frame & flat 1/4" panel cabinet doors. Tips and router bit recommendations please!

[Matt Johnson]

I am going to start building new kitchen cabinets for my house. I want to build my doors using Oak frames and 1/4" oak veneer panels. The centered panel looks Ok but I would like a more recessed look. I found a picure of what I want on the cover of a book (Danny Proulx's Cabinet Doors and Drawers) however there is no directions in the book on how to make that particular door style. It looks like the panel is recessed more than a 1/4" and the inside of the frame has a nice (roman ogee?) profile.

I work on the side for a cabinet maker so building the cabinets won't be too hard. However he orders all of his doors so I have no experience making doors. Is there a matched bit set that will work for me? What size slot does a raised panel bit set cut for the panel? Thank you!

[Jim Nardi]

It says on page 58 it's loosely covered in 2 chapters. If that's the style of door you want to make on page 58 it's a cope and stick style door with a flat panel. You pick the profile in a matched set of cope and stick doors and go to town. On page 68. That books looks simple but all the answers are inside of it. If you can shoot a coat of finish on the panels before you install them all the easier. Doors for kitchens are easier to buy and cheaper in most cases.

[Josiah Bartlett]

http://lh4.google.com/josiahtheengineer/RpMjafwfq0I/AAAAAAAAADc/Cv9GUyMfVJU/s288/builtin.jpg
http://picasaweb.google.com/josiahtheengineer/Projects/photo#5085447342339894082I've made a number of cope/stick (paneled) doors myself, and I've experimented with differing methods. I own two sets of pretty expensive cope/stick (or rail/stile) router sets, a shaper head, and several panel raising sets. The rail/stiles are pretty easy to get nice with some practice, but I've gotten really picky about my panels. My current method is to not even use the router bit and raise them with the table saw. I made a sled that slides on the rip fence and I clamp the panel to it, tilt the blade, and use it to raise the panels. Using the saw makes it easy to make nice panels out of thin stock. The router bits really only work well on a specific stock thickness.

Another nice, easy way to make panels is to use the thin wainscotting material from your millwork supplier. It drops right into the groove cut by the stile cutter and looks good if that is your style.

If you can see them, the doors on the picture I posted were made with a cheapo Harbor Freight rail/stile set and turned out just fine. They cost me about $10 a piece to make.

The biggest thing you need is a nice flat surface to clamp them on while the glue dries, otherwise the doors come out warped.
<img src="http://lh4.google.com/josiahtheengineer/RpMjafwfq0I/AAAAAAAAADc/Cv9GUyMfVJU/s288/builtin.jpg">

[Matt Meiser]

Are you using plywood panels? If so, you'll need the cutter to be sized properly. I just (as in just sprayed the final coat of finish this morning) finished a set of doors where I used 1/4" ply for the panels. Terry Hatfield recommend a bit set that had a 5.2mm cutter. That set was from Woodline USA and was a nice set. However, it made plain shaker-style doors. You might check places like Woodline USA, MLCS, and Hartville Tool to see what you can find in the way of profiles. Several years ago I made an entertainment center that has similar doors which I made completely on the table saw. The router bit set was much quicker.

[frank shic]

Another vote for raising the panels on the tablesaw with a sled. ONE pass versus 5-6 passes with a rather MEAN-looking, finger-chewing, dust-spewing raised panel router bit! Unless you want a curved profile, of course...

[Matt Johnson]

I guess I should read the book a little more. So what I want is cope and stick bit set. Do all stick bits cut a 1/4" slot? Can I get a matched set that cuts the slot at 5.2mm or will the plywood fit tight in the 1/4" slot? I will check out the Woodline USA and others Matt suggested. I also found some sources say to glue the plywood in the the slots and others say not to. What would you suggest?

I do plan on using 1/4" oak plywood for the panels. I would rather have raised panel doors but I am on a tight budget. Plywood panels will save me some money and time over solid wood.

Frank, the book I mentioned does show ways of making curved (coved)raised panels on the table saw if you're interested.

Thanks for the help and if you have any more suggestions please let me know.

[glenn bradley]

I guess I should read the book a little more. So what I want is cope and stick bit set. Do all stick bits cut a 1/4" slot? Can I get a matched set that cuts the slot at 5.2mm or will the plywood fit tight in the 1/4" slot? I will check out the Woodline USA and others Matt suggested. I also found some sources say to glue the plywood in the the slots and others say not to. What would you suggest?

I do plan on using 1/4" oak plywood for the panels. I would rather have raised panel doors but I am on a tight budget. Plywood panels will save me some money and time over solid wood.

Frank, the book I mentioned does show ways of making curved (coved)raised panels on the table saw if you're interested.

Thanks for the help and if you have any more suggestions please let me know.

