Ceiling outlets, best way to use?

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I put in two ceiling outlets during my shop electrical upgrade. But what's the best way to plug into them? A short drop down line, a roll up cord with outlet? How do you use them? Thanks. (Lovin' all my new outlets in the shop)

[Roy Hill]

Hi Alan,

I have two ceiling outlets in my shop and I installed two retractable cord reels with outlets on the end. After I purchased the reels I kinda wished I had purchased one with a light/outlet combination. However, I like the reels very much and have used them many times.

I am currently in the process of completing and equiping my shop so I'm sure I will get more use out of them in the future. I would definitely recommend anyone to install at least two outlets in the ceiling when building or upgrading a work shop.

Roy

[Richard Madison]

Alan,
I have both 220 and 110 ceiling outlets, the latter for numerous fluorescent fixtures. The ceiling lighting circuits are sized to carry some load in addition to the lights. The lathe power cord plugs into a 220 outlet directly overhead. A 110 drop cord from a nearby 110 outlet parallels the lathe cord, and connects to a 4-outlet box mounted on the end of the lathe. This box provides power to a shop vac at the end of the lathe (for intermittant use), a box fan with filter directly behind the lathe spindle (draws dust away from my breathing zone), and an extra light on tripod to give some extra light on the workpiece. Another 110 drop cord powers the grinder at the other end of the lathe (for sharpening lathe tools). There are 5 more 220 ceiling outlets; unsure about their use, as final (?) layout of the shop (except for the lathe) is still uncertain. But are there if needed. Have a couple cord reels, smaller one mounted near a shelf (behind me when am turning at the lathe) for drills and sanding stuff for power sanding pieces on the lathe. Not sure where the larger cord reel goes yet, but probably on the ceiling (into a different lighting circuit) near the center of the shop.

Hope this is helpful. First post here. Ya gotta figure, I frequent the turning forum. Ceiling outlets are a "safety" feature to eliminate cords strung across the floor. The latter are tripping hazards, more so as one ages, with the probability of more serious injury.

Richard in Wimberley

[Jim C Bradley]

Hi Tom
I have six, double outlet, boxes in the ceiling plus outlets for five 8" fluorescent luminaires and two four foot luminaires. My ceilings are 9 feet plus a little. I have 3' #12 or 3' #14 cords hanging from each. Each cord has 3 places for power cords. This This works VERY well for me until my son, Glenn, comes to the shop. He ties them all up because he keeps banging his head on them. When he leaves I have to get a step ladder and untie them. These cords are one of the few advantages of being short.
I also have a 30 foot reel in the ceiling. This is used mainly for vacuuming, though it does come in handy occasionally for other things. You have to keep in mind that a reel, when not unwound, can create a fairly decent electrical field that can cause heating of the wire. Heated wire can cause the breaker to trip.
Oh yes, I have plenty of wall outlets also. My shop has its own electrical box. The runs are such that no breaker has two heavy duty machines on it. I work alone. I am a hobby person. I could do with less. HOWEVER, I really like the convenience of an outlet nearby whenever I want one.
Sorry, I must have had too much coffee. Myrna, the LOML, says that I get diarrhea of the mouth (computer) when I have too much.
Enjoy,
Jim

[Matt Meiser]

I have two roll up cords which I LOVE. I almost never have to haul out an extension cord and they practically put themselves away. I got mine from Sears which were the heaviest gauge I could find. The 3-way plugs on them aren't great, so I replaced with a good single plug.

[Al Willits]

I have a bunch of permanent outlets in the ceiling for the lights, easy to replace a fixture that way and keep the rest on, also have the outlets on several circuits.

I have only one retractable reel type set up and it has 3 plug ins on it and I have that located over where I do most my portable tool work, sanders, jig saws and such.

Jim Becker (I think)had pointed out a good point in a earlier thread on extension cords and that was some of the retractable cord units are not made very well, make sure it is at least 12 ga wire and better quality.

You can never have to many outlets.:)

Al

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks guys. I'm going to start looking for a roll up cord type. I have one now with a light but it's only 16 guage. Since I have two locations in the ceiling maybe I'll just use this one for light work. Thanks again for all the great ideas. Alan

[Jim O'Dell]

I made all of my ceiling outlets twistlocks. The intent was they were to be used for stationary machines, not for portable tools. I have close access to wall 110 plugs for portable electrical tools.
HMMMMM...twist lock plugs on all portable tools. They never get borrowed!! I thing I just stumbled onto something!!:D :D Jim.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I made all of my ceiling outlets twistlocks. The intent was they were to be used for stationary machines, not for portable tools. I have close access to wall 110 plugs for portable electrical tools.
HMMMMM...twist lock plugs on all portable tools. They never get borrowed!! I thing I just stumbled onto something!!:D :D Jim.

