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Rick Levine
07-20-2007, 2:12 PM
I have a Porter-Cable model 314 Trim Saw and was doing some routine maintenance on it. According to the manual, in order to check the oil level I’m supposed to remove the blade, run the saw for two minutes then tilt the base to 45° place the saw on a flat surface with the corner of the base and the outer edge of the guard touching the table then open the oil plug. The oil should come to the edge of the opening but not run out. Well, this didn’t work. Most of the oil poured out! Luckily, I had enough of the correct oil on hand to refill it but I’m still not sure of the correct level.

These are the instructions from the manual. The photo is the way I positioned the saw.

4. Loosen the oil plug (A) Fig. 13 with the provided wrench.
5. Remove the oil plug and seal. Set the saw on a level surface so that it rests
on points (A) and (B) (Fig. 14).
6. Gear lubricant should be level with the bottom of the hole (C) but should
not run out. If the level is low, add a small amount of lubricant (90 weight
gear oil, furnished with your saw) until it is even with the bottom of the hole.
7. NOTE: DO NOT OVERFILL. The pressure created by the pumping action of
the gears could force the lubricant through the seals and into the motor
chamber, causing damage to the motor.
8. Install the oil plug and gasket.
9. Replace the saw blade.

Anyone know what is the correct amount of oil? I called the local factory repair and they didn’t know either. The tech even called his support line and couldn’t come up with the answer.

Dan Boschen
07-20-2007, 2:33 PM
My saw did the same thing from the factory. I don't know why they overfill it according to their instructions, but I filled it per the instructions and have had no issues with it and no heat buildup on the gearbox during use. With the setup described, the remaining oil in the case should cover the main gear better than 1/2 way in the case when sitting vertical. That should be more than enough oil to keep the worm lubricated during use and prevent over-pressure in the case when the oil expands due to heat (and leakage past the seals).

Rick Levine
07-20-2007, 3:07 PM
Dan,

It's interesting to know that this may be a common problem. I called the company help line and the rep checked with one of the techs there, who by the way, is supposed to call me directly to discuss the issue, and she said the tech said to fill it according to the instructions. Apparently they must know this was an issue.

Luckily, I haven't used the saw much even though I've had it for a few years. They recorded the issue in there system and maybe, in the event of a seal leak it might, and I repeat might be covered by warranty, but don't quote me on this.

Jeff Kerr
07-20-2007, 10:01 PM
I see Norm use this saw on NYW and am wondering what do you use your 314 for?

I use a PC Mag saw for cutting sheetgoods. What are the advantages to the 314?

Dan Boschen
07-22-2007, 4:38 PM
What are the advantages to the 314?

The main things IMO are size and weight. I use my 314 for cutting down 1/2 inch sheet goods and it's a lot easier to handle than my 7.25 inch Bosch. I also have a 6 inch PC Saw Boss which I use for thicker items and it's lighter than the Bosch.

Bob Feeser
07-23-2007, 12:49 AM
I see Norm use this saw on NYW and am wondering what do you use your 314 for?

I use a PC Mag saw for cutting sheetgoods. What are the advantages to the 314?

I have a Bosch Worm Drive, which weighs in at a hefty 14 pounds, thanks to the transmission. Between the beefy 15 amp motor, and the trans, it cuts through a 2 by 12 like butter. It is uncanny at how even of a cut it makes as well; almost steering itself. It has a magnesium shoe, and looks so good, it almost passes as artwork. It's also unbelievably quiet.

Milwaukee came out with the circular saw with the adjustable handle, that made it a rear handle for getting behind it, when cutting directly away from you, or you can reset it to a top handle for example, when making passes across the front of you. (Something very hard to do with a rear handle saw)

The Skil Saw HD77 7-1/4" worm drive, the cousin to the Bosch (Bosch owns Skil now) weighs in heavier at 19.2 pounds, has only a 13 amp motor. It's lighter sibling, the magnesium model is 3 pounds lighter, the Skil HD77M 7-1/4 inch 120 Mag worm drive US.

The PC 314, which is also an oil lubricated worm drive, weighs in at only 7 pounds, and has a 4.5 amp motor. I was talking to a professional carpenter, who is on the job daily, and he swears by the PC 314, and claims he does everything with it. Even rips large 2x12s. He says it has all the power he needs, and the weight difference over the course of the day, makes it the only saw he uses. I'm sorry now I didn't ask him what his favorite blade was. From a leverage standpoint, you do not need as much power to push a 4-1/2" blade, then you factor in the advantage of the transmission, slightly slowing down the blade speed, but pouring on the torque, makes it a hard combination to beat.

To be honest with you, sometimes I get to the point where, if Norm uses it, I want it, but I can't justify the price for a tool that I use so infrequently. So the Bosch worm drive that I already have fits the bill nicely, since I don't have to lug it around all day. It may be lighter and more powerful than the Skil saws, but at 14 pounds, it's heavy enough to give a nod to the PC 314. I also think that the PC 314 which is actually a trim saw, with the 4-1/2 inch blade would be easier to control for making finer cuts.

I'm going to start a new thread called "Tool Buyers Anonymous" :p We could have weekly meetings. :)

Michael Schwartz
07-23-2007, 2:21 AM
I have a Hilti wormdrive that cuts plywood as fast as a tablesaw I have used it to rip 8/4 cherry, with a 40t finish blade, and it handles that pretty well. I have this saw dedicated to my EZ smart system, and I have been using a Hilti 167 for framing.

For torque Wormdrives are the way to go.

They spin at a slower speed under no load than a sidewinder, but they have enough torque that they don't slow down much, so I think they cut alot faster for that reason.

I am tempted to get one of these little PC saws.

Other than that My next saw purchase will be a Makita or Big Foot 10" saw

Luther Oswalt
09-14-2007, 4:45 PM
I just received my "reconditioned" PC 314 ... so I checked the gear box as Rick did and found it was a little too much oil but not by much. Then I installed the blade and made a couple of cross cuts ... they are not cut at 90* as the indicator shows they should be ... and there does not appear to be any adjustment left so that I can get to 90* ... now I'm sure that I can file the base plate at the adjusting slot enough, about 3/32's" looks about right, to get this resloved but then the markings are for the adjustments on the base plate will forever be wrong. Anyone run into this?
Leo

Rick Levine
09-14-2007, 4:49 PM
Luther,

Before you do any modifications on the saw I'd check with your local Dewalt/Porter Cable repair station or at least the factory just in case there is a fix for it.

Luther Oswalt
09-14-2007, 4:57 PM
Good Point .... I will not be able to do that until Monday ... Thanks
Leo