Need opinion on which TS upgrade to make

[Shane Sura]

Hi folks. It looks like table saw night on the first page of the forum but I had a different question than all the rest. I currently have my grandfather's circa 1970's Craftsman table saw. It obviously has a lot of sentimental value as not only was it his but it was bought by my father for him. However, here is my dilemma. I hardly ever use the saw because, quite frankly, it is not that accurate. I recently upgraded to a WW II and that has helped a lot but the fence is just sub par. I believe it is the original fence and it does not lock into place and is just a PITA to use. So the question I pose is this. What makes more sense upgrading the fence on this old saw, or holding out and spending a bit more to get a better saw. I know this craftsman is not worth much except for sentimental value so I am not against upgrading eventually and just keeping it. That being said I am a good year away from an upgrade due to cost reasons. So until that year is up I have a TS that I would hardly use. I have often thought about a fence but am unsure of which one would be cost efficient enough not to feel like I am sinking a ton of money into this, obviously dated, saw.

To answer the next obvious question is I am just getting back into flat work (been doing lathe work for a while) and all I really want is something I can feel comfortable on to cut accurately and safely and perhaps do tenon's, dado's etc.

If you think the fence is the way to go I would appreciate any opinions on which fence (think economical!!).

Thanks in advance

Shane

[scott spencer]

If that's a full size 10" saw, the guts are essentially the same as the current Ridgid 3650, which is a popular saw. I'd look into a fence upgrade of some sort for sure, and maybe a decent basic miter gauge. With the recent blowout of Biese and Unifences from Lowe's, there should be some good bargains to be had in the classifieds. Vega and the Delta T2 are good fence values in the new market if you've missed the Lowes deals.

I'd also consider upgrading the standard belt to a link belt.

With a good blade and good alignment (including an accurate fence), there should be nothing you can't cut well.

[Shane Sura]

Yes definitely full size. One of the old school 12 amp 10 inch models. Big solid and heavy.

[Pat Germain]

Dude, your 70's Craftsman saw is a pretty good machine. Adding the fact it has sentimental value, you should most definately install a better fence, a link belt and a dust hood on the bottom. I did this to my Craftsman saw and it's a much lower quality mid-90's model. A better miter gauge would also help. I know mine is pretty sloppy.

I looked at a lot of fences for my Craftsman TS. The only fence I came across which would easily install was the Mulecab AccuSquare. It's reasonably priced, very accurate, has very good support, and adapts readily to a Craftsman saw.

I'm sure you could make a Biesemeyer or a Unifence work, but it might involve a lot more work. Of course, if you could score a Beis at Lowe's for $80, it would be worth it!

[Joe Jensen]

I learned WW on my dad's 1940s Sears saw. For Christmas two years ago I tuned ip up big time for him. I installed a Biesemeyer fence and nice 1.5" thick extension tables covered in Formica on either side to replace the webbed extensions. I also bought a nice miter guage and put in new bearings, turned steel pulleys, and a linked belt. Lastly, I took the base off and welded it up to make it solid again.

I live 1700 miles away and I was able to get everything shipped to a relatives, house, organize a way to get my dad away from the house with the grandkids for a whole day, and then do all the work with my brother was out. My dad was shocked the next morning (Christmas day).

The saw was worlds better after all this. Here is the cost breakdown.
fence $250 or so?
bearings $20
Belt $30
welding $0
miter guage $90
extensions $10 (almost free from counter top guy)

In the end it's still just a Sears contractors saw. If you work it you might be able to score one of the $80 Biesemeyer fences from Lowes that folks have been gloating about...joe


PS, adding the Biesemeyer Home Shop version to the Sears saw was easy. Had to drill a couple of holes. Maybe 1 hour total..joe

[Shane Sura]

Guys thanks I Think you confirmed what I knew which is it is a good saw just needs some TLC. So that being said sitting in my garage right now is a brand new biese $80 fence from lowes. I only had to call two stores to get the price. I look forward to this weekend to put it together. Next will probably be the linked belt. Thanks for all your help.

