Audio Cabinet Top

[Jeff Royle]

I am about to start building this audio cab. An early start on next xmas. The top will be a mitered frame around a veneered panel. The question is whether to use mdf or plywood as the substrate. I have done a lot of veneering using plywood but not mdf.
My concern is the strength of the mdf when someone lifts the cabinet by the top. I plan on using biscuits to attach the frame.

I would also like to use mdf for some other planned projects in the future with veneered tops. I have been reluctant to use mdf in the past fearing the lack of strength.
Part of my immediate problem is that I have some mdf in the heated part of the shop but the plywood is sitting out in about 7 degrees & won't be veneerable until tomorrow(with unibond 800).

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[Paul B. Cresti]

I am about to start building this audio cab. An early start on next xmas. The top will be a mitered frame around a veneered panel. The question is whether to use mdf or plywood as the substrate. I have done a lot of veneering using plywood but not mdf.
My concern is the strength of the mdf when someone lifts the cabinet by the top. I plan on using biscuits to attach the frame.

I would also like to use mdf for some other planned projects in the future with veneered tops. I have been reluctant to use mdf in the past fearing the lack of strength.
Part of my immediate problem is that I have some mdf in the heated part of the shop but the plywood is sitting out in about 7 degrees & won't be veneerable until tomorrow(with unibond 800).

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Jeff,
I like your design very much. I too was about to make an audio/visual center for my last house but ended up moving instead. A couple of suggestions I have are: The shelves for your audio equipment should be made out of very thick and solid material (maybe a mdf and solid void plywood) in order to deaden any vibrations. You may also want to use vibropods under your equipment to isolate vebrations further. You will alos need to provide for venting for the equipment. Audio equipments produces a lot of heat. Providing some type of air space behind is all that may be needed. This may be produce with some type of baffles that are staggered to give a solid back appearance fron the front. Also there should be at least 3 inches of clearance from the top of the equipment to the top of the shelf above it. I think Fine Woodworking had a good article on entertainment desgin a couple of years ago. Good luck.

[Dan Dubeau]

Great design. I think the MDF will be strong enough for the top. I used it to build a subwoofer. It weighs over 150 lbs and i have no problem lifting it by the top. I don't do it frequently but when i do move it, it holds up well.

One question though, what program did you use for that drawing it looks great. I have autocad 2002 but it doesn't do my 3d designs justice. I need a program for 3d modeling that i can impose a wood grain on the pieces to make them stand out. Thanks

Dan

[Jeff Royle]

Great design. I think the MDF will be strong enough for the top. I used it to build a subwoofer. It weighs over 150 lbs and i have no problem lifting it by the top. I don't do it frequently but when i do move it, it holds up well.

One question though, what program did you use for that drawing it looks great. I have autocad 2002 but it doesn't do my 3d designs justice. I need a program for 3d modeling that i can impose a wood grain on the pieces to make them stand out. Thanks

Dan
I used a demo(download) copy of SketchUp. I guess I shouldn't waste my time learning it - I think the lic. cost is about $500.

[Jamie Buxton]

Jeff ---
Re your question about lifting the cabinet from the top.... The joint that you worry might get ripped apart is between the lumber frame of the side wall and the lumber frame of the top. The substrate under the veneer has nothing to do with it. You can make it with anything you like.
MDF can be used as a veneer substrate --- look at all the commercial furniture out there -- but it has a couple drawbacks in my experience. First, it is not as stiff as plywood; an MDF shelf will sag more under the same load as a plywood one. Second, MDF takes a set. That is, if you leave an MDF shelf under heavy load for a while, the sag becomes permanent. In contrast, a plywood shelf will spring back straight when the load is removed.
The third drawback to MDF for me is that I hate working with the stuff. It makes very fine sawdust that hangs in the air forever. MDF sawdust on the floor is astonishingly slippery.

I used to use MDF for veneering, but I've gone back to using plywood.

[Chris Padilla]

I used a demo(download) copy of SketchUp. I guess I shouldn't waste my time learning it - I think the lic. cost is about $500.Jeff,

I, too, have downloaded my 8-hour license for this program. After I saw the price tag, I'm not so sure I should get myself hooked on it.

For now, I am using some software from Punch! called Architectural Design Series 18 (http://www.punchsoftware.com/index.htm). They have a program in there called "3D Custom Workshop" and one called "Cabinet Wizard". I use the 3D Custom Workshop to work on an EC design for my home:

http://members.roadfly.com/agent99/EC-rendering.jpg

It looks pretty good here but I have to tell you that it takes some doing to get it all working. The 'workshop' definately could use some improvments but overall, I like the software (eventually plan to put my whole house in it so I can play with modifications) and the website has a lot of folks supporting it. Also, the price was $150 to my doorstep.

[Dave Avery]

Jeff,

MDF will be fine for the substrate. Dave.

[Dan Dubeau]

Thanks Jeff and Chris, i'll definetly check those out.