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Ken Gartin
08-10-2007, 4:22 PM
Yesterday I got in on the $69 Unifence deal from Lowe's!

I have a Craftsman contractor TS (which I have to keep until I can manage to pull the trigger on a big-boy saw :D). It has the cast iron extension wings that are hollow with cross-bracing (see pic). The fence fits it great...

The problem is the extension wings. The fence gets caught up on the hollow areas and I have to lift it slightly until it clears them. Anyone know where I can find a cast-iron replacement wing (solid) for not a lot of $$$ (don't want to sink a lot into this saw but I don't mind a relatively cheap solution).

I may end up just making one out of MDF (laminated) but would prefer cast iron...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kgartin/0810070740-01.jpg

Lee Schierer
08-10-2007, 4:29 PM
I have the same extension wings on my saw, whihc is why I opted for the Beismeyer fence because I could relocate the glide far enough back that it would ride on teh back rib of hte extension and slide smoothly onto the table.

You might be able to find a local machine shop that can make you some inserts and mill the top surface of the webs so the glide on the Uni-fence has some place to ride. This would require you to take your wing off and go visit a few shops to show them what you need and get a price.

Ray Dockrey
08-10-2007, 5:32 PM
Can you take that extension out and just make a longer table board?

Mark Engel
08-10-2007, 6:27 PM
Can you take that extension out and just make a longer table board?
That was also going to be my suggestion.

Modifying or replacing your webbed extension wing is going to cost a lot more than just removing it and mounting your side table to the location vacated by the wing.

Ken Gartin
08-10-2007, 9:56 PM
Yeah, I'll probably just end up making a larger one from MDF (laminated) and replacing both wings.

I found a cast iron extension at Sears (with the help of SMRK at Woodnet Forums) for $69...I'm debating...

Jim Becker
08-11-2007, 4:17 PM
The obvious "first look" solution is to relocate the glide to where it will stay in contact with the rear edge of the open-web wings for full support. But that defeats one of the more important qualities of the UniFence...the ability to slide it back and forth (front to back) for safety during certain types of cuts.

$69 for a solid cast iron wing sounds like a pretty good deal to me...and you likely only need one.

Ken Gartin
08-12-2007, 12:26 AM
The obvious "first look" solution is to relocate the glide to where it will stay in contact with the rear edge of the open-web wings for full support. But that defeats one of the more important qualities of the UniFence...the ability to slide it back and forth (front to back) for safety during certain types of cuts.

The fence itself doesn't have any type of glide attached to it. It makes no contact with the table. The only glide is the one attached to the arm that the fence connects to.

But, anyway, I solved the problem!

Cut 3 pcs of 3/4" MDF to size and routed around support braces (1/2" deep). Works great!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kgartin/0811072310-00.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kgartin/0811072312-00.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kgartin/0811072311-00.jpg

frank shic
08-12-2007, 1:09 AM
nice job, ken. thanks for sharing your solution with the rest of us. now if you replace the left extension with a sliding table of some sort, you could really MAX out the usage of that unifence which now i'm beginning to consider... wonder if it would fit on a powermatic...

Jim Becker
08-12-2007, 9:26 AM
The fence itself doesn't have any type of glide attached to it. It makes no contact with the table. The only glide is the one attached to the arm that the fence connects to.

Interesting...the one I owned did have a small plastic pad on the bottom of the fence that contacted the table top.

At any rate, good solution.

Mike Null
08-12-2007, 9:50 AM
I wouldn't be too quick to get rid of the Craftsman. I had the same model and added the usual goodies--link belt, turned pulleys. metal cranks, WW2blade but I didn't have a Unifence.

I sold this saw and bought a Delta with the Unifence. To be honest, I long for my old Craftsman.

Ken Gartin
08-12-2007, 10:16 AM
I wouldn't be too quick to get rid of the Craftsman. I had the same model and added the usual goodies--link belt, turned pulleys. metal cranks, WW2blade but I didn't have a Unifence.

I sold this saw and bought a Delta with the Unifence. To be honest, I long for my old Craftsman.

Did the link belt and pulleys really make a huge difference? I'm looking at doing the same thing if it's worthwhile...

Jim Becker
08-12-2007, 10:33 AM
Did the link belt and pulleys really make a huge difference? I'm looking at doing the same thing if it's worthwhile...

Yea, they will--smooth running. And the PALS system will make alignment easier, too...

dan moran
08-12-2007, 11:11 AM
Did the link belt and pulleys really make a huge difference? I'm looking at doing the same thing if it's worthwhile...

i cant speak for pulleys, but the link belt works wonders...:eek:

i picked up an old(dont know how old exactly) craftsman 10" bench saw from a flea market for $60, put the link belt on it and it passes the nickel test.

Jason White
08-12-2007, 5:05 PM
You could save a few bucks and get some stamped-steel wings.

JW


Yesterday I got in on the $69 Unifence deal from Lowe's!

I have a Craftsman contractor TS (which I have to keep until I can manage to pull the trigger on a big-boy saw :D). It has the cast iron extension wings that are hollow with cross-bracing (see pic). The fence fits it great...

The problem is the extension wings. The fence gets caught up on the hollow areas and I have to lift it slightly until it clears them. Anyone know where I can find a cast-iron replacement wing (solid) for not a lot of $$$ (don't want to sink a lot into this saw but I don't mind a relatively cheap solution).

I may end up just making one out of MDF (laminated) but would prefer cast iron...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kgartin/0810070740-01.jpg

glenn bradley
08-12-2007, 5:17 PM
Yeah, I'll probably just end up making a larger one from MDF (laminated) and replacing both wings.

I found a cast iron extension at Sears (with the help of SMRK at Woodnet Forums) for $69...I'm debating...

I've got one 12" Sears extension wing I would sell for $30 as seen here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=43969

It has some discoloration that you can probably rub out but I think by the time it got shipped to FLA you'd be better off just picking one up at Sears.

glenn bradley
08-12-2007, 5:21 PM
Did the link belt and pulleys really make a huge difference? I'm looking at doing the same thing if it's worthwhile...

I put the pulleys and belt on my old C-man that my dad now has. There is a significant improvement. I also mounted the PALs to help with alignment. Best $20 I ever spent on that saw (the PALs).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=35938

Dwain Lambrigger
08-12-2007, 6:27 PM
Forgive my ignorance, but what are you speaking of? I am not sure what you mean with pulleys.

Thanks for any guidance.

Bart Leetch
08-12-2007, 8:29 PM
The pals go on the back trunnion of your contractors saw to help align you table-saw trunnion system.

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html

The machined pulleys are truer than cast pulleys so they run truer & the link belt doesn't take a set so it won't cause your motor to vibrate up & down.

To see what set is take a regular Vee belt & just set it on its side on a table & try to get it to form an oval shape anywhere but where it wants to.

Ken Gartin
08-12-2007, 9:13 PM
I've got one 12" Sears extension wing I would sell for $30 as seen here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=43969

It has some discoloration that you can probably rub out but I think by the time it got shipped to FLA you'd be better off just picking one up at Sears.

How much would you charge to ship to FL?