Precision Straight Edge

[Raymond Fries]

I want to buy a precision straight edge for aligning my router fence and for jointer when I get one. What is the best length to get?

12", 18", or 24"

Is longer better?

Thanks

[Kendall Landry]

Get one as long as your fence. Preferably aluminium. No rust but don't bang it too hard.

[Steven Wilson]

24" is nice to have around the shop but 48" or better for jointers and other long setups. LeeValley makes a pretty good one in aluminum

[Gary Keedwell]

Yes, longer is better. I have a precision ground steel 4' Starrett straightedge. It is probably over-kill but I was a machinist in my former life.;) I have had it 5 years and no rust.

Gary K.

[Don Inghram]

Just got the LV alum. straightedge. 53" I believe. Reasonably priced and nice quality as is all LV stuff. Although a shorter one may have been handier for some machinery stuff, I thought the long one would be handier in the long run for projects, etc. Nice to have a reference in the shop, I've been wanting one for a long time.

[Bruce Page]

Another vote for the alum Lee Valley. I checked mine out against the table of my milling machine, as near as I could tell it was dead flat.

[Gary Keedwell]

Another vote for the alum Lee Valley. I checked mine out against the table of my milling machine, as near as I could tell it was dead flat.
Which one was you using for reference? I think I'd trust a certified straight edge before a milling machine. But that is only me:rolleyes:

Gary K.

[Tom Veatch]

...

Is longer better?

...

Not always, and price goes up exponentially with length. Anything over about 3 or 4 feet will cost a LOT more than the added benefit unless you have extraordinary requirements. I've yet to have a need for a PRECISION straight edge that my 3' Starrett can't handle.

[Gary Keedwell]

Not always, and price goes up exponentially with length. Anything over about 3 or 4 feet will cost a LOT more than the added benefit unless you have extraordinary requirements. I've yet to have a need for a PRECISION straight edge that my 3' Starrett can't handle.
You might be right but even a four footer gives you only 2 feet on each side of a jointer.
Gary K.

[Eddie Darby]

The nice thing about long straight edges, is if you ever need to align a bandsaw, to make the wheels co-planar, then you can do it.

I have a 24" and a 48" in my shop, both come in handy.

[Bruce Page]

Which one was you using for reference? I think I'd trust a certified straight edge before a milling machine. But that is only me:rolleyes:

Gary K.
:confused: The 10" X 48" table on my mill is pretty darn flat. I can sweep it in to under a thou.

[Rob Will]

The nice thing about long straight edges, is if you ever need to align a bandsaw, to make the wheels co-planar, then you can do it.

I have a 24" and a 48" in my shop, both come in handy.

That's a good idea.......
but it's gonna take a lot longer straight edge than that;) .

Rob

[Gary Keedwell]

:confused: The 10" X 48" table on my mill is pretty darn flat. I can sweep it in to under a thou.

Sorry man....didn't know what you meant by mill machine. I'm guessing that you are talking about a metal-cutting machine? Some day I'd like to get myself a Bridgeport. I could really dish out tons of mortise and tennons with that baby:D
Gary K.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

http://home.comcast.net/~jaswensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html

[Gary Keedwell]

http://home.comcast.net/~jaswensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
That seems like alot of work for a straightedge.:eek:
Gary K.

[Tom Veatch]

The nice thing about long straight edges, is if you ever need to align a bandsaw, to make the wheels co-planar, then you can do it.

....

True, but I don't believe that really requires a precision ground straight edge. Would be nice, but my bandsaw would require, best as I can estimate since I'm not in the shop at the moment, something on the order of a 6' straight edge. Factory edge of plywood or a length of steel angle iron or square tubing is sufficient for that task.

Quick lookup of price for off-brand (Enco) steel straight edges:

12" - $31.86
24" - $46.53 (~$15 for the extra foot)
36" - $100.83 (~$54 for the extra foot)
48" - $161.02 (~$61 for the extra foot)
72" - $251.47 (~$45/ft for the extra 2 feet)

Of course, it just depends on what you want and what the budget will support.

[Tom Veatch]

You might be right but even a four footer gives you only 2 feet on each side of a jointer.
Gary K.

