I know I'm gonna get alot of flack for this, but......................

[David Cramer]

When making a bandsaw purchase, why do I constantly hear that you have to do all this tweaking?

Are they right at the factory and then during shipping and handling key components are now out of alignment?

Should I expect to buy a bandsaw (been looking at the Rikon) and have to do this and that to it?

My tablesaw has worked flawlessly for over 6 years, right out of the box. My biesemeyer fence was bloody perfect!

If one is not "highly" mechanically inclined, is there a good book or DVD that shows one how to set up these seemingly finicky stationary tools? Suggestions?

I know quite a bit about the tools that I operate in terms of how they work, but it sure seems like bandsaws have a lot of setting up and wheel aligning, shimmimg, etc....to get them to work properly.

I'm not being a whiner, just looking to make a purchase in the near future and Chris Del's post has definitely steered me away from Delta. Engineering flaw or not, if Delta can't make it work after someone puts out that kind of money, I ain't going the Delta route that's for sure. If it was designed improperly and therefore makes it difficult to work as the tool should, then Delta, in my opinion, should take care of it. :) Yes, I know that many of you will disagree with my logic, but that's what makes the world go around!:)

Any comments on these sensitive, touchy tools that we call bandsaws?

Dave

[Nancy Laird]

Any comments on these sensitive, touchy tools that we call bandsaws?

Dave

Only one: buy a Steel City!!

Nancy

[Bill Wyko]

I have a Rikon and it was very easy to dial in. Just some minor adjustments for tension and the blade guides and it runs like a champ. Keep in mind these are adjustments that are necessary when you change blade size anyway. In addition, the Rikon was named the editors choice in the last issue of woodworkers journal I believe. Almost forgot, you can cut a 12" log with no problem.:D

[Chuck Lenz]

I bought a new JET 14" bandsaw with the enclosed base a few years ago. Not the old blue JET, but the cream colored. I ran it for a few years and one fall I decided to try some resawing on it, so I bought a 3/4" blade for it. Well I left the blade in the saw over the winter with the tension still on the blade. When spring came around I needed to use the saw. I turned it on and heard this terrible clanking. So I immediately shut it off and started looking things over. Where the tension bolt comes in contact with the cast aluminum lever on the upper wheel axle assembley it was cracked and bent inward and was hiting the spokes on the wheel. So I ordered a new axle assembly. Well, where the old part had failed by some really strange coincedence JET had beefed it up. I'm a little upset that I had to pay for a part and shipping for something that probably should of been recalled. Here is a pic of the old part incase you didn't understand what I was talking about. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/BSAxle.jpg

[glenn bradley]

There are reports of some saws showing up with far more adjustment needed to fire them up than I think ought to exist. Others show up in pretty good shape and probably within tolerance for the manufacturer.

Blade guides, etc. are adjusted during blade changes as a matter of course. Many discussions about these should not be viewed as complaints but rather discussions on the nature of 'this' or 'that' manufacturers approach.

Wheels missing a co-planer relationship by 1/4" is a totally different story. Bear in mind that in many manufacturers minds a 14" is still a little hobbyist's tool. I imagine the $2000 and up machines arrive pretty well set up.

[glenn bradley]

I bought a new JET 14" bandsaw with the enclosed base a few years ago. Not the old blue JET, but the cream colored. I ran it for a few years and one fall I decided to try some resawing on it, so I bought a 3/4" blade for it. Well I left the blade in the saw over the winter with the tension still on the blade. When spring came around I needed to use the saw. I turned it on and heard this terrible clanking. So I immediately shut it off and started looking things over. Where the tension bolt comes in contact with the cast aluminum lever on the upper wheel axle assembley it was cracked and bent inward and was hiting the spokes on the wheel. So I ordered a new axle assembly. Well, where the old part had failed by some really strange coincedence JET had beefed it up. I'm a little upset that I had to pay for a part and shipping for something that probably should of been recalled. Here is a pic of the old part incase you didn't understand what I was talking about. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/BSAxle.jpg

I'll bet you don't belong to the camp that states it is unneccesary to release blade tension on a band saw, eh?

