How do you assemble your cabinet carcasses?

[Sam Shank]

I'm sure there are as many ways as there are people, projects or materials. But while sawing and gluing my upper kitchen cabinets last night, I was wondering if there was a more efficient way that would still be strong enough.

Using 3/4" prefinished maple ply for the tops and sides and 1/2" for the back I made dadoes in the sides for the top, bottom, and back, and a dadoe in the top for the back. I glued it all together and then used screws instead of clamps (which I have done in the past w/o screws) so that I could do more than 1 at a time (limited number of longer clamps). Plus, clamping is so clumsy.

Is there a better way for prefinished stuff?

Looking forward to your responses

[Jim Becker]

I used to use dados, grooves and rebates. I now use pocket screws and butt joints with glue as well as countersunk screws where appropriate. No fuss, no muss. Perfectly square with minimal clamping. Fast, too. (For your pre-finished material, a little sanding at the glue joint would be appropriate if you want to use glue)

[frank shic]

Sam, I used 3/4" melamine for the cabinet sides, tops, bottoms and shelves and 1/4" melamine for the backs. I run a 1/4" dado 3/4" in from the back and fasten the sides to the tops and bottoms initially with a couple of 18 gauge staples and then follow it up with confirmat screws. ABSOLUTELY NO RABBETS - it takes an extra step and does not improve the strength of the overall case. I can assemble one every 15 minutes using this method. I agree that clamping is majorly CLUMSY and trying to manipulate the cabinet with all those bessey's attached to it is a major pain in the back!

[Matt Newton]

Sam, I just finished redoing my entire kitchen cabinets. I used pocket screws for the carcasses as well as for attaching the face frames. I used biscuits for the bottom edge to locate them better. Not using clamps makes it go much quicker. Good luck.

Matt

[Peter Pedisich]

Sam,

Jim's method has worked well for me on several occasions...
but I learned the hard way to make sure your saws are cutting perfectly square edges because the pocket hole screws will not tolerate out of square joints.

Pete

[Alex Elias]

I still use the old groove glue and clamps and agree about the whole proccess being tedious but... is it correct that a dry butt joint with only scews has the sme strenght as the groove with glue and some mechanical fastener?
Wall cabinets with dinerware are extremely eavy and I think I would be concern about a dry butt joint. But I'd be courious to see what others have to say.
Alex

[Scott Loven]

I used to use dados, grooves and rebates. I now use pocket screws and butt joints with glue as well as countersunk screws where appropriate. No fuss, no muss. Perfectly square with minimal clamping. Fast, too. (For your pre-finished material, a little sanding at the glue joint would be appropriate if you want to use glue)
I used some 3/4 melamine paper over particle board (4*8 sheet from the Borg around $25 a sheet) for uppers in the kitchen. I don't think I used any screws, just roo glue and rabates/dado's. They are full of heavy dishes. I would be nervous to use pocket holes in melamine covered particle board, but would end have any problems with using them with good plywood.

Scott

[Al Willits]

"""""""""
I can assemble one every 15 minutes using this method.
"""""""""

Good god man, can we get the mods to delete this post???
My wife, the Beastmaster... ever sees "a cabinet in 15 mins" and life will end for me...no more "I'll be spending the day in the garage dear making cabinets" She'll actually want to see progress not only in a weeks time, but the same day...:eek:

I am getting a bit better, but this noob ain't telling how long his first cabinet took, or the second....or the third come to think of it...:D

Al....who thinks if it wasn't for the do overs, it'd go a lot quicker though...:)

[Michael Schwartz]

I Use Pocket Screws, Pocket screws, and More Pocket screws.

Seriously, they are great.

[Sam Shank]

I'm using the dadoes because I _think_ they're stronger. They're more of a PITA to lay out, due to calculations of dado depth, etc. It can get tricky.

To see just how strong they really need to be, see this video. They need to hold 1) all your usual kitchen stuff 2) a teenager and 3) a beer bong. I found this video doing a search for kitchen cabinets.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9xamPd9OBE

How do you attach your backs if you just use butt joints? Screws?


I still use the old groove glue and clamps and agree about the whole proccess being tedious but... is it correct that a dry butt joint with only scews has the sme strenght as the groove with glue and some mechanical fastener?
Wall cabinets with dinerware are extremely eavy and I think I would be concern about a dry butt joint. But I'd be courious to see what others have to say.
Alex

[Tim Reagan]

Where do you put the pocket holes on the bottom piece? It would be visible from the bottom and top, wouldnt it?

