Jeff Wright
07-29-2007, 3:11 PM
I am nearly ready to paint a cabinet I made for my wife's china painting supplies. The cabinet will go out in the garage and wall mounted. It is deeper than normal to house some of her bigger china painting blanks.
I used a combination of joinery techniques: Sommerfelf offset tongue and groove bits (makes alignment of case components very exact), Kreg pocket holes, Amana rail and stile bits that adjust to accept variable thickness ply panels (I really like it!), the Festool Domino to make the floating tenons for the face frame, and a jig and Bosch small router to cut the initial butt hinge mortises (I hand chiseled the fine work). I attempted to create a small 1/16" reveal around the doors. I made both the door rail and stiles and the face frame they sit in oversized thickness (calipers measured 0.85"). I like the look and increased strength of the thicker frames.
I used the project as a means to calibrate and get familiar with my recently purchased Mini-Max combo saw and 20" bandsaw (I prefer to do most of my hardwood ripping using the bandsaw and then putting multiple pieces in the planer on edge to do the final sizing). I used a Woodpecker router table and their fancy fence system (I forget its name). The Noden Adjust-a-Bench and its twin Record-like vises were excellent to use. For sanding I used my Festool 150/3 random orbital and hand blocks. For trimming the doors to size I used the Lie-Neilsen low-angle small block plane, a quality tool. For the little bit of drill press work I used a Steel City bandsaw which has been serving me very well.
I designed the cabinet using SketchUp and found it extremely helpful to build it first on the computer screen prior to cutting wood. The cabinet provided a chance to build a prototype of a design I may use in our new kitchen cabinets that I will begin building soon.
I used a combination of joinery techniques: Sommerfelf offset tongue and groove bits (makes alignment of case components very exact), Kreg pocket holes, Amana rail and stile bits that adjust to accept variable thickness ply panels (I really like it!), the Festool Domino to make the floating tenons for the face frame, and a jig and Bosch small router to cut the initial butt hinge mortises (I hand chiseled the fine work). I attempted to create a small 1/16" reveal around the doors. I made both the door rail and stiles and the face frame they sit in oversized thickness (calipers measured 0.85"). I like the look and increased strength of the thicker frames.
I used the project as a means to calibrate and get familiar with my recently purchased Mini-Max combo saw and 20" bandsaw (I prefer to do most of my hardwood ripping using the bandsaw and then putting multiple pieces in the planer on edge to do the final sizing). I used a Woodpecker router table and their fancy fence system (I forget its name). The Noden Adjust-a-Bench and its twin Record-like vises were excellent to use. For sanding I used my Festool 150/3 random orbital and hand blocks. For trimming the doors to size I used the Lie-Neilsen low-angle small block plane, a quality tool. For the little bit of drill press work I used a Steel City bandsaw which has been serving me very well.
I designed the cabinet using SketchUp and found it extremely helpful to build it first on the computer screen prior to cutting wood. The cabinet provided a chance to build a prototype of a design I may use in our new kitchen cabinets that I will begin building soon.