TS modifications

[Robert Ducharme]

I am having a hard time deciding exactly what modifications to make to my TS. Currently have a Delta Platinum Unisaw (left hand tilt). Here are my goals:

Built in router table (Jessem 02101 with PC 7518). I am building this
with a cabinet beneath it

Fence that can be used with both saw and router
- Leaning toward Incra (TS-3a, TS-LS, or TS-LS Joinery Sys)
currently have Biesemeyer. What is the right version or is there
another model I should be looking at. Want stability/accuracy/
ease of use. What are the differences of the different Incra
models? Dust collection for router important.

I want a Blade Guard that has a good dust collection. Current
options include (would really like 4" tube):
- Biesemeyer (only has 2.5") hose (what impact of converting
to Incra?
- Excalibur (has 3" tube)
- Exaktor (do not like that it does not float over the work but
the height must be adjusted.

Should I keep current splitter and remove the current blade cover?
Or should I get like the disappearing splitter from Biesemeyer?

Finally, a sliding table added to the left side of the table saw. I know
that there are issues related with tilting the blade. Therefore, what
one would make the most sense and what are the impacts of using
them. My goal is to be able to cross-cut 4x8 panels. However, I
still need to rip boards. Choices (highest priority first) are:
- Robland large extension (I cannot find any references to just
the sliding portion). Maybe Laguna Tools?
- Excalibur - however, I do not like the comments I have seen
about the exterior legs and the need to remove it to do rips.
- Delta - I guess I could use a supporting extension
- Exaktor - seems a cheaper version of the Excalibur
-Jet

[Bart Leetch]

You'll find that some install the router in the right table close to the saw so that when feeding the material you stand on the same side of the saw as you would when using the saw.

I prefer to install the router in the table so I can stand at the end of the extension table as I would if running a Shaper or Jointer. I feel this way I have a little more control & it is safer. I don't feel that I would be as safe reaching over to the back side of the table to control the out-feed.

Its a matter of comfort. In this case comfort = safety.

With the Incra or Jointech I think it might be hard to have the router in the right extension table close to the right end, I could be wrong about this. I do think it would work better in the left extension table.

This would not allow for a sliding table. But if I had to choose between a router table mounted so it was comfortable to work with & a sliding table I would have the router table In the left extension table & a Jointech fence & a panel-saw.

[EliotMason]

Robert:

I know some people really love their Incra TS3a, and the new LS version is an improvement. But I've taken mine off the saw and but the DeWalt fence back on. The precision is nice, but I had a hard time keeping it square.

I'm moving my router to the right side extension table. Then I'm going to install the hardware so that I can mount the Incra fence to the table (not to the rails). I figure from there I can flip the fence to work on the TS or on the router as needed, but can use the standard TS fence for most operations that don't require me to sneak up on such precision.

My $.02, keep the fence you've got then add the router system of your choice. As for the rest...I haven't gone there yet.

[Robert Ducharme]

Eliot

what caused the incra to get out of square? do the ends not clamp in? Or do they grab as they move?

[Chris Padilla]

Eliot,

I am curious as well. My Incra is awesome and stays square.


Robert,

I have the III-a (got a GREAT deal off a guy on eBay...take a gander) and am not as familiar with their newer stuff.

Your router table could go in either end and the Incra should be fine...you might have to adjust where the rails sit and/or adjust where the fence "holder" sits. You'll see what I mean if/when you get one. I swear by Incra...great stuff and the accuracy is fantastic.

I dunno much about blade guards...never even installed mine on my Grizzly although I did take advantage of the GRRipper deal SMC has set up for its member...picked up 2.

I prefer to make my own splitters out of hardwood (whatever is laying around) and attach it permanently to my zero-clearance insert. I have serveral inserts for different blades and different purposes (i.e dado w/ no splitter). It is pretty quick to grab the insert I want off the wall and plop it into the hole.

Sliding table would be nice...I don't have one so it is "fun" cutting up 4x8 panels. I often find myself on the garage floor, propped up with a piece of 1" foam insulation, my straight-edge, and my Skil wormdrive saw to cut panels into manageable pieces. :)

[Jeff Skory]

Chris,

You mentioned that you make your own splitters that you build into your TS inserts. What exactly do they look like and how do you make them? I hate the splitter than came with my saw. It's a 5 minute job to take it off or put it on.

Thanks,

Jeff Skory

[JayStPeter]

I am having a hard time deciding exactly what modifications to make to my TS. Currently have a Delta Platinum Unisaw (left hand tilt). Here are my goals:

I want a Blade Guard that has a good dust collection. Current
options include (would really like 4" tube):
- Biesemeyer (only has 2.5") hose (what impact of converting
to Incra?
- Excalibur (has 3" tube)
- Exaktor (do not like that it does not float over the work but
the height must be adjusted.

Should I keep current splitter and remove the current blade cover?
Or should I get like the disappearing splitter from Biesemeyer?


I have the old Excalibur blade guard, that is now the Exaktor. I like the Excalibur I saw at the last show. That'd be my recomendation. Looks like the DC would be better and it is lots more sturdy.

As for the splitter, Delta makes one that comes with the uniguard. You can get the part# from Mark Goodalls happywoodworking dot com website. Look under one of his Unisaw sections. Compared to the Biesmeyer, it takes an extra second to put on/take off and it's black instead of chrome. It cost me $30 including shipping from Delta.

Jay

[EliotMason]

Robert & Chris:

I'm of a mixed mind on the Incra. When locked in place, front and rear, it's as solid as anything. I found that when clamping the front end to the rail it was all too easy to push the fence a wee bit one way or the other. It's a tiny little difference, but it was noticeable in the cut, especially on long rips. Also, the grabber-doohickey needed adjustment to re-square a couple of times a year. And when I slid the carriage down the rails so I could use it as a router fence for the left side mounted router, and then slid it back to the TS position -even with the position bolts snug- it just always seemed to lose square. And I got tired of reaching way out to the right side to adjust and check the length. But maybe I'm lazy :D

Maybe it's my unit, maybe I'm rough on it.

Of course, just today when making the jig to make the hole for the router plate in my new right side table I missed the accuracy of the unit. :( My Stanley tape measure isn't accurate and the whole measure the distance between blade and fence gets really tiresome. Not an issue with the Incra.

So I'm forging ahead with my combined system idea. When used on the router, it doesn't need to be square. When I want to use it on the TS then I can tinker to get it square. But when I don't need that accuracy, the T fence meets my needs more effectively.

I'll report on it when its all done.