[richard poitras]

I make my cabinets the same why you do but instead of clamping the cabinets and waiting for the glue to dry or putting screws in them, I just use white glue in the groves for the strength, but to hold them together as the glue dries I use a bead of hot melt glue it goes really fast do to the fact hot melt dry stead fast in seconds

[Don Taylor]

I have started using my DowelMax for almost all of the joints I need to put my new shop together. The joints are extremely sturdy and easy to make. The more I use it the more applications I find that I can apply concept too.

http://www.dowelmax.com/on-line_reviews.htm

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/9-3-2005008.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/9-3-2005014.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/DisplayChest.jpg

I have even used it on more than one occasion to make a board longer so as not to have to buy another one for the project. You have to look very close to tell it's not "One" board and the joint is stronger than the rest of the board.

One great thing about the dowels, once you have finished with your dry assembly and apply the glue, the project will hold itself together while you add a clamp or two. You don't need three hands.

Yes, I still use clamps with them although I have seen times when they simply weren't needed. By ordering a set of Cauls, I have significantly cut down the amount of clamps I would need in any situation.

http://www.bowclamp.com/

The way I look at it, if I am going to pre-drill a hole for a screw, why not stick a dowel in it? I don’t give a thought to splitting the board.

I am not affiliated with any of these fine folks. The systems just work for me.

DT

[John Russell]

I have thought of using a similar approach to dowels (festool dominio) even though it might take a bit more time. For cabinets that will have a lot of heavy and expensive glass in them, this seems like a very stout approach. Nice work ...

[Alex Elias]

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/DisplayChest.jpg

I have even used it on more than one occasion to make a board longer so as not to have to buy another one for the project. You have to look very close to tell it's not "One" board and the joint is stronger than the rest of the board.



I believe you could do that but I doubt that the joint is stronger than the wood itself; I doubt it is actually strong at all to support weight, may be for a side panel could be fine. I think if you make a shelve with that joint in the center and put boock or some weight to it, that is going to be the weak point. The glue there is not doing much at all since you are gluing end grain so the only strenght of that joint are the dowels I guess 3/8" diameter 3/4" deep on each face of the board with about 1/8" wall thickness on top and bottom on a tipical 3/4" thick board.
Alex

[frank shic]

Alex, have you seen how FAT a confirmat screw is? The cabinets are strong enough to hang from if you're so inclined and you don't waste all that time gluing and clamping and then wiping off the squeeze-out. Al, tell your wife that this only applies to UPPER cabinets. The base cabinets take a little while longer (maybe twenty minutes instead) to assemble because of the drawers and drawer slides although this has become much easier since I abandoned melamine drawers for metaboxes. Sam, I slide the 1/4" back into the dado and fasten with 5/8" brad nails. Tim, pocket screws will DEFINITELY show on the bottom but if you're attaching a face frame to it, most people won't notice unless they stick their inquiring heads underneath and look up (like me!). As far as the dowelmax and festool dominos go, well, I suppose they're alright if you're not in a rush or if you're turning out furniture-grade stand-alone cabinets.

[Don Taylor]

I have thought of using a similar approach to dowels (festool dominio) even though it might take a bit more time. For cabinets that will have a lot of heavy and expensive glass in them, this seems like a very stout approach. Nice work ...

Thanks John but before there is any confusion about those pictures being "My" work, it isn't. Thay are pictures off the DowelMax site. :o

DT

[Bryan Rygiel]

Regarding strength, this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhLfb7m9Fug) was just posted on SMC not too long ago. Edit: There was a recent article comparing joints and their strengths, etc. I forget what mag off the top of my head. :(

If you're using pocket screws in a visible location, they sell filler plugs in some of the more popular woods. I like them the best, I think. Easy cheesy and strong.