Freud and Amana both make rail and stile sets that use shims to allow adjustments. Here's some of Freuds (there are others):

http://www.justfreud.com/rail-stile_bit_sets.htm

And Amana:

http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/instile-cabinetdoor-bits.html

P.s. I don't get commision from anybody :p

[frank shic]

matt, this is the technique that i'm talking about:

http://home.earthlink.net/~us71na/raisedpanel.html

you see? just one pass and the edge is done! woohoo!!! :D

[Matt Johnson]

I guess I should read the book a little more. So what I want is cope and stick bit set. Do all stick bits cut a 1/4" slot? Can I get a matched set that cuts the slot at 5.2mm or will the plywood fit tight in the 1/4" slot? I will check out the Woodline USA and others Matt suggested. I also found some sources say to glue the plywood in the the slots and others say not to. What would you suggest?

I do plan on using 1/4" oak plywood for the panels. I would rather have raised panel doors but I am on a tight budget. Plywood panels will save me some money and time over solid wood.

Frank, the book I mentioned does show a ways of making curved (coved)raised panels on the table saw if you're interested.

Thanks for the help and if you have any more suggestions please let me know.

[J.R. Rutter]

Get yourself some MDF core A1 oak veneer for the panels. It is very close to a true 1/4" and has more heft than the thinner plywood. Several suppliers here near Seattle carry it, so I imagine it can be had elsewhere. One of your cabinet shop guy's suppliers should have it.

Then you can use any old router bit set. For a single project, an inexpensive set should work fine once it is dialed in.

[Matt Meiser]

If you use any veneer core sheet good, make sure you use a plain sliced face so it looks like real wood. The rotary sliced oak can be pretty wierd in spots. You'll pay dearly for it though. I needed 1 sheet at $50/sheet. Probably cheaper than solid wood though.

Frank, I can't get the link to work. I think I know what technque you are talking about, and I've used that for panels, but if I'm not mistaken he is talking about the frames. The reason I liked the bits for that over the table saw is that I didn't have to fiddle with the tenons. One pass on each end of each rail and they were perfect.

[Steve Clardy]

Stile & Rail Matched Sets for 7/32" Plywood http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1186937249_29612+81

[Matt Johnson]

I think I am going to buy the Amana 55436 set. I want a good bit set since I hope I will have more projects to use them on. Before I buy a set I will see what I can get the 1/4 MDF A1 core sheet for. I should only need two sheets to do all the panels.

I never knew there was a plain and rotary sliced veneer. I did get to tour a veneer plant for my Millwright class. I would have to guess they were making the rotary stuff, as the log was turning the veneer was being shaved off. It almost reminded me of the paper mill I work at.

[Matt Johnson]

Stile & Rail Matched Sets for 7/32" Plywood http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1186937249_29612+81




After looking at these Whiteside bits a few times I might change my mind. I like that the Whiteside have a 3/8" reveal over the Amana's 1/4". I'm not sure but I think the extra reveal would look better.

[Steve Clardy]

Matt. Keep in mind now, if you go with 1/4 MDF A1 core, that material is 1/4" thick, unlike 1/4" plywood, which is 7/32".

So you would need the standard rail and stiles bits that have the cutter for 1/4" material.

Listed in that same page that I provided the link too.
Steve:)

[Matt Johnson]

I don't think I will go with MDF. Oak veneer core looks ok to me. Some times there may be a funny looking side but I can put it on the inside of the door. I will check on the price of MDF and try to find a sample before I order any bit set.

When I do order a set I am going to get the Ogee style to match the CMT glass door panel bit set. That will be for my next project, a gun cabinet.;)

[Jeff Wright]

I just built a cabinet using the Amana bits touted by Lonnie Bird. They are a matched set of ogee profile bits adjustable for panels from about 7/32 to close to 1/2 thick. I am very pleased with the results. It took me the better part of an hour to set them up and learn how to use them, but the resulting frames required virtually no sanding. I find the weight of the ~ 1/4" panels sufficiently strong and weighty when assembled. Plus there will be less weight put on the hinges over the years. The rails and stiles in the photo are 2.25" wide; I think on my kitchen cabinets I will use 2.5" wide rails and stiles. I wanted a thicker frame and milled mine to .88 of an inch thick. I like the heftier look. The butt hinges are installed with mortises. See photos at

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=630316#post630316

[Mike Wilkins]

Hey Matt. Go to the nearest bookstore (Barnes & Noble, etc) and get a copy of the latest FineWoodworking magazine. Inside is an article describing exactly what you are looking to accomplish. I have used this method in past projects with great success. Being able to glue the panel inside the frame will give the door lots of strength.
Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Matt Johnson]

I will have to get that magazine.

As far as what bit set to get I have not made up my mind. I really don't see making many doors thicker than 3/4" in my future. However, it would be nice to have that option. The Whiteside set is half the price and I think the extra reveal would add more depth character to the doors.

[Ben Grunow]

I have used the TS method for raising panels and I didnt like it because it does not leave a flat edge to slip into the groove in the door frame. Seems like the panel bits are the way to go.

Maybe a vertical panel bit would be easier as they are way smaller in diameter allowing less passes at higher RPM.