Yeah, but Jim you won't be able to use them outside the shop either. Back to the drawing board on this one. :)

[Jim O'Dell]

Nah, just make a super secret adaptor/extension cord. Shhhhhh, don't tell anyone!! :p Jim.

[Jim Becker]

Be very careful with the roll-up reels...as Robert Tarr demonstrated not all that long ago...they can be a fire hazard if you don't fully uncoil them before use.

The best way to utilize power from the ceiling is with a strain relief drop from a box. It's safe, strong and designed for the job. Talk to your local electrical supply for the correct and approved components.

[Geoff Grant]

I'm glad you mentioned strain relief Jim. I'm outfitting a new shop and read a lot about wiring before taking it on. I am using drop downs for stationary tools and a multifunction/panel cutting table that are away from the wall. From my reading special strain relief cords are a must to prevent an eventual wire failure/short.

Cheers, Geoff:)

[Alan Turner]

At PFW, we have a number of elec. boxes which are ceiling mounted, esp. in the bench area. Each has strain relief, and an SJ cord, 12 ga., and at the busainess end a square box with 2 duplex receptacles. When in use, they come to the floor; when not, they are coiled and hang from a bicycle hook near the ceiling box. We have several 1 x 1 sticks, with a five inch screw driven at an angle, which mount and dismount the coiled lines. This has worked well and safely for us.

[Matt Meiser]

We have several 1 x 1 sticks, with a five inch screw driven at an angle, which mount and dismount the coiled lines.

Alan--watch out for wear on the cords over time doing this. The screw threads are sharp and might be putting small cuts in the cord. A dowel might be easier on the cords. Or even a piece of small rubber vacuum hose from the auto parts store slipped over the screw. (Or I might be all wet.)

[Jim Becker]

A dowel might be easier on the cords.

Excellent idea...on a nice tapered piece of figured wood hand-planed smooth. :D Neander tail control device!

[Michael Justice]

Oops, duplicate entry

[Michael Justice]

I use the strain relief drops for both machine (220) and general (110) circuits in my shop.

For general curcuits I had the advantages of having the length and wire (12 ga) that I wanted, without the retractables' disadvantages of a mechanism that can break or risk of overheating wire. This is also pretty cost effective - use a prepackaged low cost extension cord and wire mesh strain relief fittings available from MSC. You could hang from these things - I'm convinced the box would pull out of the ceiling or the cord would break in the middle before it would pull out of the box.

For machine drops I bought the heavy (10ga) rubber cord by the foot and used locking plugs. You can buy the strain reliefs in different diameters for the type of wire you want to support.

Since my ceiling is open I can move these pretty easily as my shop is reconfigured. The only disadvantage I see is that I have to manually roll and hang up the cord rather than use that nifty rewind.

Mike

[Alan Tolchinsky]

O.K. guys I'm really in the dark here. I have no idea what strain relief drops are but I think I want one or more. :) Off to Google to see what the heck you're talking about.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

After googling for 5 min. I can't find a pic of strain relief. Anybody got a pic or can explain what they are? I was going to get a 3' piece of SJo wire like I used on my TS and plug it into the ceiling outlet. Then I'd put an outlet on the other end. I just don't know how the plug will stay in the ceiling outlet. Does this sounds workable or does the strain relief come in here?

[Jim Becker]

Alan, here's one PDF I found on the subject...it shows the grip minus the cable. The grip screws to the box on the ceiling and the mesh tightens on the drop cable as weight/strain is applied, keeping the cable from stretching or otherwise being damaged.

http://www.woodhead.com/data/current1787/Strain_Relief_Grips.pdf

[Michael Justice]

I got mine from MSCDirect.com

Search under "strain relief grips" or look at page 3535 of their catalog.

For my purposes I got the dust tight, slightly less cost.

Mike

[Steve Kohn]

I have both 110 and 220 cords hanging from the ceiling. I simply screwed an eyelet in the ceiling rafter and ziptied a normal extension cord to the eyelet. It was a lot cheaper that way.

Is there anything wrong with my approach?

[Jim Becker]

I have both 110 and 220 cords hanging from the ceiling. I simply screwed an eyelet in the ceiling rafter and ziptied a normal extension cord to the eyelet. It was a lot cheaper that way.

Is there anything wrong with my approach?

"Technically", yes...there is nothing to protect the cord from accidental stretching and breaking which could result in a fire or personal injury up to and including death. That's what the strain reliefs we've been discussing are designed to deal with. A bit of investment is required, but it's the "approved" way of accomplishing the task. That said, I'd be surprised if many folks in home-shop situations haven't tried the method you've described more than once...I did it once, too, in my previous shop.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks Jim and Mike, I understand now. I'm checking into it to see how to do this. Thanks again.