shop made splitter for 22124

[Michael Batt]

I'd like to make a drop in splitter for my 22124 to replace the wretched blade guard/splitter assembly that came with the saw. Has anyone here done that? Any suggestions or comments - positive or negative (I have thick skin) are appreciated.
Thanks.

[Alex Berkovsky]

I'd like to make a drop in splitter for my 22124 to replace the wretched blade guard/splitter assembly that came with the saw. Has anyone here done that? Michael,
No, but some have bought a Shark Guard (http://www.leestyron.com/sharkcrman.php). At least it will give you an idea.

[scott spencer]

Here's one made from stainless. The stock spring is the only thing holding in place, but so far it hasn't ever lifted. It'd probably be pretty simple to build in some nub to help hold it in place.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/splitter4.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/splitter3.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/Splitter1.jpg

[Jamie Buxton]

If you do make your own, I suggest making it as thick as the kerf cut by your saw. Most OEM splitters are flimsy sheet metal, too thin to prevent the lumber from pinching the back of the blade. If the lumber pinches the back of the blade, you may get kick-back. If you'll make the splitter as thick as the kerf (or a hair thinner), the kerf cannot close on the blade.

[glenn bradley]

I make ZCI's out of 1/2" BB ply and use the MJ Splitter. I use the factory 22124 insert for a template to drill the leveling, retaining and finger holes. I'll try to post a pic when I get home. This solves two problems; zero clearance and splitter.

Update - Here you go. I know, you asked for shop made splitters but, the ZCI is shop made so its half right.

[Michael Batt]

I make ZCI's out of 1/2" BB ply and use the MJ Splitter. I use the factory 22124 insert for a template to drill the leveling, retaining and finger holes. I'll try to post a pic when I get home. This solves two problems; zero clearance and splitter.

I wanted to use the mj splitter. made a new zci. followed the directions for installing the splitter to the letter. but when I was done and ran the test board through, it stopped dead at the splitter. It looks perfectly aligned but no go. maybe i'll try again becasue it would be the perfect solution, especially becasue I use the grrrper system. Seems so simple but i seem to be making a bit of a mess of it

[Phil Pritchard]

If you do make your own, I suggest making it as thick as the kerf cut by your saw.
Actually the riving knives used on Euro saws are marginally thinner than the kerf as this prevents binding in the cut, so a 3.2mm (1/8in or 0.125in) kerf saw will normally have a body somewhere around 2.8mm (0.110in) thick and that's the thickness the riving knofe or splitter should be. Part of the reason is that every time a blade is sharpened it gets a little thinner, so a blade which starte at 3.2mm may well end up at 3.0mm (0.118mm) or thinner. If your riving knife/splitter starts out the same thickness as a new saw blade kerf it will start to stick in the cut somewhere around the second or third sharpening

Phil

[Michael Panis]

On my Jet cabinet saw, I just replaced all the nuts and bolts with thumb screws so I don't need a wrench. Works great, and a lot easier than a full replacement.

[glenn bradley]

I wanted to use the mj splitter. made a new zci. followed the directions for installing the splitter to the letter. but when I was done and ran the test board through, it stopped dead at the splitter. It looks perfectly aligned but no go. maybe i'll try again becasue it would be the perfect solution, especially becasue I use the grrrper system. Seems so simple but i seem to be making a bit of a mess of it

Definitly give it another try, I use Grr-Rippers with it and it is a very safe and comfortable solution. The directions are so-so. Its one of those things where once you get it, its a cake walk. If I can help interpret them, PM me.

[Gary Muto]

I use an MJ splitter with a shop made ZCI plate. I actually set up two at once and both work fine. The splitters can be inserted neutral to 3 levels of pressure on the stock between the splitter and the fence. I found the tightest setting "+++" facing the fence to be too tight. It didn't stub, but it binds a little more than I like.
My ZCI plates are very flat and set very level to the table with 4 allen screws.

[Michael Batt]

Definitly give it another try, I use Grr-Rippers with it and it is a very safe and comfortable solution. The directions are so-so. Its one of those things where once you get it, its a cake walk. If I can help interpret them, PM me.

I'll do both - give it another try AND pm you if necessary. Thanks.

[Rick Levine]

I wish I could find a splitter that would work on my Wooddynamics ZCI. I hope if they come back they would develop one.

[Jamie Buxton]

... every time a blade is sharpened it gets a little thinner..
Phil

Hmmm... The blade in my saw is at least five sharpenings old, and may be more. It still makes a kerf which is a hair over 1/8" -- about .127" or .128". (I think the teeth are .125", and the extra couple thou are runout on the arbor.) The blade is a 50 tooth combo blade; perhaps sharpening techniques differ from blade style to blade style.

[Phil Pritchard]

Your blade may have been 3.4mm or so to start with, who knows, however, all the tips have to have side clearance otherwsie they'd burn in the cut. This meand the tips narrow from front to back, so each time they are sharpened they will grow progressively narrower. It still doesn't affect the principle - we've have riving knives mandated in the UK (and most of Europe) since 1974 and the design rule that the riving knife/splitter is slightly thinner than the blade kerf works. As you will find out when such devices become mandatory in the USA in 2014 (so only 40 years after us). I just find it amazing how long it's taken for this basic safety feature to be included

Phil