Medieval Faldstool

[Kris Koenig]

I have started to post this a couple of times, but I keep getting busy and forgetting about it. Here are a few picures of a reproduction of a faldstool derived from a manuscript image, as seen at the bottom. It is made of 1" maple slats and finished with a Honey Oak Poly finish for indoor and outdoor use. It is being used for a travelling stool for a harpist who does medieval recreations as well as classical Harp concerts.

Any comments or criticisms are welcome. This is the first of this style that I have made. I did build two models first, one at half and one at three quarter size.

Kris

[Mike Cutler]

That's pretty cool. The original folding chair.

Nice work, it's just as pictured.

[Kris Koenig]

Thanks. I must have accidentally put this in the Neanderthal section. I did not do it the neander way, though, so it may need to be moved.:o

Sorry for any confusion.

Kris

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Thanks. I must have accidentally put this in the Neanderthal section. I did not do it the neander way, though, so it may need to be moved.:o
No worries, Kris--nice work is nice work wherever it gets placed in a forum structure.

Take care, Mike

[Tyler Howell]

Nice work Kris. Is that what you are suppose to do when sitting in it:eek: .

[Zahid Naqvi]

Kris, nice work. I was reading the AWWA newsletter and it seems you are doing a presentation this coming meeting. Hopefully I can attend one.

[Kris Koenig]

Kris, nice work. I was reading the AWWA newsletter and it seems you are doing a presentation this coming meeting. Hopefully I can attend one.

I think I am on the schedule for October. I hope they didn't move me up.

[Bob Smalser]

What hardware did you use on the folding joints of the legs? Rivets?

[Kris Koenig]

What hardware did you use on the folding joints of the legs? Rivets?

There is nothing in the constuction but wood and a very little glue. The pivots are 3/8 dowels with 5/8 dowels glued on as caps. That and a little glue to hold the arms and feet on is all the glue used.

I drilled 3/8 holes through all of the pieces with a jig on the drill press. On the outermost members I driled 3/4 holes about 1/2 inch deep. I cut 3/4 inch sections of the 5/8 dowel after rounding the end, drilled a 3/8 hole in the center of the flat end, and glued one on each dowel. After it was all assembled, I cut the dowels flush with the outside edge of the legs and glued on the other cap.

I could have used a steel rod and peened the end like a rivit, but I wanted to stay with an all wood construction. On the two models I made, I used a wooden dowel for the pivots, and peened the end of them as if they were rivits. The 3/4 model is made from pine 1x6 ripped to the right width (~1.5 inches), and is assembled without even any glue, and I can stand in it without it even shifting. As a reference, I am 6'9" and around 300 lbs.

The 1/2 scale model was made from 1/2 plywood as a proof of concept for the pattern I drafted.

Kris

[glenn bradley]

Very nicely done.

[Bob Smalser]

Thanks, Kris. It looks terrific. I may copy yours some day.