat, and for smaller wood working projects. As you can see I have a lot of small hobbies.

Thanks again,
Stephen

[James Carmichael]

Stephen, as far as a loading bench goes, you will appreciate all the weight and strength you can get. If you load any bottle neck rounds extraction from the die stresses most benches a lot. I finally built a bench that does not move on the sizing operations and it is a joy in comparison to my old 2x4 bench that was laid edge to edge.

David

Weight is good for reloading, but not sure I would want a super-thick top for that application.

I never had much of a problem with sizing once I started using mica to lube the inside of the case necks. Actually, priming on the press tends to tip my bench more than anything. Unless your running a progressive, that's better done with a handtool, anyway. The bench is a sturdy one my dad built back in the 70s, about a 6' x 2' 2" thick top of laminated plywood and a masonite top.

If I were to change anything about it it might be to set the legs a little wider and shorter to give it a lower center of gravity to prevent tipping.
That thing has taken all the abuse I can dish out in 30 years of reloading and home gunsmithing and will probably be passed on to one of my kids.