Chip out

[Burt Alcantara]

Not sure if that is the correct term. I'm making small boxes, somewhere between 1" - 2". So far, the only wood I've used is kd quartersawn white oak and maple of unknown species. Both came from the only decent yard in the area.

When cutting lids, beads, tenons, rims, there is always small pieces of wood that break away. I'm using techniques from Richard Raffan and Alan Lacer.

For now, I'm not too concerned but there is a group project coming up that I'll be submitting to and I don't want to submit an inferior work.

The project will involve turning green wood using 3 - 5 different species but I get the chance to dry them myself.

Can you offer suggestions to help eliminate this problem?

Thanks,
Burt

[Rich Stewart]

Sharper tools?

[Don Orr]

Lighter cuts ? Rub the bevel and cut with the grain-from largest diameter to smaller in spindle orientation turning between centers.


Practice, practice, practice.:D

[Burt Alcantara]

I'm doing all of that. This problem appears on small things. The smaller I go the bigger the problem. I've looked at my bowls with a magnifying glass and do not see these chip outs.

I'm going to try cutting groves into areas where I will cut up to to see if that reduces the chip out. Sort of like scoring on a table saw.

Burt

[TYLER WOOD]

Kiln dried wood is giong to split a lot more than green wood. Try a log and see. I was having the same problem with kd red oak and ash. It would split like crazy along the grain lines. I think the wood just looses some much structural integrity where the grain lines don't have much to hold on to. Plus oak is a porous wood, so that doesn't help either.

[Tom Sherman]

Burt, when you are preparing to cut off your lid or make your tenon you might try cutting a small V groove and be sure to make a clean shoulder cut with a skew and not just the parting tool.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Burt I have had that same problem with quartersawn oak and other woods. I don't use wood cut that way anymore.

[Allen Neighbors]

Burt, you might try a lacquer wash. 25%Lacquer/75%Thinner, apply evenly wet, with a soft rag. Allow to dry 5 minutes. Make your final cuts light ones.
The wash will soak in pretty fast, and acts as a sealer to bolster the grainy wood to keep it from splitting out so badly. After final sanding, you can still apply an oil finish if you wish. I use it on almost every piece I turn.