Air Compressor.......help me out here...

[Dennis Peacock]

OK....I have an 11 year old Sears Craftsman 5HP 15Gal compressor. It is blowing oil on the outside of the tube going down to the tank, oil is on the outside of the tank and there is oil (milky white) in the condensation that I drain from the tank. It still works.....and I see evidence of rust in the water drained from the tank. I use the compressor quiet a bit and especially when I am spraying finishes and cleaning tools, and cleaning the shop. The new HD (opened today) has two "Husky" compressors that I have considered.

1. Single Stage 7HP 60 Gal vertical tank, duty rating of 5,000 hours.
2. Two Stage 7 HP 80 Gal vertical tank, duty rating of 10,000 hours.

Item #1 is $400

Item #2 is $800

Both have a 10% off.....

My real question? Is my old Craftsman becoming a safety concern, wearing out and if so, is two stage the way to go. I only want to have to buy ONE more time.....

[Dennis Peacock]

OK....I have an 11 year old Sears Craftsman 5HP 15Gal compressor. It is blowing oil on the outside of the tube going down to the tank, oil is on the outside of the tank and there is oil (milky white) in the condensation that I drain from the tank. It still works.....and I see evidence of rust in the water drained from the tank. I use the compressor quiet a bit and especially when I am spraying finishes and cleaning tools, and cleaning the shop. The new HD (opened today) has two "Husky" compressors that I have considered.


I also want to know if I can get by with the "limping comressor" until my finances improve a little.

[Tyler Howell]

Dennis, I know that money is burning a hole in your pocket and you really want a new one buttt :D...... you can try tightening up the connections. You can rebuild the compressor very much like an engine block, new rings and seals. Craftsman may have a rebuild kit or one of the local compressor shops. If the tank and motor are good. Just the lungs can be replaced. And if you gotta buy new :cool:.... bigger is better but I'd go to a pro and leave big box store alone for high priced tools. my $.40 worth.

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis, I know that money is burning a hole in your pocket and you really want a new one buttt :D...... you can try tightening up the connections. You can rebuild the compressor very much like an engine block, new rings and seals. Craftsman may have a rebuild kit or one of the local compressor shops. If the tank and motor are good. Just the lungs can be replaced. And if you gotta buy new :cool:.... bigger is better but I'd go to a pro and leave big box store alone for high priced tools. my $.40 worth.

Tyler,

I have no money.....this would have to be purchased on CREDIT and then paid off. Motor is still good. All connections have been tightened several times......Just not sure if the compressor and tank repairs/replacement wouldn't about equal the price of the #1 option of the single stage and just go all new with a 3 year warranty. Plus, I don't want this thing "exploding" on me or my family. Safety is a primary concern. I can always replace a compressor, but not a family member.

[Dennis Peacock]

Oh yea.....I have checked the "Pro" shops and the cheapest two stage compressor is $1400.00....out of my price range right now....unless the companies stock price REALLY improves.....a LOT..... ;)

[Ken Garlock]

and they are Ingersoll Rand, and others.

Dennis, this last summer I bought the 5 HP, 60 gal. vertical, V-2 two stage IR compressor from Northern Tool. IR has a free shipping offer from their factory. Northern Tool is just the middle man. The compressor was delivered by Fed-X truck cargo on a tailgate lift truck. It weighs about 400#, and the driver used his pallet truck to move it for me.

I figure it is the last compressor I will need to buy. :cool:

And, it is delivered to your door for $999.99.

You can take a look at it atIR compressor (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=767&categoryId=90143)

BTW, the motor does say 5 hp. on it, and IR recommends a 40 amp circuit, but mine runs just fine on a 30 amp. I run mine at about 150 psi, but if you maxed out the rating to 175 psi, you might need the 40 amp circuit. I haven't popped a breaker in 6 months....

