Bandsaw problem

[Hans Kribbel]

I need your help guys.
I bought my first band saw (its the 14" from RIDGID) and I had no issues with the assembly.

No as I am trying to get a feel for the machine I seem to be to stupid to saw a straight cut.
I have a nice fence and I was thinking if I slide my woorkpiece along the fence my saw should produce a straight cut.
Well, it doesnt.
The blade does not hold a staight line and even in MDF it goes astray.
I thought I need to increase the tension of the blade a bit. But as far as I dared to tenision it, the difference was hardly noticable.
Should I crank up that tension wheel even more?
Is there any trick to the installation of the guid bars? (I set it up like in the manual described)

What is the solution?

BTW ! I had worked on other band saws, (big ones I admit) and I never had this problem.


Advice is apprechiated.

Thanks

Hans

[Steve Powell]

I also have the RIDGID bandsaw and had the same problem you mention. The first thing I did was to throw the blade that came with the saw in the garbage and install a Timberwolf blade. I installed cool blocks and then started setting up the fence for blade drift. Take a flat piece of stock and draw a straight line on it. Then follow (freehand) the line until you have about 12" of line cut. Turn off the saw while holding the piece in the position you were cutting. The angle of the piece is the blade drift. Adjust the fence angle to match the cut angle and you are set.

Just for info, when I put on the Timberwolf blade I had no drift angle. I hope you are as lucky.

[Jerry Todd]

Steve gave you some good advice. I had the same problem with my 18" Jet when I started doing bandsaw boxes. I installed a new Timberwolf 3/16 inch 10 TPI blade and it solved my problem. I also use a toothbrush sprayed with TopCote to lubricate the blade. Just my 2 cents.
Jerry

[CPeter James]

Timberwolf and Viking from Lee Valley are supposed to be one in the same. They seem to be to me as I have used both and can't tell the difference.

CPeter

[Mark Singer]

Steves' advice is perfect. Each saw and blade have a line they cut along and it is not usually the fence. But most fences can be adjusted. The blade will make a big difference. The larger bandsaws cut dead straight with a good blade. You could try moving the blade forward and backward on the tires. Make sure the thrust bearing starts to spin when cutting ( both upper and lower)
Mark

[Bud Duffy]

I to recently bought a Rigid 14" bandsaw and it cut 1 1/2 inches to the left in 6 inches with the stiock blade so i went to my local toy err tool store and picked up a new Olson blade ,i just had a hard time convincing myself that $35 for a timberwolf blade or $9 for an olson of the same exact size and it cuts just as straight as can be now . I didnt realy care for the guide set up so i also picked up a set of Carter guides for it, which i find to be much easier to set than the stock ones and safer to IMO. I found an article that stated that all they used 1/4inch skiptooth blades for everything,resawing down to bandsaw boxes . So i ordered a set of three for $41 including shipping from The BestThings in HerndonVA. and they cut straight with no perceptible bow .Carter does make a kit for the Rigid saw which i didnt know then but the Jet is the sane exact dimensions so evedently parts are interchangable between the two.

[Mark Singer]

Brad,
It is "THE BEST THINGS" . They do sell very great items including Ashley Iles, Lie Nielsen,Clifton,ECE Primus....I guess the sell "the best things"

[Mike Cutler]

Hans. You are definitely not "Stupid". The bandsaw is a little persnicity by nature. It just takes awhile to get one all tuned up, even the expensive models require a little "Fine Tuning". As the others have indicated, start with a better quality blade if possible, and then begin to compensate for drift. You may want to try a 3/8" blade with 6to 8TPI ( Teeth Per Inch). This is a good "all arounder" and you should be able to tension it properly and get a good feel for your saw. A 1/4" 12-14TPI is a good blade to begin practicing free hand curves, it will have a fairly tight radius. approximately 3/4" so you can have a little fun with it. Once you start to get the feel of things you might want to try a little Resawing.For this you may want to try out a 1/2" 3-4 TPI blade. I think the best advice I could offer though is to purchase a book that explains and teaches the subtle nuances of the bandsaw. I know Lonnie Bird has an excellent book as does Mark Duginske. Both cover the setup and techniques of using the bandsaw. Properly setup and tuned, a bandsaw is an incredibly versatile machine. Good luck and take your time.

[George Summers]

Bud said

i just had a hard time convincing myself that $35 for a timberwolf blade or $9 for an olson of the same exact size and it cuts just as

Don't know where you buy yours but I've not spent over $16-$17 for a Timberwolf blade (granted the biggest I've bought was ½" x 105"). Smaller ones (1/8"-¼") are cheaper. I get mine direct from Suffolk Machinery, the manufacturers.

George

[Bud Duffy]

George , Woodcraft in Boise Idaho

[Jim Becker]

George , Woodcraft in Boise Idaho


Ah...you be payin' for the fancy retail packaged version, probably welded and labeled by PSWood. George is right, order directly from Suffolk to save just shy of half Woodcraft's price. Nice folks to do business with, too.

[Hans Kribbel]

Thank you very much for the desperately needed support. I will go and get my Timerwolf and follow the advice andn instructions you guys have given me here.
I really apprechiate it.