Milwaukee 5625 Mounting Plates -- What do u Use?

[John Russell]

I current have a Mil. 5625 mounted in a home made table/top with a Rousseau plate. I adjust bit height using the built in feature on the router. I am redoing the top for a variety of reasons and I would like some understanding of what other 5625 owners use for plates, table tops, and if you use a lift, which one?

It seems that not every plate or lift accommodates the 5625 so I am curious what others do.

Thanks
JR

[Jason Beam]

On this:

http://sacramentoareawoodworkers.com/album/thumbnails.php?album=8

I use a Rousseau lift (model 5004 or something like that) that accomodates the 56xx series. This is a solid performing lift. No backlash, very accurate and stable. It's actually made by jessem, but I don't think the parts are 100% interchangeable, though.

As I understand it, just about all lifts are router-specific except for those that use a baseplate mount instead of a wrap-around gripper type. There are a lot of people who enjoy the Woodpecker's lifts, too. I think they have a couple that support the Milwaukee 56xx series.

[pat warner]

Casting (http://patwarner.com/images/selecting4.jpg) screwed right to the top.

More on the RT (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html).

[James Biddle]

I have a Woodpeckers phenolic plate on mine, but I would buy one of their cast aluminum plates were I to do it over. They predrill the holes for your router (I have the 5625 too). The only reason I wouldn't mount mine directly to the top is that I like to pop the router/plate out of the table to change the bits. This also gives me an opportunity to vacuum out the router motor.

[glenn bradley]

I use the small Rockler aluminum plate with mine. No trouble in the year or so I've had it. Planned lift is the Woodpecker PRL or QL; the jury is still out. If you don't run a very thick wood or metallic top be sure to support it from underneath with ribs at close intervals. She's a heavy beast.

Mine is 7/8" MDF with ribs about every 6" and a frame surrounding the plate opening. Overkill? I had a supported top of 3/4" MDF sag over a span of only 18". I was very surprised and don't want to be again. Doubled 3/4" MDF is used by a lot of folks with good success as well.

[John Russell]

Casting (http://patwarner.com/images/selecting4.jpg) screwed right to the top.

More on the RT (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html).

That is cheating ....

[Scot Ferraro]

I love the Bench Dog plates -- I have the phenolic ones for my table, but they have an aluminum one with reducer rings that is pretty nice....I also have a rockler one that I use -- if youget that one, make sure you buy the bigger size (they have two styles) as the smaller one does not accomodate larger bits.

Thanks!

Scot

[scott spencer]

I use the Hartville Tools phenolic plate. Happy so far, but I don't use a lift.

[Rob Wright]

I love that router! I have mine in a woodpeckers quick lift 414A aluminum lift.

http://www.woodpeck.com/quicklift414.html

The rings and how easy it is to change bits are two things that I couldn't live without!

_ Rob

[Jerry Olexa]

I have the woodpecker alum 1/4" plate for the 5625 and very happy with it...It was about $100 but worth it!! I love this setup in my router table. The 5625 beast hangs there permanently...

[Bill Hylton]

I've built a couple of router tables around Big Red, and I mounted the base directly to the tabletop in both. The motor drops right out for bit changes (yes, AFTER popping the clamp) and fits back in just as quickly. I'd bet I can change a bit as quickly as a lift user can crank the router high enough to access the collet, then crank it down again after the bit swap.

Both tables can be seen in the revised, all-color edition of Woodworking with the Router. One is on page 65, the other beginning on page 81.

Can't say I see any real value in the so-called "above the table adjustments." I do have two tables with lifts, and I do use them from time to time, but mostly they're in the storeroom. I've never found it particularly onerous to reach a hand under the table and adjust the router. Gotta reach under the table saw to adjust the blade height and tilt. What's the difference?

Anyway, the direct-mount approach saves you the cost of the plate and the time spent installing it. Nothing to adjust to create a seamless, smooth surface.

No, it ain't cheatin'!

Bill

[John Russell]

"No, it ain't cheatin'!"

I once had a phone conversation with Mr. Warner about router tables, lifts, plates, etc.... As a complete novice to routers, I commented that router tables seemed to have an unusual number of parts and options that made things confusing for those not well-informed about routing and woodworking, i.e. ME.

So, I enjoyed Pat's response to my inquiry since it expresses a "keep it simple" approach. I have a router table now, but it was a shop class project and it serves me well enough. But, I do need a new top and maybe I will give the simple solution a try first....

What do you use for a top when you directly attach the router? MDF, plywood, or something else?

Thanks
JR

[Jerry Olexa]

I've built a couple of router tables around Big Red, and I mounted the base directly to the tabletop in both. The motor drops right out for bit changes (yes, AFTER popping the clamp) and fits back in just as quickly. I'd bet I can change a bit as quickly as a lift user can crank the router high enough to access the collet, then crank it down again after the bit swap.

Both tables can be seen in the revised, all-color edition of Woodworking with the Router. One is on page 65, the other beginning on page 81.

Can't say I see any real value in the so-called "above the table adjustments." I do have two tables with lifts, and I do use them from time to time, but mostly they're in the storeroom. I've never found it particularly onerous to reach a hand under the table and adjust the router. Gotta reach under the table saw to adjust the blade height and tilt. What's the difference?

Anyway, the direct-mount approach saves you the cost of the plate and the time spent installing it. Nothing to adjust to create a seamless, smooth surface.

No, it ain't cheatin'!

Bill

Love your two router books, Bill!! Thanks for the good practical advice above. Altho I've become spoiled w several routers and 2 tables, I still consult your tomes occassionally as needed..They helped me get started in this addictive but enjoyable hobby..

[Scot Ferraro]

I agree with Jerry -- Woodworing with the Router was my first book on Woodworking and got me started in this hobby -- I still consult it regularly for all kinds of tips, techniques and tricks -- thanks!

Scot

[Brad Schmid]

I have the woodpecker alum 1/4" plate for the 5625 and very happy with it...It was about $100 but worth it!! I love this setup in my router table. The 5625 beast hangs there permanently...

Ditto on all counts:)

[James Biddle]

Does the 1/2" of height of adjustment loss that comes from mounting the router to the bottom of a 3/4" table top compared to a 1/4" plate result in any meaningful loss?

[Alfred Toy]

What do you use for a top when you directly attach the router? MDF, plywood, or something else?

Thanks
JR

From Pats RT link page.


Casting (http://patwarner.com/images/selecting4.jpg) screwed right to the top.

More on the RT (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html).

I restrict my routing to cutters < 2.25" so my table top is simple, cheap, thin (5/8" MDF), has a small cutter hole and no insert. It remains flat and deflection-free, bolted to 6 dovetailed beams in the top of the stand. The router casting (from a PC 7518) has been bolted to the slab and adds a measure of stiffness/flatness right in the center where it's needed most. What's right for you? Only you can answer that. A 1,2 or 3 layered ply or fiberboard top, clad in plastic laminate, trimmed with maple, window-excavated, rabbetted for an aluminum insert/lift, and fitted with concentric cutter hole rings is not an uncommon sight.