Visions and new tools

[Scott Donley]

When I was a kid I had visions of owning a big ranch,log cabin home, and a brother named Hoss, didn't happen.:mad: When I threw this piece of maple on the lathe and started I had no idea what it would end up as, still don't.
The high side is about 11 1/2, width is 7 3/4, low side is about 6 1/2. With the tools I own I can go no deeper and still have about 4 inches to go to make a cool bucket :cool: Question is, would you just part it off at this point, and end up with two bowls ? or buy a new tool to finish the bucket. If a new tool, what would it be :confused: Remember, I am a poor man, and if it cost to much my dog will go hungry and the daughter might have to pay for her last year at the UW (University of Washington ) Thanks

[Tom Sherman]

Scott, you might consider making an Oland tool. Simple thing a cutter super glued in the end of a longer piece of steel, would give you a better reach.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Scott,
Just be safe! The daughter needs you to show up for graduation and I besides I expect she need a few more bucks from dear old Dad before she lands a real job. (Spoken by a childless Uncle to 38 nieces and nephews. Things are so obvious at arms length)

Figure out where the bottom is on the inside and try to bring a shape to that depth you like on the outside. And then you can part off whats left and have another short blank. If you think you have reached the max depth of your current tool box its likely you really are about an inch or two past really safe. Be careful.

Frank

[TYLER WOOD]

I second the making your own tool. Here is a link (moderators: please remove link if forbidden site info Thanks)
http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/links.htm

Hope this helps. I think our own Bill grumbline is the one to thank on this site for the tools. But there are also other goodies if you look deep!!

[George Guadiane]

Scott,
Just be safe!
Be careful.

Frank
I'm with Frank, a trick I use for shapes like you are showing is a box tool rest. Wide and sturdy, you can use the flat to insure that your scraper (or gouge - once you get the hang of it) is hung over the shortest distance, and close to the surface you want to cut.
When the tool properly addresses the work, you have a fulcrum point at the cutting edge, AND one at the handle end... The whole section in the middle becomes "a part of the tool" and makes the shaft/shank seem sturdier, more stable.
DON'T let that make you too brave, a catch on thin walls can have some pretty nasty results. along with breaking the piece (I got away without stitches), so wear a face shield. :eek:
I had a local welder make me a box tool rest from bar and sheet stock... Cost me $20.00, and you MIGHT be able to trade for a bowl or something. I have one that is 2 inches wide, one that is 3 inches wide and I'm thinking about getting one at 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches wide... Usually about 4 to 6 inches long. with the post centered and at the back.

[joe greiner]

An Oland tool would be simplest for deep hollowing. But I used a setscrew to retain the cutter, and transfer to a shorter handle for sharpening. I sharpen both ends of the cutter and flip before the next cycle of sharpening. Also made one at 45 degrees.

For this piece, though, I think Frank has the better idea, even if only because of more pleasing proportions. And you get another blank to experiment with.

Joe

[Allen Neighbors]

Darrell Feltmate's Website has a page that teaches you how to make an Oland Tool. http://www.aroundthewoods.com
I've made several of them... For what you want to do, if it were me, I'd use an Oland tool made from 1" rolled steel, and a 3/16" cutter, and then get a deep reach toolrest, like that one mentioned above, and use it for final scraping cuts. JMO. :)

[Mark Pruitt]

Even though your piece is not a HF, I would turn to my captive hollowing rig to complete the job. While it's true that parting off will yield a second shallow blank, I tend to think that you would get a more impressive looking piece by continuing to hollow it. If you do not have a captive hollowing rig, this could be an excuse to buy one.;)

You didn't ask for feedback as to the exterior profile, so this is unsolicited, but FWIW May I suggest that you take a little more off of the area near the base where the profile curves in? (IMHO that would flow a little more.) Just my .02

Mark