cross-cutting boards to equal length by hand

[Raymond Stanley]

For those of you that crosscut with handsaws, how do you get two boards to be exactly the same length...for example building a mitered carcase?

The essential question really is how do you mark it?

One thing I've tried is to shoot one end of boards, then line them up and knife the line across both of them at the same time using a square...although that can be more difficult with wider boards.

I've also used a story stick.

After marking, I would cut close and then shoot to the line...I suppose others would just be able to cut right on the line.

Both of these methods have worked "so-so" for me. Just curious if anybody else has any ideas.

For those with table saws, you are lucky enough to just use the darn fence!


Thanks!
- Ray, who is getting very excited about getting to his first project that is not another woodworking apparatus!

[Eric Hartunian]

I can generally follow a line ok, but I have trouble keeping the cut square to the face of the board. This means I need to shoot the end, which of course makes it shorter than the other board I marked from.
I am just trying to convince myself and others that lopsided furniture is the wave of the future...
Eric

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/26712331.jpg

I set my miter box up on a long cutoff table and use a stop. Quick. Square. Plumb. That's why we have them.

[Pam Niedermayer]

I cut one piece, then use that piece to knife subsequent pieces. I use a single bevel knife with the bevel to the edge of the first piece, which gives a more exact marking than putting the flat side to the edge. Then I saw using Japanese cross and/or ryoba.

Pam

[Mike K Wenzloff]

On really long boards, like Bob I use a miter box and stops. For a typical rail and stile of a cabinet, I pretty much do exactly as Pam does. When so doing, I typically saw using board jacks or a saw hook placed on the bench. For furniture I always shoot to a knifed line--but the more accurately I saw can make a difference between a couple swipes and 10.

If unsure of your sawing abilities, and whether you tend to under or over cut the line, plan on it if doing an important cut and shoot to a knifed line. But do keep practicing so you can cut more accurately.

Take care, Mike

[James Mittlefehldt]

For long boards I have two bench hooks about three inches wide and that go about fifteen inches into the bench top. As the long board becomes shorter I just move the bench hooks along the bench top.

I measure the first board, then after that one is cut I put away the rule or tape and use the first piece as my pattern, that way if it is a little off the rest will be off the same.

Just like what Pam says except I ususally pencil it, and I use a 14" back saw.

[John Schreiber]

I generally cut a bit long and use a sharp plane to get everything exact.

[Mark Singer]

The method that Pam uses is the same that I use. That way all the boards should match. I use the same technique with a cabinet saw and sled. A miter saw as Bob suggested removes a lot of variables...the saw will cut straight and plumb......a bit more of a challenge is the bench hook and relax and let the saw move freely....

[Raymond Stanley]

Thanks for all the great ideas, everybody.
Never realized till now how a stop and a miter box works the same as a fence on a tablesaw!
I love SMC, and I've got a soft spot for Neanderthal Haven :)
-Ray

[Derek Cohen]

Another way is to clamp both boards together and cut them at the same time. This is even easier if you use a mitre box.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bob Smalser]

For a furniture project, we used to use carts and move the stock on them from station to station in sequence, with like parts stacked atop each other.

From rough stock to layout table to select and chalk out pieces by selecting grain...then to the cutoff table for rough cutting to length....then to the jointer and layup table to make rough-cut panels....while that glue was curing back to the resaw, planer and jointer for all the frame parts....then to the TS and jointer to finish rip frame parts and cut them to length.....then the panels through the planer....etc.

Planning your work to do all like stock operations together as much as possible and the use of stops for cutoffs and one fence setting for rips is what provides precision long before you ever get to cutting joints. Try to make your marks on only the first workpiece and let your tool setup do the remainder. Whether doing the grunt work by hand or machine, perfectly dimensioned stock is 90% of what it takes to cut accurate joints.

The parts you have to cut one at a time for whatever reason, you match to the first part you cut by feel after the rip and cutoff. Your fingers can feel a tad finer than a 64th, which is a fair tolerance in stock dimensioning. If you get one shy of the first part, you have to plane them down to match, and clamping them together to do it is quickest.

Matching the sides of a centerboard case:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6791366/85653808.jpg

The finished case:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/139932221.jpg

[Andrew Homan]

Outstanding thread -- thanks for posting the question, Raymond, and for the answers to everyone else.

-Andy

[Charles Stanford]

Without using a miter box, and noting that most saw cuts should be dressed with a plane, simply mark a board from one already the length you need. Saw and leave most of the sharp pencil line (I like 2H pencils). Plane the endgrain with a block plane to bring to finished length. Should be two whiskers to a whisker and a half to remove. Not much.