[Bruce Page]

My MiniMax was spot on right out of the crate.

[Mark J Bachler]

My MiniMax was spot on right out of the crate.


yep, what he said.

[scott spencer]

Like most machines, some are spot on as received and some aren't. With the better brands, I'd hazard a guess that it's more luck of the draw than QC regardless of brand, unless there's a systemic problem with the machine. It's just the nature of most complex machines where high precision is required.

[Tom Veatch]

...If one is not "highly" mechanically inclined, is there a good book or DVD that shows one how to set up these seemingly finicky stationary tools? Suggestions?...

For bandsaws, I don't believe you could go wrong picking up a copy of Mark Duginske's and/or Lonnie Bird's bandsaw book. Both are available on Amazon for less than $14 each.

[Chuck Lenz]

Glenn, I think that club is more worried about blade breakage than saw parts breaking. The manual that came with the saw doesn't state it, and the saw does NOT have a quick blade release either. From now on I will release the blade tension at the end of the day. But you can't get away from the fact that JET knew something. Nobody adds more material to parts just for the heck of it.

[Ray Dockrey]

My Grizz 0555 only needed very minor adjustments and it has stayed in adjustment. It is a well known fact that Delta when they first shifted mfg. to China had major quality control problems. I think for the most part they have worked through those and continue to do so. I just bought a Unisaw and the fit and finish was excellent and it didn't have the warped pieces that people talk about.

[Todd Jensen]

One great place to start for free is calling Iturra Design @ 1.888.722.7078. They offer a free catalog that is essentially a 14" bandsaw tuning guide.
For the record, my Powermatic came with the Carter guides and Carter Quick Release, and has worked great for me from day one with little adjustment. In my mind, a lot of this had to do with the woodworking store I purchased it from, a local shop who's primary business is woodworking machines.
One thing to keep in mind also is that tablesaws/miter saws, etc. are a completely different engineering animal compared to a bandsaw, with signifigantly fewer moving parts and adjustments. JMO.

[chris del]

I have a Canadian General 650 table saw. They are around $2500 and they are top knotch. Solid and well built with a Baldor motor. The table saw is for me, the nucleus of my shop used in every single project.
Maybe when I set out to buy a bandsaw, I fooled myself into thinking that you can get a "top knotch" bandsaw for $1500 when in all reality I could have had 10 times the saw for a grand more. I never owned a bandsaw before so I had no idea if it would become a dust collector or an every day user.
I should clarify that the Delta bandsaw works fine. Probably just as good as any $500 saw out there. I just expected a perfact product for what I paid and clearly it is not. One day if I come into some extra coin, I will likely buy a 16" Italian saw for resaw work and keep the delta for scroll work.

[Frederick Rowe]

David,
I own the Rikon 18" 10-345 and it required very little set up, post assembly. Make no mistake about it, band saws are more complex than your table saw. Changing a band saw blade involves several steps not necessary in many other power tools. There are some excellent books on the subject, more importantly, just take the time to understand the manual for your particular saw. Properly set up, the band saw is a remarkably flexible tool. For many Europeans, and Yanks too, it is the center of their shop. Good luck - take your time and understand what each adjustment does.

[Jim O'Dell]

I had a few things to work out on my MiniMax E16. But I have one of the first 10 that hit the US, and it is understandable that there would be some things to work through. It is my first bandsaw, and was not past my ability to work out. One problem did take a call from MM to make sure what needed to be done, and how to do it. I know my machine better for it. Jim.

[Bob Feeser]

When making a bandsaw purchase, why do I constantly hear that you have to do all this tweaking?

Are they right at the factory and then during shipping and handling key components are now out of alignment?

Should I expect to buy a bandsaw (been looking at the Rikon) and have to do this and that to it?

Any comments on these sensitive, touchy tools that we call bandsaws?

