typical face frames

[Jay Yoder]

Hi all. I am currently designing an adjust shelving unit and was wondering what width of face frames to use. I was thinkin a 1x2...

[frank shic]

how wide is the shelf? a lot of face frames are built with 1x2 (1 1/2 wide rails and stiles) - just go down to home depot sometime and measure the kraftmaid kitchen cabinets.

[Steve Clardy]

2" is my standard

[Jim Becker]

Proportional to the scale of the project is the "right" answer, but many folks stick with certain measurements. 2", like Steve mentions" isn't unusual. I will often use that, but the top rails on many of my pieces are only 1 1/4" and the bottom rails are sometimes taller...this because of perspective...and because I like it that way!

[frank shic]

1 1/4"? very interesting since that's very close to 32mm which is the shelf pin spacing on european style cabinets. if you built your face frames 32mm wide, you'd be able to use the 32mm system holes for all your hardware attachment as long as you flush the sides to the interior part of the face frame.

[Jim Becker]

I haven't gone metric yet, Frank, but that 1 1/4" width for the top rails (just under a counter, for example) seems to work well for me proportionally. But you bring up a good point and something I've thought about...

I generally build cabinetry with fully inset doors and face frames. Euro hinges are certainly available for face frame inset applications, but the choices are fewer than for Euro style cabinetry. By adjusting the relationship between the interior carcass and the face frames, it's quite easy to get rid of those dead corners and use the Euro hinges of your choice by flushing the inside of the stiles with the interior carcass. I did just that in my current cherry vanity projects, in fact. In this manner, I retain the face frame look but gain the easy hinging of the Euro system. For multiple cabinets, you just have to use spacers made from scrap between the carcass boxes to keep the face frames working in the right places.

[Steve Clardy]

I haven't gone metric yet, Frank, but that 1 1/4" width for the top rails (just under a counter, for example) seems to work well for me proportionally. But you bring up a good point and something I've thought about...

I generally build cabinetry with fully inset doors and face frames. Euro hinges are certainly available for face frame inset applications, but the choices are fewer than for Euro style cabinetry. By adjusting the relationship between the interior carcass and the face frames, it's quite easy to get rid of those dead corners and use the Euro hinges of your choice by flushing the inside of the stiles with the interior carcass. I did just that in my current cherry vanity projects, in fact. In this manner, I retain the face frame look but gain the easy hinging of the Euro system. For multiple cabinets, you just have to use spacers made from scrap between the carcass boxes to keep the face frames working in the right places.


Enlighten me on that Jim.:confused:

[Steve Rowe]

I haven't gone metric yet, Frank, but that 1 1/4" width for the top rails (just under a counter, for example) seems to work well for me proportionally. But you bring up a good point and something I've thought about...


Oh Jim, - Tell me it's not so. I thought European machines only worked in metric.:D

[Jim Becker]

Oh Jim, - Tell me it's not so. I thought European machines only worked in metric.

They are quite adept at cutting no matter how you choose to measure it and will be as accurate as you! (That's the scary part...) :D

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Steve, here's a picture. This works with just a face frame as shown or even with the "square" corner posts as I have on my vanities. The inside edge of the stiles/posts is even with the interior of the carcass. Therefore, you can use normal Euro hinges for inset applications. You just have to figure the correct depth to mount the, umm...mounts...for proper exposure...if you have multiple shadow lines as I do in my current project.

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[Steve Clardy]

umm Jim. Guess we aren't together here yet.


You said....

For multiple cabinets, you just have to use spacers made from scrap between the carcass boxes to keep the face frames working in the right places.



Are you talking about two or more adjoining cabinets?
Where are the scraps? Are you saying added stile material between the boxes:confused: :)

[Jamie Baalmann]

I like using 2 1/4.... when joining two cabinets its easy to just use a scrap of melamine at the front and the back making the stile flush on both sides( 3 @ 3/4.... 2 1/4). Usually use 1 1/2 on top rails bottom rail depends on style... but thats just me.

[Jim Becker]

LOL..."think"...not one of my better skills sometimes...

Here's what I mean, Steve...just a way to keep the carcasses aligned since the face frames extend beyond the boxes. You need to keep this into consideration when sizing things obviously.

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[Jamie Baalmann]

Isn't the joint of the two pieces a little unattractive? I mean couldnt that be one board instead of two? Or is that just how that cad program works?

[frank shic]

make the boxes in 32mm increments and start the first hole 32mm from the top or the bottom. you could then stack them vertically to form bigger units.

[Steve Clardy]

LOL..."think"...not one of my better skills sometimes...

Here's what I mean, Steve...just a way to keep the carcasses aligned since the face frames extend beyond the boxes. You need to keep this into consideration when sizing things obviously.



Ok. Gotcha.

I don't use the scraps as you do for spacers.
I just overhang the faces and adjoin the cabs there.

[frank shic]

jamie, if you don't like the sight of two vertical stiles butted up next to each other, you could slap a piece of molding over the intersection to hide it or you could also bead the edges.

[Jim Becker]

Isn't the joint of the two pieces a little unattractive?

Doesn't have to be...you can do your face frames to span multiple interior carcasses which eliminates some of the visible joints. This is no different that you might do with the "regular" way. The main consideration is that you don't create a "monster" that you cannot handle reasonably for installation. There will still be a need for "some" seams.

Taking this further, you can build a larger interior carcass and just use extra partitions to line up things with the door openings. Using lighter 1/2" material with some blocking would be acceptable and keep the weight gain down a little. Just think it through.