Performax drum sander black line question

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi, on my drum sandpaper theres one or two black lines that look burnt an smooth , thus leaving a burnt line on wood and inset.
I tried an succeeded at chiseling it off but then it came right back on the next pass. I also tried the giant eraser on it but nothing.

Im sure this is a common problem but does it have a fix?

Thanks

[Bob Herpolsheimer]

Hi, on my drum sandpaper theres one or two black lines that look burnt an smooth , thus leaving a burnt line on wood and inset.
I tried an succeeded at chiseling it off but then it came right back on the next pass. I also tried the giant eraser on it but nothing.

Im sure this is a common problem but does it have a fix?

Thanks
Hi Craig,

If I understand correctly I have had the same problem. I don't have a lot of experience with my drum sander but I did notice the same problem and found that I had overlapped the paper by about 1/16". The paper did not burn but the wood did. When I readjusted the paper it stopped. I hope this helps.

[Dick Bringhurst]

Craig, You've got a burn mark on the paper. I've never been able to salvage the paper after burning except to put on new paper. You can work around it for a while sometimes, but you'll end up replacing the paper. I've heard of some that soak the paper in Simple Green and have some luck. It never worked for me. Dick B.

[Brad Townsend]

I have run into this when using fine grit on hard maple. Don't really know if the type of wood makes any difference, but I'm sure the grit of the cloth does. I never get it with medium or coarse. I've scraped it off with some degree of success, but it's a real pain, and you are right about it having a tendency to reform in the same spot. Some have suggested taking the roll off and soaking it in mineral spirits over night, but I haven't tried it yet.

[Doug Shepard]

What kind of wood are your sanding? Is this pitchy wood like pine? This is maybe a new one on me. I dont think I've run into this. Have you tried one of the gum eraser type belt cleaner sticks to see if you can get whatever's sticking on the wrap cleaned up?

[Craig D Peltier]

What kind of wood are your sanding? Is this pitchy wood like pine? This is maybe a new one on me. I dont think I've run into this. Have you tried one of the gum eraser type belt cleaner sticks to see if you can get whatever's sticking on the wrap cleaned up?
It was maple.It also happened on poplar.
Yes tried gum stick.

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi Craig,

If I understand correctly I have had the same problem. I don't have a lot of experience with my drum sander but I did notice the same problem and found that I had overlapped the paper by about 1/16". The paper did not burn but the wood did. When I readjusted the paper it stopped. I hope this helps.

No overlapping, the burn is a perfect circle unlike the track of the paper.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Sounds like you may have sanded a dried glue squeeze-out. Think back and see if you think that was possible. Fast way to ruin a sanding roll. I don't know the chemistry involved but there's no getting the burn off. You don't have to completely eliminate all dried glue but any little lumps sticking up will do it.

[Brad Townsend]

Sounds like you may have sanded a dried glue squeeze-out. Think back and see if you think that was possible. Fast way to ruin a sanding roll. I don't know the chemistry involved but there's no getting the burn off. You don't have to completely eliminate all dried glue but any little lumps sticking up will do it.
Good thought. Not trying to answer for Craig and excuse my butting in here, but when it's happened to me, it hasn't been glue related. It could possibly have something to do with resin in the wood, but I could never really tell for sure.

[Craig Thompson]

If you are using a fine cloth... it quite possible that it is just build up. If you dont have enough vacuum, the dust will build up and leave burn marks.

I have a double drum General, It was originally hooked up to a standard 1200 CFM Jet unit. Once I got a larger collector (like the Owners manual suggested... "When all else fails") the issue vanished.

[Craig D Peltier]

If you are using a fine cloth... it quite possible that it is just build up. If you dont have enough vacuum, the dust will build up and leave burn marks.

I have a double drum General, It was originally hooked up to a standard 1200 CFM Jet unit. Once I got a larger collector (like the Owners manual suggested... "When all else fails") the issue vanished.
Im working with the former owner tommorrow also,maybe he will know.
Thanks
Im running a 1.5hp only about 1250cfm I believe.

[Mike Cutler]

Craig.

These are burn marks. They can come from glue lines, sap, pitch and natural oils in the wood. they can also be caused by try to take off to much in one pass or having a feed rate that is too fast.

The paper is not trashed. Soak it in a mild solution of simple green and water for 30 minutes or so and scrub it off with a soft brass brush. Don't use the chisel method anymore.

[Craig D Peltier]

:D
Craig.

These are burn marks. They can come from glue lines, sap, pitch and natural oils in the wood. they can also be caused by try to take off to much in one pass or having a feed rate that is too fast.

The paper is not trashed. Soak it in a mild solution of simple green and water for 30 minutes or so and scrub it off with a soft brass brush. Don't use the chisel method anymore.
OKay no chisels!:D
I worte in on the blackboard.

[Rick Christopherson]

One of the more common causes of this is when you sand a piece of wood and hit a nail or other small piece of metal. This wears the grit off the belt and it no longer sands, but instead burns. If this is the case, there is no way to fix it.

[Mike Cutler]

Craig, You've got a burn mark on the paper. I've never been able to salvage the paper after burning except to put on new paper. You can work around it for a while sometimes, but you'll end up replacing the paper. I've heard of some that soak the paper in Simple Green and have some luck. It never worked for me. Dick B.

Dick.

