compressor comparison

[dale rex]

60 gal vertical compressors>>>>>>>>>>Campbell Hausfeld(aka Kobalt, Husky and Farmhand) vs. Ingersoll Rand. Both are around 3 HP 240v, 11 CFM cast iron cylinder. CH units retail around $399 and the IR is $575. Both have similar warranties. The IR unit has an outstanding reputation, but is it worth the extra$$$?

[Art Mann]

I would bet the IR is built a lot more ruggedly than the CH, but if you are a hobbiest who uses a compressor a few hours a week, you will probably never know the difference. If it were my decision and my circumstances, I would buy the CH and spend the rest of the money elsewhere.

[John Shuk]

I've looked at Craftsman and IR side by side.If you look at the components like regulators and switches the IR is far more robust. It might not matter to a hobbiest but I'm sure the motor isn't up to the same standard either.

[Stan Welborn]

Depends on how hard you run them. I wore a CH out in 3 years, but painting a few cars, running da's and other air tools will stress one. I replaced it with a IR, and 7 years later (the first 5 working the same), it's still going strong. If I were to buy another, for what I do now, I'd get a CH or Kobalt and pocket the diff.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, IMHO, the IR is worth the extra money, especially if you look at how it's constructed relative to the fittings and attention to detail.

[Allen Bookout]

$176 more is not much to make sure that you are getting a quality product that is going to last you for years.

[Larry Fox]

I agree with the other posters. I recently went through the same research that you are currently and went with the IR. It is a very nice product. However, I will say that the first one I got was defective as it had a hole in the cylinder head. I called IR and they instructed me to exchange it which I was able to do with no hassle. It is very very nice having the 60-gallon capacity.

[dale rex]

Larry.........which IR do u have?
I am looking at the SS3L3 at Tractor Supply. 3 HP 240v, around 11 CFM.

[Roy Hatch]

The IR compressor is rated for continuous duty and I'll bet the others aren't! Additionally, when the time comes and you no longer need it, an educated buyer will see the value. Many of us take pride in owning the best, but if this is more than you need, then go for something less expensive.

This is based on info at: http://www.air-components.com/electric-air-compressor.shtml
showing the SS3L3

Roy

[Nathan Conner]

How funny - I own both. Well, not exactly. I have a smaller (20 gallon) CH I bought a few years ago, and the SS5L5.

The CH was my shop compressor. Loud, got hot, kicked a 20-amp breaker consistently running for more than about 2 minutes continuously. I upgraded when I saw the IR at Sears and it was "damaged". Something had fallen in the warehouse on the top of the little mushroom-shaped air cleaner top, and it was sitting cockeyed, and the fan grate was bent a little. They didn't want to sell it to me - it was crated up to go back to IR, but I told them I'd take it for parts, (and they had just stopped selling IR for some reason.)

Anyhow, after talking to two managers and signing a warranty waiver, they sold it to me for $400 for "parts", just glad to have it out of their hair.

I hammered the cleaner top back into level, and it's been running strong ever since, powering the whole shop, a media blaster, DAs, and the venturi on the vacuum press.

So, it's taken some abuse, obviously, and runs strong. The CH is...I think it's in the garage somewhere. Want it?

[Jim Becker]

Larry.........which IR do u have?
I am looking at the SS3L3 at Tractor Supply. 3 HP 240v, around 11 CFM.

That's the one I have in my shop...also from Tractor Supply, although I caught a sale a few years ago and got it for $499. It's been an outstanding machine!

[dale rex]

thanks Jim........ its always helpful to get advice from someone that actually has what you are interested in buying. I am most likely going to get the SS3L3 from Tractor Supply. Hopefully I can catch a sale like you did! BTW did you pipe yours in? or just run rubber hose?

[Chris Leverett]

Pipe it in if you can, that way you will be able to put a dryer, regulator, etc, on your hard line inside. You wont have to walk outside or wherever your comp. is to adjust your air. Also if you put your filter as far as possible from your compressor the air will cool more helping the filter to work better because the moisture will begin to condense.
HTH, Chris

[dale rex]

Thanks Chris........what kind of components did you get and where did you buy them for yours? I see all that stuff at Harbor Freight:o . Is there info somewhere that I can reference for the design and piping? i.e. what kind and size pipe do I use? Should the pipe be sloped like drain pipe for drainage? What type of quick disconnect is used at the end of the pipe, is it soldered on or attached to threaded fitting?

