Router Table or Woodrat?

[Henry Z Kaczmarczyk]

If you had your choice would you get a Router table or a woodrat routing system?

Please explain your reasons why.

thanks Henry

[Gary Curtis]

I've got both. But in first acquiring a WoodRat, my need for a router is simplified. With no lift, and just using the Tablesaw extension, if brought the cost down to less than $350, including the Milwaukee router and a WoodHaven fence.

It is easier to explain why I need a router table, because that takes less words. Large panels such as plywood (edge trimming and such), very long boards (jointing edges, and maybe profiling.

When I looked at the full Jessem system, the costs - not including a router - were over $1200.

At my first session with the WoodRat, I cut 32 sliding dovetails and trenches in about 4.5 hours. Starting with no knowledge. WoodRats have gotten even better with options for DRO (digital readout). My need for the machine was simple ---- joints. Nothing more. Two other criteria were: a) I hate clutter, and the WoodRat doesn't require drawers full of fiddly parts. And b), by mounting on the wall, there is no footprint on the floor taking up valuable shop space.

Another option is the Multi-router, but that is a $2500 tool. What it lacks is dust collection.

Gary Curtis:)

[Henry Z Kaczmarczyk]

Gary, the video for the Woodrat was impresive. I thought that it would be easier for making dovetails, but 4+ hours for 32 dovetails is a bit much.
I have a festool vs600 for dovetails and it only takes me 20 min to make a drawer.

I like the idea of being able to create M & T joints with the woodrat.

I want the ability to machine larger boards.

Thanks for the advice

[Ed Falis]

But Gary wasn't talking about dovetail joints, which are a lot faster. He was talking about sliding dovetails as a replacement for tongue & groove, presumably in a carcass side or something.

My experience with the rat and table seems similar to his, as are my uses of each. I do profiles with both. In fact right now I have the table set up to do the convex profile, and the rat to do the concave with the Burgess edge set - nice to have it all ready to go. The concave profile is put on the carcass parts of new kitchen cabinets, so they are reasonably sized panels.

[Gary Curtis]

Thanks Ed. The sliding dovetail trenches were in 4x4 Douglas Fir legs for workbenches. The tails were cut on the end of the 2x6 Aprons and Stretchers which mated with these.

The simple task of handling that lumber wore me out. Clamping it and accurately positioning the wood required a lot of time. Perhaps now that I know the machine I could do the same job in 3 hours. But those joints are tight and didn't require glue. A tight fit required accuracy down to about .002", as I found out through testing.

Gary Curtis