[Don Taylor]

I believe you could do that but I doubt that the joint is stronger than the wood itself; I doubt it is actually strong at all to support weight, may be for a side panel could be fine. I think if you make a shelve with that joint in the center and put boock or some weight to it, that is going to be the weak point. The glue there is not doing much at all since you are gluing end grain so the only strenght of that joint are the dowels I guess 3/8" diameter 3/4" deep on each face of the board with about 1/8" wall thickness on top and bottom on a tipical 3/4" thick board.
Alex

Hi Alex,
I'm sure I don't have the experience or frame of reference that you do but I did build this corner counter using only Dowels and glue.

http://dontee.sistmllc.com/cornercounter/index.html

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/image207.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/100_1556.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/100_1168.jpg

That chest you see on the hoist is my 20-year bin. (Nut and bolt etc. cabinet) It weighs almost as much as my Ex-Wife! :eek: (Or a small Buick)
It rested on the weakest point of this counter (about where you see the chair) for over 2-1/2 months before I finally hoisted it up onto one of my rolling toolboxes. No sag no breaks and no separation. I can't think of any reason at all I would need for the joints to be stronger than that. :confused:

DT

[Jeff Raymond]

I rabbet/rout the backs/tops/bottoms of the cabinet and shelves prior to assembly.

Then you have a tad less than 3/8" inch on assembly with a bit-a-glue, pre-tapped screw holes. When you pop the back it, it is square, everything fits and you can move on.

So easy a Caveman can do it.

And strong enough to support MY ex-wfe as well.

Oh well.

[Tim Wagner]

Where do you put the pocket holes on the bottom piece? It would be visible from the bottom and top, wouldn't it?

I have seen Pocket Hole plugs for sale. although I've never used them.

[Tim Wagner]

what about Dovtail Dados, or vertical dovetail joints, for lack of a better term.

[Bob Feeser]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Taylor http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=626639#post626639)
I have started using my DowelMax for almost all of the joints I need to put my new shop together. The joints are extremely sturdy and easy to make. The more I use it the more applications I find that I can apply concept too.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/9-3-2005008.jpg

DT

Don,
I have to totally agree with you. I was blown away with the accuracy of the Dowelmax system. CNC machined to tolerances within 1/1000th of an inch. When putting together face frames, the wood comes together without any variations along the seams, along every surface and plane. No need to sand anything, that is just how accurate it is. Run your finger over the seam, and it feels like one piece of wood. Also the amount of time to put together a face frame joint is less than 3 minutes. No need for the complexity of mortise and tenon joinery, and no holes to fill or hide, like when using pocket hole joinery.

I got a second main unit, in addition to the complete Dowelmax kit, so I can leave one set up for face frames, and use the second one already set up for attaching the cabinets to the face frames. Saves times in that you do not need to reconfigure the jig for each run. (Not that it takes that long to do so, it is strictly a production consideration)

I have and love the Kreg pocket hole joinery kit, the Powermatic hollow chisel mortising full floor standing model, and a good biscuit cutter, and a Delta tenoning jig, but nothing beats the ease of use, time, and accuracy of the Dowelmax for face frame and cabinet construction.

Pertaining to strength, since the dowels guides are spaced so closely together, in the jig, you have the option of creating a lot of dowels in a very small space. Notwithstanding, for cabinets your can spread the holes out very easily, because the kit comes with a perfectly sized 3/8" rod, that enables you to slide the jig over to a new position, and slide the rod down through the jig, into one of the already drilled holes, and get perfect registration, aligning the tool for a whole new set of holes. So you could easily put a dowel as close as you want, over the entire surface of cabinet to face frame, even though that is not neccessary.

Consider the video that Bryan posted http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhLfb7m9Fug in the woodworking joint torture test, using the pull apart test, they tested a butt joint piece only 1 3/4" wide, and only having 2 dowels in it, and at 1,998 pounds of pressure, the wood separated, away from the joint, while the dowel joint showed no signs of separating or weakening in any way. So the wood failed, while the dowel joint held on. That is only with 2 dowels in a butt joint similar to one you would use putting a face frame together, joining a rail to a stile. That whole frame is then doweled once again, to the cabinet frame, giving it even more strength. Can I exaggerate? I didn't plan on parking my car on my kitchen cabinets, but you just about could with this setup. (See the above video, because pictures tell a better story than words.)

Remember this thing is machined to a thousandth accuracy, so even though doing something like referencing off of prior holes is not in the scope of normal reasoning for doweling technology, but with the Dowelmax it is. Of course putting a zillion holes across the cabinet to face frame butt joint is not neccessary, but having that capabilty, to whatever degree you desire, should quell any other concerns about strength.

"I am not affiliated with any of these fine folks. The systems just work for me."

I know how you feel, after using one, it makes you sound like you are working for the company. It is that good.

