Finish for shop furniture?

[Steven Triggs]

So I started building a router table today, and I'm taking a break for a few minutes. While working on it, I've been pondering what kind of finish to put on it. I'm not very fond of finish work, so I'm looking for something simple to setup, do, and cleanup. I've sprayed lacquer, but that is just to much setup and cleanup for this, IMHO. Also, I don't like brushing on varnish because it makes such a mess, plus I'm not going to stain this, so the varnish would probably yellow, which I'd prefer to avoid.

I've never used a rubbing type finish, but would be open to trying it if that is a good idea.

The wood in question is baltic birch plywood.

Anyway, just looking for some ideas here. What do you use to protect/finish the wood in your shop furniture? Do you have any suggestions for something that will work well, but doesn't require a major amount of setup/cleanup work, and hopefully doesn't have too obnoxious an odor?

Oh, and to clarify, I'm talking about for the body of the router table, not the top.

Thanks...

[Nancy Laird]

The only "finish" we've ever put on our shop furniture - tool stands - has been paint on a wall of benches. Everything else is just plain ole 2x4s and hardboard and birch ply. Since we don't throw parties in the shop, we don't worry about how it looks, just how it works.

Nancy

[Larry Fox]

Finish I use on my shop stuff is either sawdust (most of the time) or Waterlox.

[glenn bradley]

My BB Ply router cabinet is 3 - 4 coats of padded de-waxed shellac (Zinsser's Seal Coat).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54205&d=1167872143

It's very dusty in the pic. Finish is quite even in appearance. I used the same on my flip top stand and others. I apply with folded up paper towels. Clean up is nil.

[Rob Will]

For a small job how about lacquer sealer in a spray can?
Lowe's sells it.

Rob

[Steven Wilson]

Shellac - easy to apply, dries fast, can be applied when it's 0F in the shop, and super easy to reapply when damaged. All of my shop cabinets have it and I use to use it on my workbench top (I now use lacquer because it takes chemical abuse better, but it is harder to work with).

[Von Bickley]

Since we don't throw parties in the shop, we don't worry about how it looks, just how it works.

Nancy

Amen Nancy..... Some of these shops have nicer cabinets than most homes.

[Steven Triggs]

Thanks for the ideas. I think I'll give the shellac a try.

[Bert Johansen]

Steven, I agree that shellac is the way to go. However, I recommend one or two top coats of poly to give it more durability. I use MinWax wipe-on poly and it couldn't be easier. And it is virtually fool-proof.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
My "stock" finish for shop fixtures & more recently jigs is usually whatever is left over from any projects - for a clear finish.
I have nearly a full gallon of water based floor poly left over, so that's going to be my "stock" finish for a while.

For painted, I pick out colors from the mistint pile at the local Lowes that can be mixed together to give a "utility grey".

[Steven Wilson]

Bert, applying poly misses the point. Shellac dries so fast that you can spend a half hour applying finish to a cabinet and then hang it a few minutes later. On shop surfaces that are going to get some abuse the finish, any finish, is going to get beat up and need fixing. The easiest finish to fix is shellac, and recoats blend in to previous coats unlike poly. For a shop fixture, cabinet, jig, whatever, a quick, easy to apply, film finish is the way to go; the two that come to mind are shellac and lacquer with shellac being the easiest to apply and clean up.

[Michael Lutz]

I also agree with shellac. It was easy to apply and dried quickly.

Mike

[Howard Acheson]

I've got a little bit different take of finishing shop furniture. First, having no finish is a perfectly legitimate option. After all, it's going to get banged up a dirty over time no matter what you do.

If you elect to finish your shop items, it's a perfect time to try some new things. Use a finish you haven't used before and see how it works. In my old shop, each cabinet door and drawer had a different finish on it. It's a good way to learn a new finish.

Finally, there is something to be said for finishing so as to keep the appearence longer. But, it's still going to get its share of dings and dirt. Therefore, using a finish that is easy to repair and renew makes sense. I think there are two choices. Shellac, as has been suggested, is a reasonable choice. Another finish to consider is an oil/varnish. It's easy to make your own by mixing equal parts of your favorite varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Brush it on, let it set and then wipe it dry. Do it twice and you will have a nice, easy to repair and renew, finish that is good looking and adds a measure of protection.

My last choice would be a film finish like varnish or poly varnish.

[Paul Arnold]

Steven,

Not trying to hijack your thread, infact I'm glad you posted this because I too am pondering what, if anything to put on my workbench. I just made a workbench from a bowling lane that my in-laws are re-laning. I got 2 sections 11' by 42" by 2" (cut to 8' long) that are made of hard Maple. The boards are laminated butcher block style. After building a suitable structure under it to help hold its weight (I estimate this thing weighs in excess of 500#), I sanded it down to get all the years of oiling and bowling ball dings out of it.

I now wonder what I need to put on it or should I just leave it bare? Do those high priced Maple benchs come with anything on them? If so what? This will be used as an all purpose bench.

Oh yea, it even has the ball alignment dots still on it!

Thanks
Paul