That's right, but, unless you have an much longer bed than the one on my 6" jointer, 4' is enough to check the flatness of each table individually and 2' overlap is enough to check parallelism if the tables are flat.

[Gary Keedwell]

Exactly what I meant.;)

Gary K.

[John Schreiber]

http://home.comcast.net/~jaswensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html (http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejaswensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html)
Anybody ever tried that trick? Sure it's a lot of work, but I would love to try it someday.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

That seems like alot of work for a straightedge.:eek:
Gary K.

I suppose it is a bit of work. However, for me it's the journey as much as the destination. If it's your living then the money is easier to part with than the time I guess.

[Gary Keedwell]

I suppose it is a bit of work. However, for me it's the journey as much as the destination. If it's your living then the money is easier to part with than the time I guess.
I don't know Cliff...As I get older I start to weigh the time spent VS. time I have left issue. LOL I guess it is how you value your time and what you really like doing.:)
Gary K.

[Raymond Fries]

Sounds like longer is better.

Guess I'll stick with Starrett as I have a lot of their stuff.

[Keith Outten]

Just a thought...

I have been using my EZ guide rails lately. I checked them against an edge I have been using for years in my shop and they are dead straight. Probably the Festool guide rails would work as well.

.

[HERB]

Try this site. They may be a less expensive.
http://www.pinske-edge.com/catalog/cutting__shaping1.htm#Pinske_Straight_Edges

Sorry, I do not know how to make a link shorter.

[Gary Keedwell]

Try this site. They may be a less expensive.
http://www.pinske-edge.com/catalog/cutting__shaping1.htm#Pinske_Straight_Edges

Sorry, I do not know how to make a link shorter.
Herb, That's pretty impressive. It comes to about .0015 per 48" straight.Think I'm going to check into that. Thanks for the "heads up".
Gary K.

["Gary Brewer"]

I have both the 24" and the newer 36" Lee Valley Steel straight edges. They are great and for the money hard to beat. They are accurate to .001 across their whole length. I was afraid that the aluminum would be more fragile, less acurate ( Lee Valley's) and I like the heft of the steel. I like them a lot and they have allowed me to accurately set up my equipment ( my jointer in particular ) . They are not as expensive as Starrett ( I also have and like their stuff, squares, calipers, etc. ).
Just my opinion.
Gary

[Pete Bradley]

Just for a different opinion, I really don't think you need a precision straightedge to set a router fence, and contrary to much internet doctrine, few jointers you're going to encounter will need one either. A precision straightedge is total overkill for making band saw wheels parallel. A 48" level (or anything good to a 16th over the length) is plenty good enough.

I set my knives with a regular ruler. Do the trig on this method and you'll find it's remarkably accurate for something so simple. Jointers with dovetail ways will generally stay on for years as long as the ways are clean and the gib screws are tight (obligatory reminder: don't overtighten). If you get a big parallelogram jointer or start rebuilding beat machines, then you're going to need a straightedge.

Pete

[Gary Keedwell]

Just for a different opinion, I really don't think you need a precision straightedge to set a router fence, and contrary to much internet doctrine, few jointers you're going to encounter will need one either. A precision straightedge is total overkill for making band saw wheels parallel. A 48" level (or anything good to a 16th over the length) is plenty good enough.

I set my knives with a regular ruler. Do the trig on this method and you'll find it's remarkably accurate for something so simple. Jointers with dovetail ways will generally stay on for years as long as the ways are clean and the gib screws are tight (obligatory reminder: don't overtighten). If you get a big parallelogram jointer or start rebuilding beat machines, then you're going to need a straightedge.

Pete
I beg to differ Pete. I had big problem with my jointer after a house move.(no, I moved...not the house.... :) ) I tried every straight edge I had lying around, including all my levels. Still couldn't get a straight edge on my jointed wood edges. I was beginning to question my skill level, not to mention my sanity, so out of desperation, I ordered my Starrett 4' straightedge. Within an hour, after it was delivered to my house, I was jointing boards as straight as an arrow (are arrows really that straight/).
Come to find out that my outfeed table was sagging at the end. Man, you could hear me screaming clear across town!!!
I love that staightedge and it is great to have a "Standard" for my modest basement shop.
Gary K.