Recommendations 1/4 or 5/16 Mortise Chisel

[Edward P. Surowiec]

I'm a newbe and plan to make window sashes for a garden shed. I plan to use 6/4 stock, poplar or white pine if I can get it. Lie-Nielsen offer 1/4 and 5/16 Mortise chisels and Two Cherry has 1/4 chisel.
Your recommendations and comments regarding choice of tools and materials will be appreciated.
Thanks
Ed

[David Weaver]

I have the 5/16th mortise chisel from LN, and can recommend it if you don't mind spending the money, and you're looking to try it out.

That said, a mortise chisel is a simple animal, and you can get fine old chisels that will do the trick - and in my limited experience using the chisels I have, bigger makes it easier to use/align the chisel if you're actually using it to chop out mortises. They can also be had for a fraction of new chisel prices.

[James Mittlefehldt]

Don't know what tools you have but a plough plane would be quicker to do that job rather than a mortise chisel, or a wooden plane for cutting the groove half of a tongue and groove joint would also do well, and are readily available in antique stores and such.

Having said that though David is right mortice chisels can be had often much cheaper than new. I have the Hirsch chisels sold by Lee Valley and they are also good, though the handles are rather massive.

[David Weaver]

Woops - apologies for not reading the whole post. James is right - a plow plane would be quicker, and because of that, you'll likely end up with much better results. I have cut grooves/dadoes with chisels before, but it takes so long to make them nice that you're working against your own patience to get good results. I would imagine the chisel experts on here could get one that was constant depth, but my results were probably not quite as consistent.

Check for plow planes in the width you want - if you haven't used one before, you'll be surprised how easy they are to use and get good results.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Edward,

My assumption is the mortise chisel is for the mortises of the dividers, correct? I would typically use my 1/4" or 3/16" sash mortise chisel with a fairly low bevel. Even with the width of stock you mention, after the rebate for the glass in both the frame and the dividers, the stock becomes much thinner. 5/16" and above for that stock might be a touch too thick a chisel.

The LN are technically sash mortise chisels, as are the Sorby. I have the Sorby as I prefer tang chisels for some unkown reason. Perhaps I have had bad luck with socket chisels coming loose at the odd moments.

For the rebate, if you do not have a sash plow, just make your widths very consistent and use anything capable of cutting the rebate, such as a moving fillister (a skew-bladed wood plane) or something like the Stanley #78/Record 778.

Take care, Mike

[lowell holmes]

If the mortises are in the stiles, I'd think 3/8" or 1/2" chisels would be preferred. I have the 1/4 and 3/8 LN mortice chisels. I am very happy with them. I would also consider the Ray Iles pig sticker chisels if buying them today.
If in the market for a plow plane, don't overlook the moderately priced one that Japan Woodworker has. I have one and I'm suprised at how good it is.

[Carl Crout]

I have the 1/4" Henry Taylor.

[Andrew Swartz]

I have the LN sash-style mortise chisels. They are great. I've noticed that the LN chisels leave a much cleaner mortise than others I've tried (primarily old obmc and new obmc). The edges of the chisels are sharp and parallel the full length of the chisel. As the cutting edge is chopping out the mortise, the edges appear to scrape the sides clean. Of course, I'm not sure it makes a big difference when it comes to the strength of the joint.

[Edward P. Surowiec]

Thank you all for your reply. I should have been more specific about my intended use of the mortise chisel. The window sashes need to be robust since they will be mounted on hinges and pivot out. So I plan to make the mating corners of the stile and rail a full mortise joint.

I have been looking for used chisels but no luck so far.

Thanks again.
Ed;)

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Makes a bit of a difference--thanks for the info, Edward.

Most of the ones I have made, both either modern and vintage homes were either DT'd together at the corners or simply bridle joints. Some have been M&T'd. If I were M&T'ing them, I would go with around the 1/3 mark of the final thickness of the sash frame.

Walt Quadrato at Brass City has vintage oval bolstered mortise (OBM) chisels. Other than him, it's typically eBay or other dealers.

For new, Tools for Working Wood has the best OBM types, by Ray Iles that Andrew is most likely refering to. The Best Things has the Sorby (I think Woodcraft does as well). Of course, LN sells theirs.

Take care, Mike

Take care, Mike

[Bill Houghton]

I always had the impression that it was an inside wood, not well suited for exposure to the weather. You might do a little research - nothing quite so disappointing as spending hours building something and having it rot out in the first two years.

[Edward P. Surowiec]

Thanks Bill, I'll check the wood out. Any suggestions for 6/4 stock?
Ed

[lowell holmes]

White oak is a good outdoor wood. I might consider western red cedar. I've made gates from western red cedar. It comes rough, but a little planing will take care of that. Cedar saw dust can be an irritant (sp?).