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Grady Cowardin
07-20-2007, 1:08 PM
Decided to take Pat's advice and forego the Hitachi for a big bad Milwaukee (http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/tools1.jpg). Got a pretty good deal on it you know where and it was one of the older units but still new. Came with the 1/4" collet, extra grip knobs and extra sub-base that they removed from the new models.:D $260 shipped was alright with me. Hartville Tool has their pretty decent router table on sale for $80 this month which includes the insert plate, could barely build this myself for that amount. The fence (http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/tools2.jpg) I built a while back should work ok, can always improve upon it after finding its faults thru usage.

Quick Reviews:
Milwaukee 5625 - Solid feel, heavy motor construction. In pics the big handles look like hard plastic but the grip area is rubbery but solid, really grippy. Speed dial is nicely incremented and rotates smoothly. Flick the power switch and there is a second delay then the unit torques slightly and ramps up to speed. Even with the soft start it will move on you. To test it I used a 1/2" straight bit on some scrap wood and my toolbox across the way was quickly filled with shavings. Dust collection in the table will be a must. The unit lifts out of the base easily enough but not by accident due to release button in addition to the main clamp. The collet wrenches are the same size, a very wise idea but there will be no above table bit changes that's for sure. T-wrench engages a plastic drive on the end of the height screw, hopefully that is just a coating.

Hartville Tool RT - Not as thick as some manuf. but plenty heavy and of good size. The miter and t track slots had a small amount of play in them but when shimmed to fit tight they lined up very square to each other. They come loose in the box as does some stick on track measure tape for fence depth. The insert plate is pretty hefty, 3/8", no flex by hand and it should be ok for the heavy router but I will replace it with aluminum soon. The disc attaches very firmly and doesn't come out without some force but sits a tad high on the plate. Plate itself has levelers which is nice.

Any tips on router mounting? I plan to mount it with the handles running parallel with the miter track so that the adjustments are on the sides. The release latch will be on the back side but it doesn't require eyesight for use. Anyone see any disadvantages to this location? It will be in a enclosed cabinet with the handles removed. I have no clue what the slots toward the back of the insert plate are for so feel free to educate me.

Don Bullock
07-20-2007, 1:39 PM
Grady, congratulations on your new router and table.

I thought about the Hartville table. It is a good deal right now, but the plate size isn't "standard" for most plates and lifts. I wanted it for a Jessem lift.

Greg Crawford
07-20-2007, 1:49 PM
Grady,

One thing to consider when mounting your router is how well the handles fit through the plate opening when installing/removing the router from the table. I've seen some mounts that had to go diagonally for that reason.

BTW, that's the next router I'm wanting to get, too.

frank shic
07-20-2007, 2:04 PM
try to mount the router so that the switch faces towards the front

Grady Cowardin
07-20-2007, 2:33 PM
Thanks guys. The opening is a little longer and a little narrower than standard but that can be remedied in the future for a lift plate. That's one of the reasons I bought the Milwaukee since its main body is a motor housing etc.

Greg, I'll prob remove the handles for table mounting. Do you think I need to provide adequate clearance below the motor for removal? Or is that a waste of potential drawer/cabinet space below the dust box since the entire thing can be popped up and out?

Time to start collecting some 1/2" shank bits!

Greg Crawford
07-20-2007, 6:28 PM
My preference is to do everything I can from above the table. That's probably because my body doesn't bend and twist like it used to. I think you'll find it more convenient to remove the router from the base with the entire plate out. As for wasting space, there's never enough storage space, so it may be better used in that way. You'll quickly get addicted to 1/2" shank bits.

glenn bradley
07-20-2007, 7:52 PM
You will love that locomotive. I'm sure hooked. I failed to mount mine at an angle and so my hole to access the height adjustment is in line with the fence. This hasn't been a problem but if I was to do it again . . . Mount at an angle that puts the access hole towards the front a bit. You'll have to drill it.

Grady Cowardin
07-22-2007, 7:09 PM
Good tips guys, thanks I appreciate it. In the process of cutting some nice blondewood ply for the cabinet and marking the insert for drilling. I'll make sure I can access the height hole from the front of the fence. Heat is keeping me from making good progress. That and the 4" of rain we got in an hour or so. Neighbors car (http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/honda.jpg) is full of water, moved mine into the driveway in the nick of time. Houston weather, don't get me started.