[Larry Nall]

Lowes is selling the Kobaly. Who makes the Husky that Home Depot is selling?

[dale rex]

I think they are both made by Campbell Hausfeld.

[Jim Becker]

My unit is "piped in" with type L copper (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20030).

[dale rex]

Wow Jim, nice job! I probably wont get quite that involved with mine(although you never know what happens once you get something like this started). I never heard of an auto drain system like that before. What do they cost? Is the manual drain under the compressor in that tiny opening betweent the legs? How the heck are you supposed to get your hand in there? Im probably gonna start with hoses and eventually set up a pipe system. I guess the IR compressor doesnt come with a regulator? If I have any more questions I know who to come to! LOL

[Chris Leverett]

You can use metal threaded pipe, copper pipe, and many people have used schedule 40 pvc which can handle over 400 psi, or at least that is what is stamped on the pipe. I have read a report about pvc exploding though so you may not want it ran in this pipe where it is exposed. I ran mine in 3/4 pvc and its been fine for years, but I did it before I read that. You will want a large pipe to run from your compressor to your hookup, probably 1/2-3/4". Most of your hoses will only be 1/4 or 3/8 I know, but you should at least use big supply line where you can, hence the big pipe. After hooking on your regulator and filter you will simply need a female quick connect, to hook up your hoses, etc. Or you could permenantly thread your hose onto your regulator and put the quick connect onto the end of your hose. Its not really neccessary to slope your pipe.
HTH, Chris

[Jim Becker]

Chris, PVC is not rated for compressed gasses...the PSI rating on the side is for liquids which do not compress. PVC should not be used for air systems.

Dale, the autodrain I got was a steal off EBAY for about $70. It's an IR also. But the solution for the drain on the bottom regardless is to extend it out to where you can get to it...a few simple 1/4" NPT fittings and a ball valve is all you need.

[dale rex]

thanks Jim and Chris for the helpful advice. I gotta start coming here more often again........been hanging out at another forum lately(wont name any names). Gotta come back to the Creek again.:)

Thanks again guys, I always appreciate the friendly advice here:D

(PS Jim we are almost neighbors, im in northern Lehigh County, near the turnpike tunnel.)

[Chris Leverett]

Chris, PVC is not rated for compressed gasses...the PSI rating on the side is for liquids which do not compress. PVC should not be used for air systems.
I did not know that, scratch what I said about pvc. However you will find it being used all over the place for just that purpose.
Chris

[Allen Bookout]

You can use metal threaded pipe, **************************** Its not really neccessary to slope your pipe.
HTH, Chris

If you use threaded pipe it is recommended that you use black pipe and not galvanized due to possible contamination from the flaking of the galvanized material inside the pipe as time goes on.

It may not be necessary to slope the pipe but highly recommended, especially if you are using the air for spraying.

[Curt Harms]

Chris, PVC is not rated for compressed gasses...the PSI rating on the side is for liquids which do not compress. PVC should not be used for air systems.

Dale, the autodrain I got was a steal off EBAY for about $70. It's an IR also. But the solution for the drain on the bottom regardless is to extend it out to where you can get to it...a few simple 1/4" NPT fittings and a ball valve is all you need.

I did what Jim suggests on my horizontal C-H compressor-street ell out of the tank, 1/4" nipple about a foot long and ball valve at the front under the tank. Easy to reach and water that does condense out will be sitting in the nipple, not in the bottom of the tank. It's easier to replace the nipple than it is to replace the tank. Of course if You wait until the nipple is full and backed up into the tank that benefit goes away. I would think if You just crack the ball valve every 15 minutes or so of operation that should be fine. I've never gotten more than a tablespoon full of water out of my drain.

HTH

Curt

[Jim Becker]

That's correct, Curt. As long as you're dumping the moisture with reasonable frequency, you're doing the tank a favor. I don't even bother with the bucket anymore, either...so little comes out when the system cycles that the floor doesn't even get damp. But back to your point...extending the drain is something I think everyone should do for two reasons: 1) because it makes it easier to drain the tank and 2) because the little valve they always put on the compressors are pains to operate and like to break off way too easily over time...

[Curt Harms]

<snip>2) because the little valve they always put on the compressors are pains to operate and like to break off way too easily over time...

Precisely!

