softening edges

[Arch Stanton]

I am making some Arts & Crafts chairs. I understand that it is common to "soften the edges". Is there any science to this or do I just run a piece of sandpaper over the edge a couple of times?

Brian

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Arch,

No real science. Depending on the piece of the whole, I might use simple sandpaper beginning at 180 or 220 grit (smaller parts) to a block plane (larger parts) following by 20 or higher sandpaper.

Take care, Mike

[Roy Wall]

I am making some Arts & Crafts chairs. I understand that it is common to "soften the edges". Is there any science to this or do I just run a piece of sandpaper over the edge a couple of times?

Brian

Brian - use the sandpaper, but make sure its wrapped in a small block of wood. This will give you the control you need to work the edge..

[glenn bradley]

The look will vary from "breaking" the edge through a full on chamfer. On edges that are intentionally decorative I use an 1/8" chamfer (sandpaper on a block or a plane) on 3/4" stock, 1/16" chamfer on thinner stock.

Non-decorative edges just get a 'brush' with the appropriate grit (120 - 220 and sometimes 400). This breaking of the edge serves a few purposes. On open grain woods like oak it helps prevent the edge from getting snagged and torn. On all wood types a delicate break will help prevent finish from puddling along the edge.

If you look at some Greene & Greene variations where the joinery (large finger joints setting proud) is purposely pronounced, they are often softened to the point of being rounded over. My .02

[Michael Schwartz]

If yoy are just rounding them so the finish will stick just do it with the final grit you sand with.

180 is more than enough for White Oak for instance, because anything higher willl remove material unevenly creating a wavy surface. The reason for this is that the paper will cut the harder winter wood slower than the softer fast growth wood. Just sand up to 180 with a random orbit sander, and then follow up again with 180 hand sanding with the grain, to remove the cross grain scratches from the ROS.

Just take a block and sand the edge coming back and forth over the length of the edge varying the angle as you go in a random way. Nothing fancy needed.

[Jim Becker]

I always soften edges no matter what I'm making...to insure that finish will adhere properly. I couple quick strokes of 220 or 320 paper is what I do it with.

[Arch Stanton]

Things are starting to become clear.

*I will use 180 grit paper on a cork block.

*Make 4 or 5 strokes the full length of the piece, varying the angle with each stroke.

Thanks for the replies Gents. I have been thinking about this for a few weeks and haven't been able to find any information on the subject.

Regards,
Brian