grip-tites?

[mike roe]

Currently Rockler has the grip-tite 2000 system on sale for a hundred bucks. I recently experienced a moderate kickback - not too bad but it made me "wake up" so to speak. hundred bucks now seems cheap considering the alternative. So does anyone have/use this system? Im a little concerned about mounting the metal fence. I have a Ridgid TS3650. Ive been all over the grip-tite site and pretty much studied Mr. Lucas' setup. Im just wondering if anyone has any opinions or maybe other suggestions. Id like to have a single "solution" and not have to install and unistall the steel fence over and over. Ive gone over the other TS setup steps - the blade, miter slots, and fence are as close to parallel as i can get them and ive tried to loosen the outfeed end of the fence a hair, plus a zero clearance, and splitter when i cant use the guard. I was also looking at the grr-ripper and many other combos of featherboards, hold downs etc. I think im leaning towards the grip-tite system however. any info is greatly appreciated.

[Clint Winterhalter]

Mike,
I've got two of the grip tites, I don't have the system (metal fence plate)
They work well, easy to use and they grip like no tomorrow. I've watched the video on the grip tite site some time ago. If you decide to pick up the system let us know how it works for you.. It might prompt me to pick up / craft a metal fence plate.

Good Luck!
Clint

[Michael Schwartz]

Anything that can make a tablesaw safer is a good purchase.

I use a grip tight, I bought just one for 20 bucks and it is indispensable, I swear it has saved my butt a few times. The lexan finger that provides downward pressure is surprisingly effective. The fingers on the sides have quite a bit of give when ripping anything with a rough, or non parallel edge compared to a traditional featherboard.

I think they make a version with a stronger magnet so it will work over the miter gauge slot. Get this one, I wish I had.

Also, I recommend using the splitter for all rip and panel cutting operations. Its their for a reason, and its meant to be used.

[Don Bullock]

I've only seen the system demonstrated at woodworkig shows by the guy who invented them. He puts on quite a show. They sure look like they do a great job in his demonstrations.

Since my Incra fence is aluminum they won't grip to it. Otherwise I'd strongly consider getting a couple of them. In the future I may consider inserting some rare earth magnets in the Incra fence so that they would attach to it.

[Larry Rasmussen]

I used to use the yellow wheels but found eventually I got tired of adjusting them and getting them right. It's been 7-8 yrs since then so don't really remember my issues. Woodcraft has another hold down system with wheels that's been around for a while but I didn't read the fine print and found when setting up it needed to be on top of a much higher fence. It's not like I couldn't have raised it but it seemed awkward.

I bought the grip tight set up when I had my grizzly saw and loved it, used the grippers on table and fence. I lost much of the usefulness of the set up when I bought a Bosch portable saw with an aluminum table but still use it with the metal plate on the fence.

I bought an Accusquare fence I got for the Bosch, they make a smaller one for the portables. Since it doesn't leave the garage I'm going to put it on a little bigger base. I've had the thing for months and am just getting the cabinet built for the saw. I pretty undecided about putting that metal on the nice accusquare fence. I was having some trouble with my cuts when I put it on the Bosch portable fence and it turns out it wasn't quite straight. I got it some what better and it's ok.

I noticed mule cabinets have featherboards that looked like they might pull the piece in to the fence a bit. I'll have to go back and look again. Anyway I wrote to mule, explaining I was putting in the fence I got from them and wanted to know what the best placement might be for one or more of their featherboards. They wrote back and said if I was careful with set up there was no reason I should need a feather board. I have to admit that I spent more time on the set up an my cuts stopped pulling away from the fence (still talking about the Bosch).

That said the gripper is a great system if you've got some metal. I bought a kit and there is no way I'd clamp the one short additional piece on to accomodate a taller cut. So you are down to the two separate gripper pieces and the metal for the fence. I've thought if I started again I might just buy the grippers and get something made to suit my needs at the machinest or just buy the right size piece of metal from the shop.

