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Alan Case
07-27-2007, 4:36 AM
Does anyone here have a recommendation for a small spray gun (ie as used by model makers) to use for applying cermark.
Regards Alan

James Stokes
07-27-2007, 5:59 AM
I buy the $3 airbrush from Harbor Freight.

John Minton
07-27-2007, 10:55 AM
I am trying to spray but not having much luck with even coat. Sometimes it looks good after engraving but part of it will wash off.

Thanks

John

James Stokes
07-27-2007, 11:24 AM
John, You probably need to thin it down more. With Cermark I thin it to a water consistancy. I usually put on 2 coats.

Brian Robison
07-27-2007, 11:56 AM
What wattage, speed, power are you using?

Mike Ireland
07-27-2007, 12:43 PM
Home Depot sells something called the 'Preval Spray Gun'. It's a small bottle with a compressed air can attached.

Sean Weir
08-10-2007, 9:23 AM
Hello Alan,

I've attached a file that outlines the spray equipment we recommend. Thin our paste with ethanol or denatured alcohol as necessary to achieve a good smooth spray, we recommend about 1 part ethanol to 1 part paste by volume. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

Regards,

Sean


Sean Weir
Ferro Corporation
CerMark Laser Marking Materials
251 West Wylie Ave.
Washington, PA 15301
Phone: (724) 229-5161
Email: weirs@ferro.com

Mark Koenig
08-10-2007, 9:27 AM
How about the spray can??? Only asking because I just ordered one for a job next week...

Mark.

Sean Weir
08-10-2007, 9:40 AM
Hello Mark,

I've attached spray can instructions and a tech sheets, if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Regards,

Sean

Sean Weir
Ferro Corporation
CerMark Laser Marking Materials
251 West Wylie Ave.
Washington, PA 15301
Phone: (724) 229-5161
Email: weirs@ferro.com

Mark Koenig
08-10-2007, 9:47 AM
Thanks for the reply... What setting do you recommend for a 75 Watt laser engraving on chrome???

(LaserBits Chrome License Plate and some brand ner motorcycle master cylinder covers)

Thanks Mark.

Sean Weir
08-10-2007, 1:12 PM
Hello Mark,

Chrome can be problematic sometimes. The base metal that is under the chrome can have an effect on the power settings, and where the chrome came from can also have an effect. Chrome baths can vary from plater to plater, and some of the platers in the far east keep little control over their baths. Some of them are very dirty and contaminated with other metals so the quality is not as good. Because of this, chrome from Taiwan and China will have different properties than US chrome. Chrome from US sources, such as Harley Davidson usually works very well. The same part from aftermarket sources that use chrome from Taiwan and China will usually mark but may not give acceptable results at any power level, with poor appearance, little contrast, or even flaking of the chrome.

For your laser, I would recommend a starting point of 100% power and about 20-30% speed. If you are able to do some test marking, I'd recommend doing a test power grid. Do several small squares at 100% power and vary your writing speed up and down to find a setting that gets you a nice black mark that won't come off.

Regards,

Sean

Mark Koenig
08-10-2007, 4:47 PM
I'm skeered now but have committed to the job...:eek:

It's Yamaha factory chrome but all I can do is try... At least this one time anyway... I have been warned and so has my customer...

Will replace the motorcycle parts if it does not come out but I know what you are saying about uncontrollable processes... You can't account for every idiot out there...

Thanks Mark...

Shane Turner
08-10-2007, 8:26 PM
I've got a related question.

I'm used to doing stainless steel with cermark. I use the aerosol can at the moment because jobs of this type are still infrequent.

I've just got a aluminium plate to mark. With steel I use 25 speed and 100 power on my Epilog 45. I've heard aluminium is a littel harder to mark. Any suggestions on settings?

-Shane

Sean Weir
08-13-2007, 5:20 PM
Hello Shane,

I would guess you'll need to cut your speed to at least 10%. You may need to go lower depending on the mass of the part, a thicker piece will act as a bigger heat sink and soak up more of the laser energy. You can also increase the DPI to get more heat in your mark.

Hope this helps....

Regards,

Sean

Frank Corker
08-14-2007, 7:11 AM
I bought a small Am-Tech mini air brush kit, I mix my cermark, then I take the small hose out of the back of my laser and use the Epilog compressor to power my sprayer. Works fine!

Mark Koenig
08-14-2007, 5:47 PM
Hello Mark,

Chrome can be problematic sometimes. The base metal that is under the chrome can have an effect on the power settings, and where the chrome came from can also have an effect. Chrome baths can vary from plater to plater, and some of the platers in the far east keep little control over their baths. Some of them are very dirty and contaminated with other metals so the quality is not as good. Because of this, chrome from Taiwan and China will have different properties than US chrome. Chrome from US sources, such as Harley Davidson usually works very well. The same part from aftermarket sources that use chrome from Taiwan and China will usually mark but may not give acceptable results at any power level, with poor appearance, little contrast, or even flaking of the chrome.

For your laser, I would recommend a starting point of 100% power and about 20-30% speed. If you are able to do some test marking, I'd recommend doing a test power grid. Do several small squares at 100% power and vary your writing speed up and down to find a setting that gets you a nice black mark that won't come off.

Regards,

Sean

Awe... SWEET Success Sean!!! Thank you so much for the information and settings...;)

It worked fantastically but the owner grabbed the and threw them on the bike before I got a pic...

My Wife also loves the front license plate I made for her as a test...

Thanks from a satisfied customer...:D

Take Care, Mark...

owen booth
05-16-2010, 6:37 AM
Hi Guys,
I have a Redsail M900 60W CO2 laser that seems to blow away the Cermark and Thermark product. I've tried the Pastes, and the Tapes too at the recommended settings without any luck. I've even dropped the power, increased speeds to the point where it doesn't blow the product away, but it doesn't fuse either.Does anyone have any recommended settings I could try for my 60W machine? 20,000 pwm is the default frequency setting, if that means anything to anyone. Thanks in advance , regards,
Owen

Gary Hair
05-16-2010, 11:57 AM
Owen,
If the Cermark is not sticking at all then you probably have it too thick. You need to thin it to the consistency of skim milk and spray it on so that you can just barely see the shine of the metal through the Cermark. Start by spraying it so thin that you think it can't possibly work - you'll be surprised.
If that doesn't solve the problem then it could be the metal. Make sure it's clean and doesn't have any kind of protective coating. Start with some 20 gage 304 stainless that has been run through a timesaver, this will ensure no coating and also give the Cermark some tooth to stick to.
With a 60 watt laser I would start with 100% power and 60% speed and slow it down in 5% increments until you get a good mark. Too much power, or too little speed, results in a mark that is brown/tan/beige instead of black. If you get that then increase the speed by 5% until it goes back to black.

Gary

frazer ross
10-27-2010, 7:37 PM
Hi Guys,
I have a Redsail M900 60W CO2 laser that seems to blow away the Cermark and Thermark product. I've tried the Pastes, and the Tapes too at the recommended settings without any luck. I've even dropped the power, increased speeds to the point where it doesn't blow the product away, but it doesn't fuse either.Does anyone have any recommended settings I could try for my 60W machine? 20,000 pwm is the default frequency setting, if that means anything to anyone. Thanks in advance , regards,
Owen

Hey Owen,

Did you get anywhere with this (I have the same machine)? I'm experiencing the same problem and was wondering if you figured out the proper settings?

cheers,

Frazer