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View Full Version : Question about thickness for Malcolm or anyone else.



Bill Wyko
07-20-2007, 9:00 PM
As you see, the vessel I'm turning is good sized. When done it'll be about 24 inches tall and 13 inches in diameter. On something this size, how thin can I safely go before it could weaken the structural integrity?(the newbie in me again:D )

Richard Madison
07-20-2007, 11:32 PM
Bill,
Did a segmented piece a year or so ago that was 25" tall, 15-1/4" max. dia., with a wall thickness of 1/2' to 9/16". It seemed quite sturdy, and a less cowardly lion would have tried for 3/8", or at least 7/16". Other more experienced folks should know better than I. Your new piece looks amazing. Good luck.

Malcolm Tibbetts
07-21-2007, 12:15 AM
Bill, on something this size, I'd try to get my wall thickness down to about 1/4" to 5/16". The vessel will still be plenty strong enough. The thinner the wall, the less total wood there is to move, so the more stable the joinery. I should also note that unlike your method of building and hollowing, I do most of my hollowing before gluing the top half to the bottom half. I avoid any long reach, deep hollowing. I basically turn the inside of two "open" forms. I even sand the inside of the two halves before joining them. Then I only have to reach in and clean up the final seam. I've attached a photo that shows two halves ready to be joined.

mike fuson
07-21-2007, 1:30 AM
Bill , I try to go 1/4'' fore face grain and 3/8'' for end grain glueing, I don't trust the end grain as much.

I didn't see a picture:confused:

Bill Wyko
07-21-2007, 1:20 PM
Thanks everyone. The next time I do something this big I will definitely do the top and bottom 1/2s separately then put them together. Last night I discovered that the top dot dash ring wasn't going to work so I had to cut it out. While I had the top off I thought I'd clean up the inside. WELLLL when I was taking some of the material off of the ring with the open segments I discovered that it's not a good idea to try and remove material form an open segment unless it has rings above and below it to strengthen it. I broke 3 segments. Then to make matters worse, I couldn't find the pieces for about 2 hours:mad: . I took my shop apart. Finally I found them lodged behind the table saw:D . I was lucky enough though that the pieces were intact and just had to be glued back on. Malcolm I seem to rember in your book about joining the 2 halves. My Dad borrowed the book though and I can't seem to get it back. (He really likes it.) I'm going to read up again before the next one.

Richard Madison
07-22-2007, 12:20 AM
Bill,
When doing open segments, was successful to build 3 or 4 rings, let set up overnight, then turn 3 or 4 rings but NOT the last 2. Then build 3 or 4 more rings, etc. Finish turn and sand (inside) every 5-6 rings, but not the last 2. Have not tried doing solid segmented in halves or pieces. Just build from the bottom and finish turn and sand inside every few rings. Given a choice, Malcolm knows better than I (have his book), so go that way. Your stuff has been looking great so far.

Pat Salter
07-23-2007, 9:22 AM
My Dad borrowed the book though and I can't seem to get it back. (He really likes it.) I'm going to read up again before the next one.

Tell dear old dad to buy you a copy for your birthday. That way you both have one ;)