One heck of a machine :)

[Dean Baumgartner]

Dennis,
If the motor and tank are still good, there are several online sellers that just sell new cylinder assemblies. I think that even the farm supply stores like Fleet Farm in my area carry single or twin cylinder assemblies that bolt down and have a pulley for driving with your own motor.

Dean

[Tyler Howell]

Safety First Dennis,

120 PSI is nothing to sneeze at but it is not a system that sends tanks flying through brick walls (like dive tanks or O2. I've seen that happen).
I'd say you are ok till you can do the right thing.
"You too can own a $1400 compressor buying an $800.00 dollar one on credit"
Check for cracks in the cylinder, if so, start shopping.
Keep the kids out of the shop when it is in use.
Let the pressure bleed off when not in use.
Change the oil and see if there is any metal in pan.
Keep some distance between you and the unit.
Drain your tank often especially in hot humid climates.
Are you operating at the right pressure? I've been known to bump the pressure switch to get a few more CFM.:o

Even I was able to rebuild my old Craftsman and I'm in management. :D
Only had to rent a ring compressor for $3.00. That was 12 years ago. It's still my main garage unit for tires air tools etc. Have a light weight Bosch for nail guns in the shop.
Good luck

TJH

If there is frothy oil in you tank it is very likely in your line too and you need a good separator or it will get in your finishes

[Chris Padilla]

Dennis,

The first questin to ask yourself is if you've survived THIS long on such a small tank, do you really need to go bigger? Most likely, the answer is an emphatic, "Yes!"

If "no..." then take some of the advise here and attempt to fix it yourself.

I bought a Sears "professional" (the black ones, not red ones) 25 gal (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00916778000) compressor. I got a deal from Sears (they always have deals) where I got it basically interest free for 1 year. So, I haven't paid for it yet although it is due in April this year! Basically, it has been free for a year! :D They have a 60 gal equivalent, 7 HP.

I even mounted this sucker up in my rafters in the garage. I am semi-lucky in my garage in that half of it is a vaulted ceiling...lots of storage space up there!

Usually, the most important thing to figure out for an air compressor is how you use the air and at what PSI you need.

Do you find your motor running A LOT when you use your compressor? If so, then you want a larger storage tank for air...not necessarily a big motor.

[Ace Karner]

You should be able to hone the cyl and re ring for 20 to 30 bucks and get several more years

ace

[Dennis Peacock]

<Do you find your motor running A LOT when you use your compressor? If so, then you want a larger storage tank for air...not necessarily a big motor.>

Chris,

When I am spraying or using air tools the motor runs almost 100% non-stop. I know that a 60 gal tank would help this, but an 80 should lengthen the time between compressor runs. HVLP conversion guns are air volume thirsty rascals and at times my little compressor runs so much that LOML complains about the "somethings burning" smell provided by the long running compressor.

[JayStPeter]

Dennis,

I'm happy to give you the answer you want:

You NEED the big two-stage.

Your welcome,

Jay

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis,

I'm happy to give you the answer you want:

You NEED the big two-stage.

Your welcome,

Jay

Thanks Jay..!!!!! I knew someone would come through..!! :cool:

I don't "need" a new compressor as the one I have still works (at least the last time I checked it....it still worked). Safety for my kids and LOML is my primary concern and safety for me is what LOML is concerned about. My secondary concern is that my compressor would go out right in the middle of spray finishing a fine piece of furniture. But I guess that could happen to a new compressor as well.

[JayStPeter]

Dennis,

I actually just bought a 60 gal CH at Lowes in December (just before the 20% off power tools sale :( ). I used a 10% moving cupon and got the thing for around $350. They claim 7HP for it, but it pulls the same amps as my 3HP unisaw.
So far, I've only used it to shoot nails and run an impact wrench. Can't really comment on how much better it would be for you spraying.

