Drawer Help

[Brian Tillinghast]

I need some help. I'm ,finally, working on a old built-in hutch that I got out of a parsonage years ago. I was planning to rebuild the drawers using dovetails. The drawer fronts are overlay with a 3/8 rabbet. Originally, the 1/2" sides were just butted (nailed) against the rabbet. I don't want to lose the 1" width, if I was to make a full DT drawer -use orig. fronts as a false front. That would leave an UGLY 1/2 x 3/8" gap. I was thinking that my best bet might be to DT the back and use Miller Mini's to attach the sides to the fronts. My question , enough rambling, will the Minis work. I believe their max dia is 1/4 , right? That only leaves 1/16" support around the dowel, if I can drill it straight. Any other ideas, without compromising drawer dimensions? Thanks ,Brian

[Gilbert Vega]

If the rabbet fits inside the cabinet case, you could either add a filler piece to cover the rabbet then build the dovetailed drawers or sand off the back of the drawer front to eliminate the rabbet and attach the drawer.

[jason lambert]

Just another idea I usally use the cmt draw bit when I need to do that. It is not a dove tail it is a specific draw lock joint but you simply cut the frount deeper than the back to give you the overhang.

[Brian Tillinghast]

Thanks for the quick replies. Gilbert, I had thought about fillers, but didn't think it would look right-might try it on one and see how it looks. Had also thought about resawing the fronts-new BS, not very experienced,don't want to screw them up. Jason, I don't think that would work, unless I used 3/4" for the sides, right? I guess what I really wanted to know is if you guys think leaving 1/16" at the front edge of the sides would be OK?
(3/8 "d rabbet-1/4" miller mini) Thanks

[Gilbert Vega]

Brian, do you have a planar or a drum sander? They could be used to remove the rabbeted section if you're not comforatable with the bandsaw. Make sure to use double stick tape on a flat board to hold the short pieces down.

Good luck on your project.