Food for thought I hope. It's a great system but the value is in the gripper pieces, not the metal in the kit.

larry

[Frank Stolten]

I have one of them but not the steel panel that mounts on the fence. Like you I saw it demonstrated at a ww'ing show and was intriqued enough that when Rockler had it on sale I picked one up. One of these days I'll get around to getting the steel plate also but it works great just by itself. The magnetic hold-down works very well, no slippage at all, and it's easy to reposition. If you can get the package for $100 I'd go for it.

Whatever system you decide to get, please use a splitter for ALL your ripping. I can't emphasize enough how important that is to avoid injury from kickbacks. There several afternarket models available or you can easily make your own.

Here are a few that you can build:
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/howto_splitter.htm
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37761
http://webpages.charter.net/harkerhome/WWShop/splitter.html

[mike roe]

I use the OEM guard/splitter 90% of the time - i actually like Ridgids its line up perfectly everytime. I have an aftermarket splitter as well for times the OEM guard has to come off and that works great too. I just want some insurance so to speak. Im not sure if its worth getting the two grip-tites and the metal for the fence. if the metal is going to be cumbersome then ill just pick up one grip-tite for 40 bucks and see how it goes.

[James Suzda]

I picked up one of those “Grip Tite Systems” with the metal plate and the Grip Tites that were modified to include the wheels on the bottom. These are not the same as those sold that only have the plastic “feathers”.
Of course you have to modify your fence by mounting the high steel “L” shaped plate, but I just mounted a piece of plywood to my metal fence and screwed the plate to that. The only problem I’ve found with this is the additional weight of the fence.
When I have to rip some boards or plywood, I just push the Grip Tite’s rollers snug to the material with one being in front of the blade and one in back of the blade. When you push your stock through the saw blade the little rollers, which are adjusted with a little angle, the material is being pushed tight to the fence and will also prevent the stock from moving up. I’ve never had a kickback while using the Grip Tite system, but I’m not saying it couldn’t happen.
They sure work nice when you are ripping long pieces of lumber that you might have to walk around to the back of the saw to support and to pull the stock through the saw.
I’ve also used them on my shaper to hold the material tight to the fence and on the bandsaw as a “third set of hands”.
I guess the bottom line is that I use mine quite often and consider it money well spent.
Jim

[John Lucas]

The griptite with steel plate is IMHO the way to do safe ripping...a must be when ripping of narrow stock. I have the aluminum Incra TS-III fence so I have to mount with two thumb screws. Takes 4 minutes.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/copy_of_www_woodshopdemos_com/jrl-2.13.jpg

Here is a short page on it... http://www.woodshopdemos.com/safe-4.htm

[Don Bullock]

Thanks John. I appreciate the post. As soon as I can that's what I plan to do.

[Bill Arnold]

I've had the Grip-Tite setup for a couple of years and use it in a variety of situations. I've been able to do everything I've seen demonstrated, including stopping in the middle ripping long, narrow stock and walking to the outfeed side of the tablesaw to finish pulling the piece through. I made a saddle from plywood to which I mounted the steel plate so all I have to do is remove the HDPE faces from the fence and slide the saddle in place.

Another item that has proven very useful is the Grrripper. I've used them primarily for ripping short pieces of stock as narrow as 1/4".

[Bruce Page]

I have two of the grip tites, I don't have the fence system. The grip tites work as advertised and are very handy to have around.

[Jim W. White]

ditto Bruce's post above. they work good, hold tight!

["Michael Hinkel"]

Another vote for the system, I have had it for several years and use them regularly.

[Lee Schierer]

I have the grip tite systema and have had it for more than 10 years. I stilluse it regularly. It works! It literally sets up in 10 seconds. It comes off in 5 seconds. The best thing is you will actually use it. Here's my complete set up: Lee's Fence (http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/fence.html)
and a photo.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/lsfence1.jpg

Well worth the money in my opinion and far chealer than one visit to the ER.