Dave

As was mentioned earlier in the post, get Lonnie Birds bandsaw book. You can read my review (http://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Book-Lonnie-Bird/dp/1561582891/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-3050681-8220152?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1186278217&sr=8-1) on it at Amazon, it is right at the top. I suggest in it that you get the book first, before making a band saw purchase.
Another super helpful source for learning set up tips for a band saw is a show that David Marks from "WoodWorks" had. He did some unusual things, like dressing the back edges of the blade to get the sharp edge off of them. Using a self built wooden device with sandpaper on it, to dress a new belt, once installed in a band saw, to create an evenly smooth surface. Setting your fence to compensate for blade drift to mention a few. These were the 2 best sources I have come across. The book is the most popular seller at Amazon, and everything that David Marks does, I'm a fan of.
You are talking to someone who bought an old Walker Turner Bandsaw circa 1948 in great condition. I wanted it to be right, so I squared the blade to the table, set the guides, and more to true it up. I would suggest you get to know a saw, and the set up items, to better understand how it works. Nothing is hard about doing standard alignment-setup procedures on a band saw, you just have to do them one at a time. Get the book.

[Mike Cutler]

I bought a new JET 14" bandsaw with the enclosed base a few years ago. Not the old blue JET, but the cream colored. I ran it for a few years and one fall I decided to try some resawing on it, so I bought a 3/4" blade for it. Well I left the blade in the saw over the winter with the tension still on the blade. When spring came around I needed to use the saw. I turned it on and heard this terrible clanking. So I immediately shut it off and started looking things over. Where the tension bolt comes in contact with the cast aluminum lever on the upper wheel axle assembley it was cracked and bent inward and was hiting the spokes on the wheel. So I ordered a new axle assembly. Well, where the old part had failed by some really strange coincedence JET had beefed it up. I'm a little upset that I had to pay for a part and shipping for something that probably should of been recalled. Here is a pic of the old part incase you didn't understand what I was talking about. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/BSAxle.jpg

Chuck.

Don't beat yourself up. I've seen that same picture before, and it isn't just a Jet problem. Delta did it also. Leaving the blade tensioned for extended periods wasn't the root cause either. Some did it during the tensioning process.
You should limit the Jet to a 1/2" blade. The 1/2" Woodslicer blade from Highland hardware is an excellent choice. I don't personally believe that a Jet 14" can properly tension a 3/4" blade. I've owned mine for years, and it never has. I purchased a Rikon 18" specifically for resawing, and keep my Jet for the lighter duty tasks.

David.
A bandsaw is a significantly more involved machine than a table saw. A TS has a small spinning discs that exist in a single plane of force, rotating about a fixed point. There really aren't a whole lot of adjustments on a TS. Bandsaws are just a little bit more finicky.

[Joe Mioux]

My MiniMax was spot on right out of the crate.

YEP!


yep, what he said.


AND YEPPER!

Joe

translation: My MM16 was good right out of the box. Although i never really took a some super accurate measuring device to prove its accuracy. Im cuttin wood and it cuts good!

[Pete Bradley]

If all you depended on was the web (especially FWW Knots, thankfully SMC is saner), you'd think that the first order of business after buying a band saw was to get out the catalogs and buy a whole pile of add-ons (e.g. cool blocks, link belts, "supercharge" kits, detensioners, etc.) It's ridiculous. Buy the best machine you can afford, whatever level that is, read and understand the manual, and then get some experience. The two most important aspects of a band saw are the band and the guy standing at the machine. Experience will tell you what you need after that (most likely more bands, a little tweaking, very little else).

Pete

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

When making a bandsaw purchase, why do I constantly hear that you have to do all this tweaking?

Are they right at the factory and then during shipping and handling key components are now out of alignment?




I believe that there is no excuse for incompetent manufacture and assembly. None except that old devil money.

Band saws are such simple tools that the money they get for them always amazes me.

[Chuck Lenz]

I guess now I don't know what to say, I thought I had a valid point.

