Beall Buff System ---- HELP!

[Doug M Jones]

I just purchased the Beall Buff system. I ran sandpaper over it per the instructions and then tried to use it. I made some bottle stoppers out of walnut and used Deft laquer on them. I thought I would use my new buffs to get a top notch shine and they looked worse than when I started. I finally got them back to where they were when I started or at least close but I am a little frustrated.

I know it's just my inexperience because everyone else raves about the product. Any hints you can give will be appreciated.


Thanks,

[Patrick Taylor]

Did the lacquer cure first? Did you put on too much tripoli, WD, or wax? Is your buffing speed appropriate? (~1800 rpm for me)

[Leo Pashea]

Doug, lacquer will, and should, produce a shine like glass with the Beall system. Here are a few quick thoughts for you to consider.
If you load too much compound, you will have problems. It only takes a little, especially with diamond and wax. If the lacquer wasn't fully cured you could have a problem achieving gloss. High speed can and will burn the lacquer, and make it gummy, horrible mess. It takes a while to get the buffs worked in to where they work well, but you shouldn't have had this difficulty with new buffs. Read the directions that come with the buffs, clean the build up off of them, reload them lightly, and try again. You must remember, a light touch is your friend, and heat is your enemy when buffing anything.

[Jim Becker]

That lacquer needs to cure for several weeks before buffing...it's not like a varnish oil mixture that you wipe on and can buff after a week. The heat of buffing will soften the uncured lacquer. (Same goes for a shellac finish)

Pat's advice is also good...MINIMAL use of the compounds is required. You'll need to add very little wax to the final buff, too, once it gets charged with the wax from use.

[Tony De Masi]

DON'T USE THE WHITE DIAMOND ON WALNUT. As you probably found out it leaves tiny bits of the WD embedded in the turning.

Tony

[Doug M Jones]

Thanks everybody. Sounds like I did everything wrong. The laquer was less than a week old so obviously not cured. The directions said it may take a little more compound the first time, so I was pretty liberal with the compound. I will clean off the wheels and then let everything cure before I start again.


I was running at 1800 on my Jet Mini Lathe so the speed should be ok but I can slow it down if you think it will help.

Tony, I do have white diamond embedded in some of the grain. May have to put it back on the lathe and take it a hair smaller to get rid of it.

Thanks for your help,

[Bernie Weishapl]

Doug I did the same thing the first time I buffed walnut. :mad: :mad: If you can put it back on the lathe it will sand out. I started at 150 and went up to 400 plus I didn't use WD the next time.

[Don Eddard]

That lacquer needs to cure for several weeks before buffing...
I've buffed out plenty of pieces a day or two after spraying several coats of lacquer. Yes, you can buff through it if you're not careful, but two weeks? Not here. YMMV

[Patrick Taylor]

That lacquer needs to cure for several weeks before buffing...it's not like a varnish oil mixture that you wipe on and can buff after a week.


FYI, I buff watco DO after 48 hrs from the last coat. Again, YMMV.

[Stacey Scarboro]

I have buffed Danish oil with success after 24 hours, and lacquer also. Although some pieces with the lacquer after 24 hours I think I over buffed and melted the finish. but 24 hours works well for me.
Stacey

[Steve Trauthwein]

What Leo said, I slow down quite a bit with lacquer. I think your time for the lacquer to cure was ok. Speed makes the difference with lacquer. Keep the piece moving and apply light pressure to the wheel.

Regards, Steve

[Bob Hallowell]

I use white diamonds on walnut I just don't add any fresh to it.

Bob

[Jerry Pittman]

Doug,
I buff lacquer in 24 hours after last coat and poly in 48 hours. Steve's points about keeping the piece moving and applying light pressure are important, especially with lacquer ,but in general as well. Bob's post about very little White Diamond on Walnut. For the most past I have found that I was initially using too much compound/wax on all three wheels. Once I worked the excess off, I have been getting much better results.
Jerry

[Ron Fleice]

I use solvent based laquer on pretty well everything I turn...after several coats spraying and approx an hour between i can buff on the Beall after it has dryed for at least an hour...never had a problem and can put a mirror shine on whatever I am finishing...also the white wheel does not leave anything on a previously sprayed laquer finish...maybe n ot the best way but it works for me
Ron

[Greg Savage]

There are different types of lacquer. Cure time depends on what kind of lacquer you are spraying, retarders, thinning agents and also temp and humidity conditions. I use a catalyzed lacquer from the ML Campell company. You can spray this stuff and have your project ready for packing in 15 minutes.

BTW....if you wet sand up to about 2500 or use micro-mesh.....forget the tripoli buffing, you just run the risk of blowing through the lacquer......just ultra-fine sanding and white diamond and you should have a glass-like finish.