[Bill White]

MIne is a Craftsman I bought in 1976 to paint a car. Twin cyls., Leeson motor, 10 gal tank. Put a regulator spring, starter cap., keep the tank drained, and the oil changed. The darned thing won't quit, but then there was a time when you could buy stuff that lasted.
Bill

[Al Willits]

I have 25+ years on my IR and it has seen a lot of use, used it to paint cars and bikes, build trailers, auto and motorcycle engine rebuilding for drag racing, ran die grinders, DA's and anything else I could get to run off of air, it has performed flawlessly, not so with friends who have went the cheaper route.
I also have mind piped with 3/4" pipe and a flexible hose from the compressor to the piping to reduce noise and stress, also makes the compressor movable.

Also added several hundred dollars worth of comm grade filters and separators and drip tee's at each outlet.

Kinda depends on what your gonna use the air for, but I found it was better to be overbuilt than have to go back and do it over.

Nothing worse than having a bit of moisture come out of your spray gun on the last of many coats of material.

Go look at how some of the body shops in your area have theirs set up, and what they use for filters and such.

Good luck either way.

Al

[Dennis Peacock]

Go with an IR compressor.

I've had 3 compressors over the past many years of woodworking.
Most "brands" that are sold in the big box stores are all made by CH. Some will swear by CH products, but I've gone through 2 of their compressors to include one of their "Pro Series" top end compressors. One was a problem from day 1 and to get it fixed under warranty? I was told to package it up and take it to the local repair center!!! One hours drive...one way!!!! I took it back to the store.

I broke down and bought an IR compressor.
1. It's MUCH more quality than any other compressor it's size.
2. It's a LOT more quiet running than a CH compressor of it's size.
3. I've ran this compressor like a dog and it keeps on going like it was "born" to do what it does.
Needless to say....that after dealing with compressor problems and trying to get warranty service? The repair service said that they would repair over 200 CH compressors per year and repairs for an IR compressor were in the single digit count.....3 per year as an average per the service center.
After talking at length with the Warranty Service Center....I went and purchased the IR compressor and never looked back.

[dale rex]

good info Dennis.........I now have my mind made up. Ingersoll Rand all the way. SS3L3, 3 HP, 60 gal upright tank. Now i gotta go find a good deal on one.:)

[Jim Becker]

Dale, if you can't find it for less than about $575 locally including any tax, Northern Tool has it for about that with free shipping. But hit up your local Tractor Supply manager and see if you can work a deal...they do put it on sale occasionally for something like $525 or so.

[Al Willits]

Not sure about how the air intake is set up on that compressor, but before I added to the front of the garage, I had my intake piped out thought the wall and used a garden tractor style air cleaner with a automotive type air filter on it.
If the neighbors aren't to close so the noise bothers them, you can quiet the compressor noise inside by quite a bit.

If your interested I can try and take a picture of what I did, the intake in inside now as I don't run the comp as much as I used to, but you can see how I fabricated it.

When spraying, it also slightly pressurizes the shop and that helps to change the air.

Al

[dale rex]

Found a place locally that sells industrial air compressor equipment, that deals in IR equipment. They gave me a price that is the same as Tractor Supply, and they include free delivery too! Gonna check them out a little closer, and talk to them about the warranty on the compressor. I like free delivery alot............:o , especially on items over 200 lbs.:D

[Bill Wyko]

I recently replaced my compressor and found that the "V" cylinder models are much louder. If you are going to be in the same room with it I'd go with one that has the cylinders side by side IMHO.:)

[Tim Marks]

If you use threaded pipe it is recommended that you use black pipe and not galvanized due to possible contamination from the flaking of the galvanized material inside the pipe as time goes on.

Galvanized pipe is only galvanized on the outside, looks like black iron pipe from the inside.

[Don Robert]

About 2 years ago, I bought the CH (Lowes version). Just after the warranty ran out, the unloader value quit working. Replaced that. In a few months the motor went kaput. If I had it to do over, I would go the IR route. What ever you get, put it on a circuit that has enough capacity and big enough wire size to tolerate the starting current pull. I CH repairman suggested that I put the machine on a 30 amp circuit (w/10 gage wire) since I continued to have problems. It's been working fine since.

Also, I agree with the person who said NOT TO USE PVC piping!

[Josiah Bartlett]

Another option is to find a used Quincy locally.
They have pressure oil lubrication like a car, and last longer than anything- they are rated for continuous duty on the motor and compressor.