Try this next time.
Soak the sanding roll in simple green and water for awhile. Actually, I think just about any mild solution of soap and water will work. Simple green isn't magic. Using a soft brass brush, or the edge of a block of wood. Pinch the area of the burn into a tight radius, and scrub across the burn mark with the brush. or use he edge of the block of wood. Fingernails work too, but they wear out to quickly.;)
The pitch/resin will be stiffer than can accomodate the bend radius, and the edges lift off of the sanding roll.

I haven't hit a nail in the wood, as Rick described, with my sander. I did hit one with a jointer though.:mad: . Still, it's a good tip to look out for.

[Craig D Peltier]

I guess pitch, feeding too fast and taking too much off can all lead to this.
Its hard for me yet to know how thick a board is and how much the ruler reads knowing that I must be withing a 64th if its a wide piece.

[Alex Elias]

I guess pitch, feeding too fast and taking too much off can all lead to this.
Its hard for me yet to know how thick a board is and how much the ruler reads knowing that I must be withing a 64th if its a wide piece.

I don't use the ruler. I just lower the head until it touches the wood and then release (higher) the head just enough to varely touch the wood. Set the speed at 3 or 4 and start feeding the wood and adjust the hight of the head until it's right. Then you can play with the spped as need it.
If you try taking more than you are supposed to at one time you will get the burns on the paper. I got them already and was able to salvage the paper to a degree. The thick coat of burn something on the belt as mentioned will harden up to a point to if you pinch the paper a bit it will separate from it. I also used a thin metal brush to clean files it works great and it cost a few $$ at lowes.
I hope this helps.
ALso make sure the head is parallel to the table other wise that could cause the problem too. You could be trying to take more material from one side than the other one.
Good luck

[Mike Cutler]

I guess pitch, feeding too fast and taking too much off can all lead to this.
Its hard for me yet to know how thick a board is and how much the ruler reads knowing that I must be withing a 64th if its a wide piece.

Craig.

The performax is a very nice" lite duty" sander. Used properly it gives very good results, but it is slow.

To set the drum head for the initial pass, I do the following;

1. Place the material on the platten under the drum head with the machine off.
2.Lower the head until the pressure rollers make contact.
3. Start the feed belt.
4. Lower the drum head while holding the bearing on the end between my fingers. When the bearing begins to spin I know the sanding drum is in contact with the material.( The bearing may turn and stop due to inconsistencies in the face of the board from planing. You're looking for the initial contact. Also the entire board should be done to find the highest spot)
5 Let the material feed through the head, and remove it.
6. Set the feed rate at about mid scale or slightly less.
7. Turn the drum sander on.
8. Run the material through, then flip it end for end and sand the same face. (This may have to be repeated a few times. The drum sander can deflect upward at a slight angle.)
9. Turn the crank handle no more than 1/6th of a revolution, and repeat until the desired result is obtained.
10. Flip the board over and do the other side. You shouldn't have to perform steps 1-5 again, unless you changed grit.

Make sure to work through the grits. Going from 80 grit to 180 may cause problems, and will definitely slow you down. Also, you have to perform steps 1-5 everytime you change grits.

Leave yourself enough "extra thickness" to finish with an ROS, or your favorite palm sander. Drum sanders leave very fine, perfectly straight lines in the face of the board. Sometimes it doesn't matter,and the finishing process will hide them. Other times, with woods like Ebony, African Blackwood, Cocobola, Ziricote, etc, the lines are very distinct and won't be hidden in the finishing process.( damhikt. ;) )

As I stated. It's a nice lite duty sander, but it is a little slow. Great results can be achieved with one though.

[Craig D Peltier]

Craig.

The performax is a very nice" lite duty" sander. Used properly it gives very good results, but it is slow.

To set the drum head for the initial pass, I do the following;

1. Place the material on the platten under the drum head with the machine off.
2.Lower the head until the pressure rollers make contact.
3. Start the feed belt.
4. Lower the drum head while holding the bearing on the end between my fingers. When the bearing begins to spin I know the sanding drum is in contact with the material.( The bearing may turn and stop due to inconsistencies in the face of the board from planing. You're looking for the initial contact. Also the entire board should be done to find the highest spot)
5 Let the material feed through the head, and remove it.
6. Set the feed rate at about mid scale or slightly less.
7. Turn the drum sander on.
8. Run the material through, then flip it end for end and sand the same face. (This may have to be repeated a few times. The drum sander can deflect upward at a slight angle.)
9. Turn the crank handle no more than 1/6th of a revolution, and repeat until the desired result is obtained.
10. Flip the board over and do the other side. You shouldn't have to perform steps 1-5 again, unless you changed grit.

Make sure to work through the grits. Going from 80 grit to 180 may cause problems, and will definitely slow you down. Also, you have to perform steps 1-5 everytime you change grits.

Leave yourself enough "extra thickness" to finish with an ROS, or your favorite palm sander. Drum sanders leave very fine, perfectly straight lines in the face of the board. Sometimes it doesn't matter,and the finishing process will hide them. Other times, with woods like Ebony, African Blackwood, Cocobola, Ziricote, etc, the lines are very distinct and won't be hidden in the finishing process.( damhikt. ;) )

As I stated. It's a nice lite duty sander, but it is a little slow. Great results can be achieved with one though.

Thanks for your time to write that.I will try it that way.

Also to all others who took time.