Hand tools are contagious

[Greg Crawford]

Just picked up a cheap set of carving chisels at Harbor Freight. I wanted to ease into this part to see if I'll enjoy it, and wanted to see what type of chisels I might like. I also want to get some cheap palm chisels. At the price of good chisels, I want to have a good idea of what I really want before I drain my bank account. Any favorites for hand sharpening gouges?

[Fred Washam]

Greg, I realize that I am about to give you some completely unsolicited advice but I was once in the same place that you are now. When you are just starting out with hand tools it is tempting to buy the cheapest ones you can find, after all they all look alike anyway, so how much difference can there be? Trust me, the differences between good tools and cheap ones are huge. In many cases it is totally impossible to make the cheap tools work at all, and the end result is frustrating to say the least. Many times beginners give up on hand tools completely as a result of thier experiences with bad ones. I also understand that the tool budget is always an issue and good tools are expensive,( at least new ones are). If I were just starting out I would haunt the flea markets and junk stores looking for good used tools that can be put back into service with a little sweat equity involved. You will be amazed at what you can find out there, and in the process you will learn more than you ever thought possible about what seperates good tools from the junk that is on the market today. Good Luck to you.

[Richard Niemiec]

What Fred said. If you are consistent in stopping at garage sales, etc., when you see them, you never know what you'll find. For example, I snagged a set of 7 Whitherby socket chisels with leather topped handles, used not abused, with a light coating of rust for $20, and by golly, with a little clean up and sharpening they are heads and shoulders above what HF or the Borg will sell you. Even the "kids toys and clothes" type of sale have hidden surprises, I found a set of 6 swedish Berg bench chisels, never sharpened, dating from the late 1940s in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket under some plastic toys, paid the lady her $5 and never looked back. Both sets quality steel, hold an edge, and will last a lifetime, at least my lifetime. They're out there, just gotta find 'em. RN

[Michael Schwartz]

Cheap edge tools will neither take or hold and edge. They tend to turn people away from handtools based on their frustrations derived from using them.

The best carving tools for starting out is the basic flexcut set. The only thing with the flex cut tools, is they come with an interchangeable handle. The sets come with one, and it is a pain to switch them out between the tools. The extra handles cost 15 bucks, but it is really easy to make one for each tool, and custom fit them to your hand out of wood from the scrap pile.

Just take two peices, rout out a small slot, epoxy the tool in and epoxy the two halves together and shape it on a belt sander and with a rasp. The plus of making your own is you can make them fit your hand perfectly.

The flexcuts are excellent at holding an edge. They are nice for pushing (palming) and detail work. The look cheaply made at first impression but they are great tools.


If you are into mallet work, I like the Swiss Made tools from Woodcraft. They come polished and razor sharp out of the box. The most essential gouges are going to be your 5, 6, and 7, in a mid sized sweep. Add to that a back bent spoon gouge, and you will be in business.

As far as sharpening, use 600 grit sand paper on a dowel working up to the highest grit you can get for polishing the inside of the bevel. Hone the bevel on water stones, and then use water slip stones if you have them to polish the inside. Finish it up by polishing everythign with a strop and green chromium oxide compound, or on a felt or leather buffing wheel on a grinder.

[Greg Crawford]

Thanks all. I know these tools will never make a good tool, but I have no idea if I would prefer a longer chisel or a palm chisel, and didn't want to dive into something that wouldn't work for me. At this point, I'll just be hacking to see what feels comfortable. I also need sharpening practice, and really appreciate the dowel suggestion. Ever feel stupid that you didn't think of something so obvious? I've got waterstones, strop, rouge, etc. for my plane irons, just nothing to do the inside curves, so that's perfect. I'm going to have to look more seriously at the flex cut line, too. Garage sales aren't real convenient, since I'm usually working Friday mornings, when the best stuff usually is sold. In Houston, you can also put some major miles in trying to find them.

Thanks

[Jim Nardi]

I took a nice course at LV and some sandpaper a knot free pine board with some green compound on it. Get it fairly smooth with the sandpaper then use the pine and green compound.