[Seth Poorman]

I still use the old groove glue and clamps and agree about the whole proccess being tedious but... is it correct that a dry butt joint with only scews has the sme strenght as the groove with glue and some mechanical fastener?
Wall cabinets with dinerware are extremely eavy and I think I would be concern about a dry butt joint. But I'd be courious to see what others have to say.
Alex

Alex
I agree w/ you on what you said about strength, and I understand what the guys are saying, but after building hundreds cabinets, I still feel the old fashion dado and glue are the best way to go !!!
Its not that bad when you get used to it .......

[Alex Elias]

Hi Alex,
I'm sure I don't have the experience or frame of reference that you do but I did build this corner counter using only Dowels and glue.

http://dontee.sistmllc.com/cornercounter/index.html

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/image207.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/100_1556.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/100_1168.jpg

That chest you see on the hoist is my 20-year bin. (Nut and bolt etc. cabinet) It weighs almost as much as my Ex-Wife! :eek: (Or a small Buick)
It rested on the weakest point of this counter (about where you see the chair) for over 2-1/2 months before I finally hoisted it up onto one of my rolling toolboxes. No sag no breaks and no separation. I can't think of any reason at all I would need for the joints to be stronger than that. :confused:

DT


I meant no ofence on the comment. I won't argue the ease of use of the dowels nor their strenght. I just mention that even if one could extend the lenght of a board with the dowel method I still would not suject that board to something like a shelf, unless (as you did with your corner unit) it has some sort of a frame or support underneath.
I don't think we want someone starting in our hobby to read about this topict and think that one can just extend the length of a board with dowel joints and not have issues after the project is done.
Also, now I want to get a dowelMax my self. It actually seems like a great addition, and I sicerely mean that.
Thanks for your pictures, that unit of yours seems strong enough to hold many ex wifes and one a few mother in laws too.

[Philip Glover]

It depends on the application / project, or how I'm feeling, but I use any of the following: pocket screws, dados, grooves, rebates, biscuits, dowels (Hoffmann PDS-32), and glue. I usually end up with glue and some combination of the above.

The good thing about screws, and sometimes dowels, is no clamps required.

Regards,
Phil

[Bob Childress]

Well, somebody has to say it, so I will. I used to cut the dadoes and rabbets, etc. and I agree it makes for a strong joint. But now I assemble all cabinets using Dominoes. They go together much more accurately and come up square every time. :)

Has cut my cabinet making time in just about 1/2.

[John Russell]

Bob,
Can you provide some detail about how many dominos, domino size, and where you place them.

Thanks,
John

Well, somebody has to say it, so I will. I used to cut the dadoes and rabbets, etc. and I agree it makes for a strong joint. But now I assemble all cabinets using Dominoes. They go together much more accurately and come up square every time. :)

Has cut my cabinet making time in just about 1/2.

[Mike Goetzke]

I know you just asked about carcasses, but, I would highly recommend this book:

Building Kitchen Cabinets by: Udo Schmidt

[Roland Chung]

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/Dontee47/100_1168.jpg

I didn't know that the Festool Vac was so strong. Does the boom arm increase the capacity?:eek:

[David Giles]

Danny Proulx's method of carcass construction is fast and easy. First make the face frame. Then cut the top and bottom 1/16" longer than the FF opening. Pockethole outside perimeter of top and bottom. Lay FF flat on bench and attach top and bottom with a 1/32" lip to cover the ply/melamine edge. Use appropriate glue and lots of right angle clamps.

Cut side pieces and pockethole outside edge of long sides. Butt and attach to FF and top/floor pieces. They will be inset about 1/32" due to the oversized top/bottom pieces. Slap on a back. The FF has already squared the case, so it doesn't have to be a perfect fit. Making the back and sides from the same board thickness is convenient, but can add some weight.

Cover pocket holes by butting cabinets together or adding 1/4" ply panels over the bottom and ends.

Pocket holes can be replaced with confirmat screws or Zip-R-Screws for case joints. The key is make the FF first, then fit the case to the opening.

[Jeff Wright]

I am having good success:

1] Assembling face frames using Dominoes
2] Using the Sommerfeld offset tongue and groove cutters for most of the joined edges (floor to face frame which results in a perfect alignment of the floor surface to the top edge of the lower face frame rail, the sides to the face frame stiles, the upper and lower nail rails to the sides)
3] Pocket screwing where out of sight once installed
4] Glue in any of the tongue and grooved joints.