[Al Weber]

About 1 1/2 years ago I bought the older version of the Rikon 18" saw. It arrived well crated without any obvious problems. After removing the crate and assembling the unit I encountered all kinds of problems that included things like an unthreaded top hole where the eye-bolt is supposed to go, the need to redrill some of the mounting holes where the trunnion meets the frame, an out of alignment upper post that is very difficult to adjust. Although the Rikon representative that responds to queries is very capable and knows where the problems and solutions are, I basically had to rebuild the saw. I probably spent 40 hours realigning, adjusting and setting up the saw. While most people have had good success with Rikon, my experience was not a good one. I have concluded that this was one of those purchases where I spent too little. While I have managed to get the saw to perform acceptably, it certainly hasn't been what I expected. Unfortunately I think that the problems are not related strictly to Rikon but is a more basic problem in the consolidated industry right now where quality is hit and miss and design leaves a lot to be desired. All you can do ask questions and rely on others opinions to stay informed. While I would like to get rid of the Rikon and go to something else, I can't justify doing so at this point so I continue to tune it up each time I use it.

[David Cramer]

Geez, thanks a lot guys and gals. I really appreciate all of the input on this topic. Yes, I did realize that a table saw won't require the same set-up/tweaking as a bandsaw, but..............boy oh boy I've heard some frustrating stories in the last couple years where people spent upwards of $1500 and weren't happy with their purchase. To me, that's a good chunk of change to spend and not be satisfied with your purchase. I really feel for you people who have had problems in the past and present.

To me, that is depressing and scares the living daylights out of me to even think of pulling the trigger and making the purchase. But thanks to a lot of your responses, I will definitely keep looking and try to educate myself on these mysterious/finicky machines. I will check out the DVD's, on-line info, David Marks, etc......until I feel comfortable with what I'm going to purchase. Thanks again for all the great responses. I truly appreciate it fellow Creekers!:)

Dave

[Jim C Bradley]

David,
I have a 14" Delta that I inherited from my father. I think he purchased it in the early 50's. I have used it for many years for all sorts of cookie stuff---nothing with finesse (cutting fire wood, sawing the end off of a 2x4, etc.).
I have had the saw about 30 years. I can remember changing the blade only twice (got so dull they wouldn't cut).

Now I am a newbie in finer wood working. I tuned the saw as shown in many articles. I purchased a Carter guide system and put on a new Carter 1/2" 3 tpi blade. It works great.

I don't know if it is the Carter guide system, or I follow tune-up directions better than others, have good luck or what. The first thing I did was cut a 1/16" slice off of a 12" piece of 4x4 construction lumber. It was beautiful. So the next thing I tried was to cut 1/16" off of 40" (or was it 42") of construction 4x4. The saw cut beautifully. I used a fence and there was no drift, no burn, etc.

That old saw worked like a charm. The down side it that the saw was not designed by someone that ever heard of convenience. Putting the Carter guides on was not much of a problem---but a bit awkward. Putting on the new blade (oh yes I did put on new tires also) was not a big hassle---but it was a hassle (i.e. had to loosen the table tilt know 1/4 turn so the old blade could be removed, blade had to be rotated 90 degrees to come out through the table slot, etc).

All the previous stuff was about is that a newbie, with no experience, could set up the saw so it worked perfectly. I just used a good blade and followed directions. You can do it too!

I cannot believe that the new saws have not been improved vastly over this old timer, so life should be even easier. GO FOR IT.

Enjoy,
Jim

p.s. I did not mean for this to be a recommendation for or against the Delta products.

[Mark Duginske]

Thanks for the earlier reference to my band saw book. My new book titled
THE NEW COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE BANDSAW addresses the tune up issues with band saws. That book and my Fine Woodworking (Taunton Press) video Mastering Your Bandsaw will get people off to a good start.

The band saw is the most complicated tool and shares more with musical instuments than other tools.

Quite frankly there is a lot of bad information out there. Most of the information has to do with tension and the tension spring. For example,
Lonnie Bird says the spring weakens and that an aftermarket gauge (the Lennox is more accurate. Neither of those ideas are true. I bought all of the aftermarket gauges (about $1000 worth) and tested them, then had them test by a metallurgical engineer. I also sent them off to Mike Cutler who is a frequent contributer here at SMC. The Carter Electronic ETG is the best gauge. The gauge on the saw is adequate for most applications.
The Iturra gauge is junk. I have three Iturra gauges and put all three on the blade at the same time. After 20 test (60) readings I never got a reading to match. Some were as low as 3000 PSI which means that if you used the Iturra set at 15,000 you would have 5 TIMES the recommended tension. No wander he sells replacement parts.