[Bill Wyko]

I have a great solution for you. Start checking your local Lowes, they've been closing out Biesmyer fences that are normally over 400 bucks for only 80 bucks. My BIL and I just got the last 2 here in Tucson but the other location is holding on to 3 more. They haven't dropped the price at that store yet but I know it's comming. I'd start calling pronto.:)

[glenn bradley]

Here's my 1970' C-man / Emerson saw.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38380&d=1147485852

My dad now owns it. If your part number starts with 113. that is Sears' code for Emerson made stuff. As Scott says, Emerson makes a lot of Ridgid's current stuff.

I added an Align-a-Rip fence (lose the original, it's not fixable), machined pulleys and a link belt, ZCI, some dust collection effort, a paddle power switch and some PALs for aligning the trunnions. Built an MDF extension table and hung a router table off the other side. I threw a 90# sack of cement in the bottom and that really helped with stability. It was a great saw for me and my dad is enjoying it as well.

[Shane Sura]

Glen,
That does look a lot like the saw I have. Mine is also the 113 model. I believe it is 113.24061 (but don't quote me on the last 5 digits). My legs are open unlike what looks like solid panels on yours. I was able to pick up the Biese fence from lowes for 80 bucks and it is all ready for install this weekend.

[scott spencer]

Glen,
That does look a lot like the saw I have. Mine is also the 113 model. I believe it is 113.24061 (but don't quote me on the last 5 digits). My legs are open unlike what looks like solid panels on yours. I was able to pick up the Biese fence from lowes for 80 bucks and it is all ready for install this weekend.

Shane - Great find on that Biese! Lotta people love that fence...me included! You might get $30-$50 for the original on Ebay...enough to make it worth doing anyway, and maybe enough to pffset the cost of a nice blade.

[Joe Branch]

Shane,

I highly recommend a Freud Diablo or other thin kerf blade. Compared to the WW II your saw will cut like butter through the hardwoods. I have two of the 70's Craftsman saws. A 113.299315 and a 113.298761. One is in use for three years. The other was suppose to be for backup parts (I acquired it cheap) I have not had to use any of those parts except the height wheel.

I also recommend the Craftsman XR-2412(2424) Rip Fence or the Rigid equivalent.

Joe

[glenn bradley]

Glen,
That does look a lot like the saw I have. Mine is also the 113 model. I believe it is 113.24061 (but don't quote me on the last 5 digits). My legs are open unlike what looks like solid panels on yours. I was able to pick up the Biese fence from lowes for 80 bucks and it is all ready for install this weekend.

Oh yeah . . .Bies-time. Slap that Bies on there and add a few more low-dollar do-dads and you will have a very nice saw. If it is a close cousin to mine, I made ZCI's out of 1/4" melamine covered hardboard. Ran a 1/16" rabbet around the bottom edge and it fit perfect plus the white melamine makes it easy to see what's going on. Add a splitter and rock-on.

I'll chime in on the thin kerf. I've got ten blades or so, all TK. I do use stabilizers but only because they came with something I bought(?). You can experiment but I doubt that they are a necessity.

[Shane Sura]

So another question. I just noticed tonight (I know I have looked at this before but since I took off the rails it really sunk in) that my table top depth (front to back) is only 20 inches. Is that going to pose a problem with the operation of the Biese fence?

I did just read their website and 20 inches is the minimum. How about some real world experience anyone?

[Shane Sura]

Ok guys thanks for all the advice. I just finished installing the new fence and wanted to post a picture. I did look and I cannot change the built as this is a direct feed motor.

[Mike Seals]

That's not a whole lot different than my old craftsman saw. I put a Shopfox fence on it that a friend had received from Grizzly and Grizzly told him not to send it back. It made a world of difference.