The offset tongue and groove joinery results in near-perfect alignment. The Domino allows fast, accurate and strong joinery of the face frame components.

It may not be the fastest method, but then I am not running a production shop.

[brian j waloweek]

personally i prefer to use the biscut jointer my lovely girlfriend,lori, bought me. for the face frame i use the kreg pocket hole jig. i always liked the strength of the biscut joint. and it gives lori the opportunity to remind me
who bought this glorious machine for me. and for our kitchen we used baltic birch ply and yellow sap birch for the doors and frames.
long live the biscut jointer!!!!:p

[Steve Clardy]

I love pocket screws, but do not use them for cab box construction, due to you cannot hide all the pocket holes every time.

I only use pocket screws for face frame assembly.

I use a simple strap method.

I feel like that most of the time, dados for top/bottoms/shelves are a waste of time.

First here is a 1 1/4 wide strap, glued and nailed on the cab side.
I leave a 1 1/4 space under all upper cabinets for lighting.
69157

Next comes time for the adjustable shelving holes.
69158
Then glue is applied the the top of the strap where the cab bottom sits.
69159
Then the bottom is nailed on with 5 18ga 1 1/2 brads.
69160
Then the top is attached.
69161

[Steve Clardy]

Next comes the cabinet hanging strap. Cut to length at the same time the top and bottoms were cut.
69163

Here is the finished box. Simple and effective.
69164

Tommorow I will do the face frame assembly, construction and installation.;)

[frank shic]

Steve, are you nailing or stapling a back on afterwards?

[Steve Clardy]

Back gets stapled on after the stain and finish are applied, and out of the finish room. :)

[Josiah Bartlett]

I used some 3/4 melamine paper over particle board (4*8 sheet from the Borg around $25 a sheet) for uppers in the kitchen. I don't think I used any screws, just roo glue and rabates/dado's. They are full of heavy dishes. I would be nervous to use pocket holes in melamine covered particle board, but would end have any problems with using them with good plywood.

Scott

I did that in my garage with douglas fir face frames, except I used pocket screws and glue, not rebates. I have a cast iron Saginaw 4 speed transmission sitting on one shelf and a 5 gallon bucket of paint on another. Over the past 2 years I've had zero creep.

[Mark J Bachler]

I have a panel router with stops set up for my basic dados, that with a shaper w/ power feed for rabbets. I pocket screw the rails, groove for a 1/4" back, 3/8 tongue the bottoms in the uppers (panel router). I miter (tilting arbor on the shaper) the finished end panels to the face frames . 3/4 birch or melamine interiors, whatever they want to pay for. Roo glued & screwed. Pocket screw the face frames together, bisquit and clamp them to the cabinets. I'm not the fastest cabinetmaker on the block but it's just the way I was taught.

[Don Taylor]

I didn't know that the Festool Vac was so strong. Does the boom arm increase the capacity?:eek:

Yeah Roland, that CT 33 really sucks! :D

DT

[Don Taylor]

I meant no ofence on the comment. I won't argue the ease of use of the dowels nor their strenght. I just mention that even if one could extend the lenght of a board with the dowel method I still would not suject that board to something like a shelf, unless (as you did with your corner unit) it has some sort of a frame or support underneath.
I don't think we want someone starting in our hobby to read about this topict and think that one can just extend the length of a board with dowel joints and not have issues after the project is done.
Also, now I want to get a dowelMax my self. It actually seems like a great addition, and I sicerely mean that.
Thanks for your pictures, that unit of yours seems strong enough to hold many ex wifes and one a few mother in laws too.

No offence taken at all Alex. I whole heartedly agree, if you are going to extend a board this way, know where you are going to place it and what you will expect of it. No need taking chances.
One needs to remember that the natural strength of the wood has been breached. And even though the dowel joint is a strong one, it is always possible that there is a fault in the joint itself. (Poor glueup, cracks in the joint that can't be seen etc.)
If you look very closely in front of that chair in my picture, you will notice that the board I extended "is" a shelf board. However, it rests flat on the floor. ;)
Please do bring it to my attention if I make a statement that will lead a newcomer to woodworking in the wrong direction.

DT

[Steve Clardy]

Simple face using 2" wide material.

Parts cut
69207


Cutting pocket holes
69208

Finished pocket hole
69209


Material ready, screws pre started
69210

[Steve Clardy]

Parts glued and clamped down to table.
No extra gizmo's to buy, just a pair of 11" visegrip C-grips with pads.
69211



Finished frame ready to install
69213

[frank shic]

Steve, you left out the 15 minutes of sanding to level out the face frame joints... wait a second, that's the OTHER pocket hole jig! Thanks for taking all of those helpful pics.