Bird's book also doesn't deal with wheel alignment which is very important if one tries to resaw with a 14" saw with crowned wheels. John White's book has glaring misinformation, especially about the spring which he says
weakens. That simply is not true in the case of the band saw. Also White shows a straightedge against the band saw wheels but there is no blade on the saw. Checking wheel alignment with a straightedge only works if the larges blade you use is tensioned on the saw.

There are a lot of tune up tricks that help like rounding the back of the blade (my idea) and rotating the blade so that the weld (the least straight part of the blade) is opposite the guides when adjusting the trust bearing.

The new book list sources such as the one for getting the Lenox trimaster blade sharpened. I did not list Iturra as a source because after doing all of the research and testing I do not feel that his catalog is a credible source of information.

The new book has a website that I have not done any work on yet but plan on doing it shortly. I'm planning on having a question and answer section.
One of the strengths of SMC is the ability to communicate directly. Publishers are very reluctant to go back and correct information even if the information is seriously flawed.

[Chuck Lenz]

Just from what little experience I have on my bandsaw I've noticed that these saws will not perform well at all with even the slightest dullness of a blade.

[Ray Dockrey]

Just from what little experience I have on my band saw I've noticed that these saws will not perform well at all with even the slightest dullness of a blade.I am a firm believer that if you start having issues with your band saw the first thing you do after looking at the obvious is to replace the blade with a new one. I have found that usually cures the issue.

[Jeff Heil]

I picked up Mark's new Bandsaw book this weekend at Barnes and Noble. I had read a previous edition I checked out at the public library and found the new book to be a good reference and the pictures helpful. The material is presented in an easy to follow format and includes the details many more generic texts ommit.

My new bandsaw has "Carter style" roller guides and the book was much more helpful than the owner's manual that came with my saw.

[dirk martin]

My MiniMax was spot on right out of the crate.

so was mine....

[John Wesley Williams]

I just bought a rikon 10-325 and Lonnie Bird's bandsaw book - couldn't be happier.

[David Cramer]

Jim C. Bradley, thanks for the motivation. Believe me, it helps!

Mark Duginske, thanks for the detailed response (you have a pm sir). Mark's response is exactly what scares the "you know what" out of me. There is too much misinformation out there and if some of it is coming from the mouth's/keyboards of professional (Lonnie Bird), that even scares me more.

I certain realize that opinions are abound in any area of life. But if Mark proves out certain areas of question, that now become fact through research and testing, that's good enough for me. I'm not bashing Lonnie Bird or anyone else out there in the higher ranking of professional woodworking, but Mark seems to be a Bandsaw guru/specialist, so his word is going to hold more water than Lonnie's, at least for me anyways.

Again, thank you all for every post that you've made. I've read every one of them at least twice and learned much more than I can put into words. Not having money to throw around (who does?), it is definitely a purchase that I have to think about for awhile and hope I make the right decision in the long run. To me, $1,000 is still a sizable chunk of change to throw down on a tool and end up having issues with it.

Minimax, I wish! :eek: That is unfortunately out of my range.

My goal is to have a bandsaw around the holidays. We'll see.:)

Dave

p.s. I was wrong, I didn't get any flack! Go SMC!

[David Cramer]

I sent this pm to Mark and he asked me to post it on the board, so here it goes. I sent the pm to him "only" because I didn't want anyone getting into a "brand war" over bandsaws. I'm just trying to make a decent purchase and it's not like buying a tablesaw, that's for sure!

.................................................. ................................................


Hey Mark, thanks for the wonderful response to my questions.

Okay, if someone has a budget around $1,000, what do you suggest? What brand do you prefer and can I get a decent bandsaw for that price range? Please fire away with whatever brand you favor and what horsepower.

Where does one purchase your new book and new DVD at on using bandsaws?

I won't be using the saw every day, but if and when I decide to make that rare resaw cut, I don't want it bogging down or fighting me.