BTW, I've used the safety excuse to get all kinds of cool stuff for the shop. It's one of my favorites :D

Jay

[Wendell Wilkerson]

Just in case you weren't aware. Home Depot is running a 6 month interest free on any purchase over $299 if you put on it their credit card. That's how my new compressor followed me home :)

Wendell

[Mike Cutler]

Dennis. There are two items that stand out for me in your post. First is the milky white discharge from the tank trap. This is an indication that the oil is blowing by internally and there is too much moisture in the reciever air. Second is that the machine is still running. This is very good. I am going to ask the proverbial dumb questions. Does the machine have the right amount of oil in it. how old( read as dirty) is the oil, and does it have the right type of oil. I've never played with little compressors but I've done a lot of work on large industrial Air compressors and vacuum pumps and they get a little testy when the oil gets low,dirty or the wrong type is used. Is there an internal, or external oil filter assembly and is it clogged? is the loader/ unloader valve assembly accessible, and is it sticking? I would try a rebuild first, or see if the compressor unit itself is available as a replacement assembly to save you time. In the smaller units alot of the bolt on parts i.e, unloader valves, internal reliefs, discharge check valves and pressure sensors on larger unit are actually and physically built into the compressor assembly itself on smaller units, and may not be replaceable. Obviously bigger is better with respects to air compressors, primarily because it cuts down on compressor starts and short cycling, or continuous run operation. My .02 FWIW

[Dennis Peacock]

Mike,

Everything is working as it should. I replaced the oil in the compressor (according to the book) this past summer. The type and quantity of oil is correct according to the instructions. There is not an oil filter on this unit. It is a splash type librication on the compressor. The loader / unloader valve assembly is front side accessable and does not stick. I know I will have to upgrade to a larger unit at some point, but I am not financially ready to foot the bill on this one. I can go on credit terms and pay it off that way, but I just don't want to buy another single stage unit if I really need a two stage unit. As much as I now rely on compressed air, I only want to make this purchase once.

[Eddie Severt]

Dennis,
Yes, you can rebuild for under $100. I had this same compressor many years ago and it served me well. Then I traded an old Army truck for a new Dayton 5hp with an 80 gallon tank (20 cfm @ 175 psi) and gave the old one away. There is no comparing a pro compressor with a regular one. I can sandblast all day and the motor never gets hot. This is expensive ($2100.00 list 20 years ago), but will last a lifetime.
Eddie

[Don Abele]

Dennis, I read your post at lunch today at work and then asked the experts on my boat. These guys work with high pressure air compressors (4500 psi). Sorry my answer is so late, I got really busy and couldn't get back on until now. Here's what they had to say:

Most likely you got a ring or seal that's blown and letting the oil blow by - VERY easily and cheaply repaired. Similar to a piston ring for an engine.

The white froth is probably oil and water being mixed under pressure from the oil leaking by and getting sent through the line (with compressed moisture).

Rust in the tank really isn't that big a deal. No matter how often you drain it, you are going to get rust in there. Minimizing it is the best option by draining the tank often - open the valve and let the water blow out and then close it. Note, you don't have to drain all the air out of the tank. As for the tank exploding, while possible, it's probably not very likely. It's only at about 120 psi (as opposed to 2000-3000 psi for oxygen or diver's tanks) and the result would most likely be the metal fracturing and splitting open releasing the air, a shock, yes, but overly dangerous, I don't think so. The water I drain from my tank is always rusty and I've had my tank for about 10 years.

If you opt for a replacement, I'd recommend the 60 gallon single stage. That's what I have and have never been able to over tax it. Mine provides 10 scfm at 100% duty cycle (this is what is really important). I use mine for everything from cleaning the shop to sand blasting. Two stage compresses the air faster (refilling the tank faster) and at a cooler temperature (reducing moisture). I have a 100# sand blaster and run out of sand before air (about 30 mins continuous at 135 psi).

Hope this helps and let us know what you decide.