:D

[Steve Clardy]

Glue up and clamp in place. Flush one end to the finished end of cabinet.
69215



Gun nail from the inside. No fasteners show, no holes to fill ;)
I use a 3/4" 18ga nail, angled from the plywood to the face.
6921669217


Sand and take to finish room.
69218


Always leave some overhang on your face frame when butting cabinets together. This way the box doesn't interfere when you are attaching faces together. Especially do this when cabinet are wall to wall.
You have soemething to trim off if the cabinets are too tight.
69219

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Steve, Thanks for the demo, very interesting and makes a lot of sense. Could you explain your pocket hole cutter set up? Thanks Alan

[Steve Clardy]

Steve, you left out the 15 minutes of sanding to level out the face frame joints... wait a second, that's the OTHER pocket hole jig! Thanks for taking all of those helpful pics.

:D


Oops :o :D :D

Very seldom do I have a face joint that has to be ground down.

Angle of pockets really helps.

[Steve Clardy]

Steve, Thanks for the demo, very interesting and makes a lot of sense. Could you explain your pocket hole cutter set up? Thanks Alan

Sure. I will email it to you Alan.

[John Schreiber]

Thanks Steve, that's nice.

Is it a swinging router setup that cuts your pocket holes? What angle do they go in at? Looks much steeper than the standard jig.

[Steve Clardy]

Thanks Steve, that's nice.

Is it a swinging router setup that cuts your pocket holes? What angle do they go in at? Looks much steeper than the standard jig.


Yes. It has a PC690 router. 6 degree's. Almost straight.
Very seldom any creep when the screw is inserted.

[Bill White]

1/2" stuff for backs? Isn't that overkill? I've always used 1/4" ply or hardboard. And I have no idea why my font just changed.
Bill

[frank shic]

Bill, if you're using a nailer (horizontal piece that stretches across the top of the back) you could use thinner sheet stock although it requires you to buy two different sizes. I made my first set of kitchen cabinets completely out of 3/4" maple plywood so that I could screw through the backs when fastening to the wall. I don't do this anymore since I've adopted suspension wall brackets which allow me to get away with 1/4" as you mentioned.

Steve, that angled nail through the side into the face frame is a sly trick. Guess I won't pitch all of my bessey clamps just yet!

[Steve Clardy]

Bill, if you're using a nailer (horizontal piece that stretches across the top of the back) you could use thinner sheet stock although it requires you to buy two different sizes. I made my first set of kitchen cabinets completely out of 3/4" maple plywood so that I could screw through the backs when fastening to the wall. I don't do this anymore since I've adopted suspension wall brackets which allow me to get away with 1/4" as you mentioned.

Steve, that angled nail through the side into the face frame is a sly trick. Guess I won't pitch all of my bessey clamps just yet!

Thanks ;)

No holes to fill, and it doesn't tie up all your clamps.

[Von Bickley]

Yes. It has a PC690 router. 6 degree's. Almost straight.
Very seldom any creep when the screw is inserted.

Steve,

What about a thread on your pocket cutter. I know a lot of people could benefit from that....;)

[Bill Huber]

Steve !!!

That is really a very good tutorial on building a cabinet.
I have this thread bookmarked under cabinets.

Thank You Ever So Much...:) :) :) :)

[glenn bradley]

"Gun nail from the inside. No fasteners show, no holes to fill ;)
I use a 3/4" 18ga nail, angled from the plywood to the face."

That is one of the coolest tips I've seen. Thanks Steve.

[Aaron Hamilton]

I'm a beginning cabinetmaker having great success with:
1. Pocket screws on face frames (using the Kreg K3 Master)
2. Somerfeld offset tongue and groove (no nails in my faceframes!!)
3. Pocket screws for dividers inside drawer bays and exterior unfinished ends.
4. Nail-on cleats (or straps) similar to what Mr. Clardy does for added strength.

results in a crazy strong cabinet - and very little need for putty! Also allows you to easily "capture" the back panel so you don't have a million staples to put in!

[Steve Clardy]

Steve,

What about a thread on your pocket cutter. I know a lot of people could benefit from that....;)


I get a little extra time I will do that Von.

Thanks :D