[dale rex]

I think the IR compressor I am going to purchase runs at 15 amps, 240 volts. Wouldnt a 20 amp circuit with 12 g wire be sufficient? What you are saying is that the current draw at startup is greater than a 20 amp circuit can handle and that I should step up to 10 g wire and a 30 amp circuit? Just curious about this because I might run the wire and hook up the circuit before I actually purchase the compressor.:)

[Jim Becker]

Mine is on a 20 amp circuit, Rex. I don't ever install 15 amp circuits in the shop. It doesn't need 30 amps.

[Don Robert]

I thought so on mine, originally. The compressor motor was rated at about 14 amps (the HP ratings on these units are usually bogus). But after a year it started flipping the circuit breaker on start-up. It soon burned the points in the centrifugal start switch. After the second motor did the same thing, I had a service man take a look at every thing. He couldn't find any thing wrong. A clamp on ammeter showed it drawing only about 14 amps. After conferring with his boss, he suggested that I try running it on a 30 amp circuit or at least 10 gage wire so that the line drop on start up was not as great. I did and have had no problem since. If I were you, I would run 10 gage wire just in case you wanted/needed to have the capacity later. The incremental cost is very small and you have future reserve. Wish I had done this with all my 220v/20amp/12 gage circuits.

[Charley Preston]

I live in Alaska, and I'm used to items being a *bit* more expensive up here, but about the cheapest I could find a 60 gal 3hp IR compressor is $1,200 ON SALE! Where are you guys finding them for under $600??

[Jim Becker]

Charley, Northern Tool and Tractor Supply both sell the 3hp 60 gallon unit for under $600. I paid about $500 for mine on sale from Tractor Supply a few years ago. NT has free shipping on them (drop shipped from IR), but I don't know if it would apply to Alaska or not. There are sometimes disclaimers for AK and HI.

[dale rex]

Tractor Supply has them locally for $575. Northern Tools has them for around the same price with free shipping. (most likely free to the 48 contiguous states, not including Hawaii and Alaska.:( I could be wrong though, it might pay to check it out with Northern.

[Jim Kountz]

Back to the piping of air in the shop, a cheap alternative that is safe quick and easy is to just simply use air hose. You can rout it easy, mount it to the wall or ceiling and its cheap and safe. You can buy T's and three ways to send the air all over the shop and still install valves, filters and disconnects where they are needed. I hung mine from the ceiling with conduit straps. Maybe not the most attractive thing you can use but effective!

Jim

[Ray Knight]

This issue of plastic pipe for air compressors is discussed to death in fori (fora, forum, fori) related to my other hobby, auto restoration. There are tons of guys who have used plastic for years with no problem, It DOES NOT meet any current industrial safety code. The consensus is that the problem is possible shattering if impacted. So if you can install it and know that nothing is going to hit it, you are probably safe. Air pressure alone ain't going to blow it up, but if you hit it shards can go everywhere. I had planned to use it, but changed my mind. Ray Knight

[Al Willits]

"""""""
This issue of plastic pipe for air compressors is discussed to death in fori (fora, forum, fori) related to my other hobby, auto restoration. There are tons of guys who have used plastic for years with no problem, It DOES NOT meet any current industrial safety code
"""""

I used to run a air shifter on the drag bike I ran, it needed between 150 and 165 psi, and I used a PVC tank mounted on the frame of the bike, one afternoon the end cap blew out, not where it was glued, but the actual cap broke and sent pieces flying off.
This was the thicker walled PVC also.

I realize 165 is more than most run in their air systems, but many I know run at least 120-130, and that's close enough for me.

I have never had pipe or copper break, nor send pieces flying off, do what ya want, but I would never use PVC for a air line.

Just a thought...

Al

[Jim Becker]

The pressure ratings on the PVC are for liquids, not compressed gases, and when you do have an incident, you have a whole lot more confined product that is let loose...explosively since when the PVC fails it tends to shatter. But yes, there are plenty of threads here and elsewhere that discuss that subject in depth...and with passion at times... ;)

[dale rex]

I plan on using either copper pipe or just plain old air hoses. Depends on my budget and time constraints . One thread recommended hanging the air hose from the rafters in a similar fashion to installing copper pipe.

[Jim Kountz]

This issue of plastic pipe for air compressors is discussed to death in fori (fora, forum, fori) related to my other hobby, auto restoration. There are tons of guys who have used plastic

I hear ya Ray, I read all the bad reports on using PVC when I was piping my shop and it scared the h*ll out of me, thats why I used the air hoses. Someday I may get around to replacing it with iron but for right now I dont use all that much air in the shop so the hoses work great for the time being.