For the majority of what I will be doing is going to be light duty. But I still don't want a benchtop bandsaw for I know that I will be dissapointed in the long run and in addition end up wasting a few hundred dollars.

What do you think? I am literally going off of whatever you say because this is what you do for a living. I eagerly await your response.

:) Gratefully, Dave


.................................................. .................................................

Mark said he'd respond on the board, and again, I look forward to his responses.

[Mark Duginske]

Choosing and Buying a Band Saw

More than any other tool, quality makes a big difference in band saw performance. When shopping for a band saw you must look beyond the sales hype to choose a saw that fits your needs. Like the lathe, the band saw is a skill-intensive machine. Since you are cutting freehand, you can feel how the machine is performing. The band saw should run smoothly and cut thick material without resistance or vibration. If the saw vibrates there either there is something wrong with the set-up or else it is not a good piece of equipment. The old adage “you get what you pay for” is especially true of the band saw.

Occasionally, there are bargains at auctions, and in newspaper or on-line classified ads. In the new book there will be a section on buying used equipment with a checklist to help you evaluate the machines you may be offered.

Band saws for woodworking are available in a variety of sizes and prices and retail dealers often have a good selection and are up to speed on quality.

Band saws range in size from small portable bench-top units to large industrial heavyweights. Band saws are differentiated by wheel size, throat size or number of wheels. The most common design is the 14-inch two-wheel saw. Its 14-inch diameter wheels yield a throat width of 13 inches between the column and the blade. Saws in this category typically have a throat depth of 6 inches, and up to 12 inches with the installation of a height riser attachment.

There are three basic styles of band saws: bench top, stand mounted, and floor model. Bench-Top saws are the smallest and can be mounted directly on a work table or on a purchased or shop-made stand or cabinet. Bench-top saws are typically lightweight and typically have wheel diameters in the range of 8 inches to 12 inches. They are ideal for small projects and small workshops. One characteristic of these saws is that the motor is mounted directly to the unit, so there is no motor or belt system below the table. Although typically small and lightweight, there are exceptions, such as the 12-inch Jet and the 14-inch Shop Fox.

The stand-mounted model is characterized by the familiar 14-inch band saw with the cast iron frame and stamped steel stand that is either an open frame or an enclosed cabinet. The motor is usually mounted in the stand under the saw, and is connected by a drive belt to the lower wheel The 14-inch size, is adequate for most woodworking tasks and is the most popular size sold. These band saws are so popular because they’re very versatile, small, and relatively inexpensive. Although these saws all look very much alike, their quality varies widely, with price being a reasonable indicator of quality.

The 14-inch saw market is very competitive and the imported saws have pressed prices downward. Prices vary widely so it is worth researching a purchase. While you might find the lowest price through a distant dealer, a locally purchased saw would not require additional charges for shipping, though you might have to evaluate that against having to pay sales tax.
Since the 1930s, with the advent of the 14-inch Delta saw, this family of saws has been made with a frame consisting of two iron castings supporting the top and bottom wheels. Sheet-metal blade guards are secured to the frame members. The two frame members mate together at the base of the column. A height extension, which is also called a riser block, can be installed between the frame castings.

The typical consumer-grade band saw comes with a 3/4 hp motor as standard equipment. This size motor is adequate unless you plan to resaw thick wood, in which case a 1 hp motor is the minimum requirement. More expensive models use a 1.5 hp motor. Some manufacturers offer the same saw with your choice among these three motor sizes.
These 14-inch saws can handle blades up to 5/8-inch wide and .025-inch thick for heavy work and resawing. They can accept either block-style guides or ball-bearing guides. With block-style guides and phenolic replacement blocks, blades as narrow as 3/32 inch can be used.
Although the 14-inch band saw with a larger motor will handle a variety of tasks there are limitations. These saws typically have a pronounced crown on their wheels, which helps track narrow blades. Although most owners’ manuals state that a 3/4-inch blade can be used, these blades are usually .035-inch thick and prone to break prematurely from metal fatigue caused by bending the thick band over the relatively small wheels. Looking through the catalogs one can find numerous expensive accessories meant to soup up the 14-inch saw--you easily could spend $500. However, I think the money would be better spent. You would be making fewer compromises, with less risk of pushing the machine past its limits.
If you are doing a lot of cutting in thick stock you will max out the capabilities of a 14-inch saw rather quickly. In automobile terms the 14-inch saw is a small four-cylinder pickup truck. It will do a lot, but don’t expect to turn it into a dump truck.

