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View Full Version : Hardwood Floor - Molding Removal ????



Bob Moyer
08-17-2007, 7:28 AM
What is the best way to remove the molding prior to installing hardwood floors, after I remove the carpeting, it was suggested that I do not need to remove the molding. However, I would rather remove it and install it properly.

Lou Ferrarini
08-17-2007, 8:49 AM
The way I do it is to slide a 1" flexible steel putty knife between the wall and the moulding, pry the moulding out from the wall carefully, then slide a flat pry bar in the gap and carefully pry the moulding away from the wall. Start at one corner and work your way down the wall. Put a piece of 1/4" ply between the wall and pry bar so you don't damage the wall.

This is what I mean by a flat pry bar:

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-515-12-inch-Wonderbar-Pry/dp/B00002X1XT/ref=sr_1_5/102-5987469-8697732?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1187354867&sr=1-5

Dan Clark
08-17-2007, 10:18 AM
What is the best way to remove the molding prior to installing hardwood floors, after I remove the carpeting, it was suggested that I do not need to remove the molding. However, I would rather remove it and install it properly.
Bob,

There are couple of issues here...

Regarding the best tool to remove moldings, a Japanese pry bar or "Cats Paw" would be better. Here's one style: http://www.amazon.com/Shark-21-2220-8-Inch-Prybar-Puller/dp/B0000224TX/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-0641735-2856950?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1187359460&sr=1-1 on Amazon. You can also get these at Homers.

There's another style that is similar to the one above, but they have two 90 degree ends - one for "prying" and one for nail pulling. These are very nice because you can tap the flat "pry" end under the molding and then rap the opposite end to pull the molding away from the wall without pressing against the paint or drywall.

I'd recommend against using a Wonderbar because the "pry" end is too thick. The thin prybars are specifically made for pulling moldings.

Regarding the molding, if you're thinking about reusing the molding, that may be difficult. The molding can be damaged by pull-through nails or cracks while removing it.

Edit: I attached a pic of four of my pry bars. The first and third from the top have been used a lot.

As you can see, the bottom one is a standard Wonderbar type. Looks new doesn't it? It's three years old. It doesn't get much use.

The second from the top is the one that I referred to above. It's only about two weeks old, but I like it far better for removing molding. Just tap in the flat end under the molding and then smack the opposite end away from the wall. Off comes the molding with no damage to the wall.

Good luck with your project.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., I have two of the Wonderbar pry bars and four of the cats paw styles. I bought the cats paws AFTER buying the Wonderbars because the Wonderbars weren't small enough.

Greg Cole
08-17-2007, 10:25 AM
I've had better luck re-using molding etc as follows:
1) run a knife along the top of the molding to make sure the wall paint is "gluing" the molding to the sheet rock.
2) use a putty knife or scraper to start a gap wide enough for one of the previously mentioned thin pry bars & definately use a backer for the prying.
3) break the molding free along it's length & then completely remove from the wall
4) pull any nails left in the molding through from the backside

Then again, that's only something I do for paint grade stuff. If it's stain grade, I'd just tear it out and install new.

$0.02 donation.

Greg

Sam Shank
08-17-2007, 11:37 AM
What everyone else said, and I use a 12" taping knife to get behind the molding once it's started. Then you can use that as a backer for your myriad prybars to not mark the wallboard. Once you get started, it tends to go easily most of the time.

Pay attention to corners - most will probably be coped. Be sure to start with the one that is coped first.

Pull the nails out of the back, and then you won't have to re-fill the holes with putty.

Craig Coney
08-19-2007, 12:40 AM
I use a 5 in1 painters tool. It has a small hook with a blade that I use to cut the caulk away from the wall. Then I put it behind the trim and pull it off. Works like a champ. Then I use vise grips with a scrap peice of wood to pull out the nails.