PDA

View Full Version : Scarf Joint without power



Scott Felicetti
08-04-2007, 12:46 PM
I would like to try making scarf joints on my veneers by hand with a hand planer. The scarf I try to achieve is a 12:1 ratio on both 1/16" and 1/8" veneers. I've been using a Makita planer with an attachment that gives an automatic scarf. You can regulate the height of the material to get 8:1 or 12:1. However, the machine is a little rough on the veneers.

Is there a jig or tool I can utilize with a hand planer to achieve such a scarf? I would like to have more control over the process of making the scarf. What type of planer would I need and where should I buy it?

I've seen the "stacking" of material method that boat builders use, but it seems crude for my fragile veneers.
Am I making sense? Again thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Scott

Todd Jensen
08-04-2007, 12:57 PM
Have you considered using a mounted belt sander? Just an idea. I don't know if that would work with the dimensions of your stock.

Stuart Johnson
08-04-2007, 1:03 PM
Could you cut two boards with the proper angle, clamp your veneer between them and run a hand plan across the ends?

Jason Beam
08-04-2007, 1:10 PM
For hand tools, I'd construct some kind of holding system that acts as a fence for your hand plane. This device would securely hold the veneers (stacked or not) at the proper angle to a bearing surface.

I'm thinking of maybe a couple pieces of hardwood, beveled at the angle you want (complimentary angles, basically ripped and then reassembled) to act as the clamp. This would establish the working angle. By using a couple clamps to your bench, it'd hold the veneers securely. You may need a couple other supports to keep the remaining veneer surface supported.

Alternatively, if the angle turns out to be too steep, i'd use a couple c-clamps to hold the two boards together, and a couple other bar clamps to secure the whole mess to the front of my bench. This way, the bulk of the veneer can just rest on the surface of the bench. You may even be able to cut a couple wedge-shaped pieces that keeps the "clamp" at an angle that helps minimize the force on the rest of the veneer.

This "clamp" would act as a surface to guide your plane. Take light passes until the plane bottoms out and away you go. Or, use a sander, the critical part is having the proper control and securing the veneer.

Edit: I can't believe it took me over seven minutes to type all that!! Stuart beat me to it! :D

Scott Felicetti
08-04-2007, 1:35 PM
Thanks guys,
I'm going to try both methods. With placing the veneer between 2 angle cut hardwoods what type of planer should I use? I don't have a hand planer yet.
If I try the sanding method, I should just pick up a belt, orbital or regular palm sander, again don't have one yet. (A hand planer and sander shouldn't be too costly).

The scarf I'm doing is not very steep but gradual. 12:1 on 1/16" veneer goes from a feather edge to the 1/16" thickness in 3/4". On the 1/8" veneer the 12:1 scaf goes from a feather edge to 1/8" in 1 1/2" distance.

thanks again.
Scott

David DeCristoforo
08-04-2007, 1:53 PM
I think you will have a tough time getting any accuracy using a power sander for this. A long block, maybe 8" long X 2" wide or so, will be much better. But you really need to buy a good hand plane. With well tuned plane with a sharp blade, you can "shoot" these angles with ease, esp. with the veneer clamped between two angled guides.