The quality of the saws available in the 14” market are usually pretty good. A call or a trip to a local dealer is a good place to start. Also feedback from the web and sites like SMC.

THE BAND SAW IS ONE THIRD, THE BLADE IS ANOTHER THIRD AND THE PERSON ADJUSTING AND USING THE SAW IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THIRD.
Good Luck

[Rod Sheridan]

I Have owned the General International 17 inch saw for 3 years.

I had to take it apart to make it light enough to carry down the basement stairs, where it was re-assembled.

The saw worked great, the wheels were in alignment, the saw tracks correctly and is vibration free.

The saw re-saws well, as well as handling thick and/or odd sized blanks for turning.

I don't release the blade tension between uses, and haven't had any problems develop.

The only item I might wish for is a brake, with those heavy cast iron 17" wheels, it coasts too long when shut off.

Regards, Rod.

[Jeff A. Smith]

My MM20 was dead-on right out of the box too... Blade sides and front/back were square to the table, fence was square, wheels coplanar... everything. Never have adjusted it.

Maybe it's luck of the draw to some extent, but if so, I drew well. Ha!

Jeff

[James Biddle]

Chuck.

Don't beat yourself up. I've seen that same picture before, and it isn't just a Jet problem. Delta did it also. Leaving the blade tensioned for extended periods wasn't the root cause either. Some did it during the tensioning process.
You should limit the Jet to a 1/2" blade. The 1/2" Woodslicer blade from Highland hardware is an excellent choice. I don't personally believe that a Jet 14" can properly tension a 3/4" blade. I've owned mine for years, and it never has. I purchased a Rikon 18" specifically for resawing, and keep my Jet for the lighter duty tasks.

David.
A bandsaw is a significantly more involved machine than a table saw. A TS has a small spinning discs that exist in a single plane of force, rotating about a fixed point. There really aren't a whole lot of adjustments on a TS. Bandsaws are just a little bit more finicky.

I have the Rikon 18" also. Although I've been able to tune it pretty close for resaw work, I have not been able to tune it to a 1/4" blade that gives me anything close to acceptable cuts. I've been having growing feeling that I will never be able to tune an 18" Rikon for cutting sharp curves with the big bearing guides on this thing. Do most share my suspicions that you need a separate bandsaws for resawing and intricate sharp curve work? Or, do the better 16" or 18" saws perform each task equally well?

[Art Allen]

On the recommendation of an author in Fine Woodworking, a Delta 14” bandsaw was my first major tool purchase. My results were poor. I read several articles and a couple of books that recommended extensive tuning of the bandsaw along with the purchase of expensive accessories. I spent considerable time tuning the saw. When I could get it tuned exactly right, it would cut well for a little while and then it would go out of tune. Then, it would take considerable time to get it retuned. Then, I bought a Woodslicer. WOW, now the saw works right and I don’t even have to spend an eternity precisely tuning it. Unfortunately, the blade dulled quickly. Then, I bought a Timberwolf. It also worked great but dulled quickly. I relegated the bandsaw to doing very little. I learned to use the tablesaw for resawing and the jigsaw for cutting almost all my curves: the bandsaw collected dust. Eventually, I purchased a carbide blade for the bandsaw and have not had significant problems with it ever since. However, at this point my workhabits have become ingrained in me, and the bandsaw is only used to cut curves in very thick workpieces and resaws stock AFTER I have resawed the first 6” on the tablesaw. The moral of the story is that one of the biggest problems with new bandsaws, especially inexpensive bandsaws, is the lousy blade that comes with the saw. If you are having problems, try a decent blade before you spend a great deal of time and effort to get it precisely tuned.