Be well,

Doc

[Brad Hammond]

dennis,
i "rebuilt" my sears two stage compressor this summer. my problem was valves ($4), but i took off all the connections and reinstalled with teflon tape. this helped my leaks tremendously.
i may have missed it. did you determine the leak was from the tank or the copper tube?
cya
brad

[Dennis Peacock]

Don Abele.....your answer was very timely....and lots of good info and advice. I talked to a couple of folks tonight and for what I do in my shop (non-pro) that the single stage - 60 Gal will serve me well and besides that.....LOML says that since the single stage is 1/2 the cost of the two stage....I can go get it tomorrow...well....today now.

So Friday afternoon....I will be going to HD and getting the Husky single stage - 60 Gal compressor. The compressor is cast iron and should be better than my old Craftsman.

After talking with a fellow Creeker tonight on the phone about my problem, he pointed out that my shellac spray job on the last piece of furniture I did came out not so well possibly due to oil being in the air system and air lines.....and out the end of my HVLP conversion gun. This would explain why my shellac finish had a "funky" feel to it after drying. He also recommended that I replace my air hose since the inside of the air hose is now coated with compressor oil. By NOT changing the air hose out with a new one, I would continue to contaminate my spray finishes. I never thought of that but it makes good and clear sense to me now.

Many thanks to ALL of you for your concern, advice, tips and pointers.!!! With 10% off the purchase and my oncall pay for the next 3 months, I will have it paid for before the end of spring. Yes...I don't get that much for a week of being oncall...I could make the same exact amount by working 16 hours at minimum wage at McD's........

Needless to say....I just MAY have a new gloat come tomorrow afternoon if I don't back down on going a little more in debt....... :)

Thank you ALL....you have been kind, willing and generous to help with your knowledge and expertise.......You are a GREAT bunch of folks and I honor you all. :D

[Jim Becker]

Needless to say....I just MAY have a new gloat come tomorrow afternoon if I don't back down on going a little more in debt.......

We want pictures... :D

Seriously, I'll be interested in your opinion on the Huskey compressor once it's in place...I need to do a compressor upgrade and I'm torn between the red/blue option and the ivory option.

BTW, for your new hoses, check out Flexeel. (review on my site) Very flexible, even when cold and easier to deal with than the heavy rubber ones. I bought mine from Coastal Tools and couldn't be happier.

[Tyler Howell]

I knew that money was just too hot to sit in your pocket.:D

Don't Forget you have 15 gal. of extra storage in your old tank.;)

[Dennis Peacock]

.........We want pictures.......

Pictures? what pictures.......? :D

Do you think I would purchase a tool and NOT post pics and a little review? ;) Hows the MM-16?

Tyler....you knew it all a long didn't you..!!!! You rascal!!!!!

[Mike Kelly]

New is nice Dennis. My 35 year old Crapsman compressor that I have lugged from Florida to California and Texas finally rusted through the bottom last year. I tried in vain to find a replacement tank (which costs as much as a new compressor). The spot that rusted through was right where a valve should have been. I drilled it out, tapped it, and put a 1/4 NPT brass valve in it to drain it easier. The steel plug froze up many years ago. So far it has lasted another year. I have filters on it so the oil and condensation don't mess up anything and its not big enough for spraying or anything fancy. I think it is a 2HP 5 gallon type.

The IR unit recommended looks good. Like you I hate to spend the bucks when I don't have to. Sounds like a filler tube replacement is what you need. Find out where it is leaking and figure out how to plug it.

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hi Dennis,

I am curious, What oil and what weight oil do you use in your compressor:confused:

Boyd






Thanks Jay..!!!!! I knew someone would come through..!! :cool:

I don't "need" a new compressor as the one I have still works (at least the last time I checked it....it still worked). Safety for my kids and LOML is my primary concern and safety for me is what LOML is concerned about. My secondary concern is that my compressor would go out right in the middle of spray finishing a fine piece of furniture. But I guess that could happen to a new compressor as well.