12"Crescent Jointer????

[Carroll Courtney]

Guys,I came across this jointer and purchase it,but never cross my pea size brain that its is 3phase w/a direct drive motor.I have single phase power only.Serial# C-1174.Do ya'll know if this motor can be rewound to single phase, or can a motor be purchase some place that will match up.Has an 820 frame,everything else is the nor.Don't know what the 820 stands for.Any web sites where a person can download a owners manual and parts list.The guy said that it was made in the early 70's.Thanks for any advice on this jointer. Carroll

[Joe Jensen]

As long as the motor works fine, I think you are better off with a phase converter. Cheaper and you can use it for other tools too.

Nice find...joe

[Chuck Wintle]

Check out owwm.com for more info. (old woodworking machines)

[Paul Libby]

Look for information at Old Woodworking Machines ( www.OWWM.org). They may be able to help you with information on your jointer.

[Jude Tuliszewski]

Converter...then you would be open for more big arn :D , or at least some good deals. It seems like WW stuff that is 3 phase gose cheap.

[M Toupin]

Carroll,
You have several options:

1. VFD (Variable frequency drive) - simplest and easiest to implement. takes single phase power and outputs true 3 phase. 3hp is generally the limit, though you can derate some of the higher hp units and run them on single phase. check out factorymation.com for decent prices.

2. static phase converter - basically just running your 3phase motor on single phase. 3 phase motors can actually be run on only single phase, the trick is to get it spinning... a static converter uses capacitors to provide power to get it spinning. The down side is you loose about 33% power. Maybe a problem, maybe not...

3. Rotary phase converter - you can buy or build one, it's basically a generator using a 3 phase motor to generate the 3rd leg or phase. If your serious about 3phase machines this is a real option. Downside is they need to be balanced to your load and you'll need some additional wiring for your new 3 phase distribution system.

Don't let the 3 phase thing scare you off, thats a nice machine and you'll be very happy with it once you work out the power!

Mike

[Jamie Goodhart]

I fixed a old Oliver jointer for a friend by removing the back and windings of the motor from the jointer and kept the motor front case just for the bearing support and installed a sheave and single phase motor. The orignal motor wasn't capable of being ran on 230vac it was only 440vac.

[Rick Lizek]

I fixed a old Oliver jointer for a friend by removing the back and windings of the motor from the jointer and kept the motor front case just for the bearing support and installed a sheave and single phase motor. The orignal motor wasn't capable of being ran on 230vac it was only 440vac.

My 16" Oliver Jointer was wired for 440 volt three phase only and my local motor shop was able to tap into the windings and make it run on 220 volt three phase. I then used a rotary converter to run the machine. I've done this on numerous machines over the years and only on really old motors where the wires were brittle was the exception and had it rewired to run on 220 volt three phase.

On direct drive motors it's better and cheaper to go with a phase converter than to try and modify it to go single phase. I've seen too many botched up conversions that dropped the value and use of the machine too many times.

[Rick Lizek]

Guys,I came across this jointer and purchase it,but never cross my pea size brain that its is 3phase w/a direct drive motor.I have single phase power only.Serial# C-1174.Do ya'll know if this motor can be rewound to single phase, or can a motor be purchase some place that will match up.Has an 820 frame,everything else is the nor.Don't know what the 820 stands for.Any web sites where a person can download a owners manual and parts list.The guy said that it was made in the early 70's.Thanks for any advice on this jointer. Carroll

That's a great jointer. I'll take the table raising inclines over a parallelogram jointer any day. I've worked on many a Crescent over twenty five years. The tables slide apart so it's easier to set the knives right off the head as opposed to going off the table. A very good jointer in my opinion and experience in rebuilding machines. A very simple and reliable machine. Much easier to maintain than an Oliver with it's pedestal base. The Oliver with it's double pedestal base requires much more skill to align the tables and mist be realigned every time it's moved. The Crescent on the other hand can be moved easily an deven mounted on a mobile base.

You can't rewire the motor for single phase. A converter is the preferred way to go. Even with a static you will have more power than you need. The motor should be new enough so you can use a VFD to run it. www.factorymation.com (http://www.factorymation.com) has the best prices and call them to size it right.

[Jim Becker]

As long as the motor works fine, I think you are better off with a phase converter. Cheaper and you can use it for other tools too.

I agree...That's the best course for a direct drive machine. Awesome gloat, by the way!!!! :D

[Mike Heidrick]

How many horsepower is the motor? We can help you select the VFD you want. It is nice because you will be able to now control the time the motor comes up to speed and how fast the motor stops with the VFD. I use a VFD on my DJ30 and it works great!

[Jim Becker]

Carroll, could you please post a picture of the cutter head? The reason I ask is that some of these older machines have a cutter head design that should be replaced for safety. I can't see that component in the pictures you already posted.

[Kermit Hodges]

That my friend is a real jointer! That will make/is one fine jointer and once you get past the 3 phase you will be glad you bought it.

You can have it rewound but it will cost you dearly. Last time I asked it just was not an option. Copper and labor are just to high. I don't consider replacing the motor an option either. Pricey and for the money you have other options.

Two things to consider. Do you think you might want other large machines in the coming years? If so then look at building a phase converter. It's not that hard and it opens up a whole new world of industrial cast iron machines. Often much cheaper than a comparable singe phase machine. Go to practical machinist and look for Bruce Norton. The man has the plan for RPC. Not the cheapest or the simplest but the safest I have seen. He gladly shares his plans and knowledge too. His designs are not the cheapest to build but they right and once going should last for years and years!

Now, if this is a one time purchase or maybe you might just be buying one more 3 phase machine, a VFD is a very good choice. I have used both and I really like a VFD, especially on a lathe for the variable speed option. You don't state the HP of the motor. If your under 5 HP your can probably find a VFD and I bet you are. You can wire your current starter into the VFD as a remote too. Most VFD's I have seen you have to wire direct to the motor and by pass your existing switch. Most have provisions for a remote switch so I like to use the original for looks. Totally overkill but it works.

Kermit

[Carroll Courtney]

Jim here's some pics of the head.Please let me know what you think about the cutter head.

[Rick Lizek]

It's a perfectly fine cutter head. The easiest way to set the knives is to set them high and tap them down with a piece of hardwwod or a special birdsmouth steel tool. I typically pull the tables apart and set my gauge on the head.

[Reg Mitchell]

Its fine Carroll. It's round. Some had square one....clam shells I think and are dangerous.
Reg

[Adam Grills]

The head looks like the head on the 16" Cowan & Co. I had. The bolt heads go through the openings in the head and seat directly onto the knife. Maybe I am seeing it wrong. Make sure they are tight.
Adam