How many router tables?

[Russell Tribby]

I already have a dedicated router table but I am thinking of adding a second table via a table saw extension. I am intrigued by the effeciency it would offer especially when making doors. How many of you have more than one table set up and is it really worth it?

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a shaper, no router table so the answer is one.

I guess if you made a lot of doors 3 would be a good number, one for stick, one for cope, one for panel raising.

regards, Rod.

[Art Mann]

I am assuming by "efficiency" you mean space utilization. A router in a tablesaw is definitely not efficient as far as work flow goes. Here is a typical scenario. You have just spent 10 minutes adjusting and making trial cuts for that lock miter router bit you are using. At that moment, you realize you must use the tablesaw to make a critical cut where the router bit gets in the way. At that moment, you have just wasted all that setup time. In my shop, that scenario would be repeated often. I have never been able to plan my workflow so that I only use one tool at a time until I am done with it.

[Russell Tribby]

Actually, by efficiency I am referring to time management and work flow. I am specifically thinking of times when I am making doors and I can set up one table with the coping bit and the other with the stick or have one table as the dedicated panel raising table. I don't have a lot of time whenever I'm in the shop so I'm always looking for ways to be more efficient.

[Brad Naylor]

I have a shaper, no router table so the answer is one.

I guess if you made a lot of doors 3 would be a good number, one for stick, one for cope, one for panel raising.

regards, Rod.

When I was making a lot of pine furniture this is exactly the set-up I used.

It worked like a dream for doors - I could make a complete cabinet door from raw stock to clamps in 20 minutes

Now I'm making custom furniture in hardwoods it can take me 20 minutes just changing cutters!

[Jim Becker]

A second router station can often come in handy...and the second one doesn't have to be as fancy as the main table if you don't want.

[Jim Hoelzel]

I also have a shaper, dedicated router table, and three other routers mounted in plates that I can change out in seconds.

Agree that there is NEVER ENOUGH time to get much wood working done.

Jim

[Steve Clardy]

I have two dual tables. These are set up for doors only.
And a shaper for the panels.
I have three other router tables for other tasks.
I have a router setup in my tablesaw also, but seldom use it.

[glenn bradley]

I run my only RT as a TS extension wing and am quite happy. My combined RT / TS top area is large enough that I rarely run into the router setup while using the saw. I would think as a second router location this could only be better for your efficiency.

[Greg Narozniak]

I have a dedicated Router table with a PC 7518 and PRL and an Incra Twin linear. When I had my Contractor Saw I also had a an other smaller PC router in the extension and It was quite handy. When I get around to it I will put that router in the unisaw extension with, as Jim said, a plain fence for basic operations.

The space is there why not use it.

[Craig Thompson]

Although I would love to have... (if I count right) 5 tables like Steve. I invested in the digital lifts from Jointech. Love them and can have my rails and stiles set up on 2 machines very quickly... run my raised panels on the shaper.

[Joe Chritz]

Two router tables and a shaper is normal in any shop that processes cabinet doors. At least the half dozen or so I have been to.

I still do all mine on one shaper, but am thinking about staying with router bits for stick and cope so I can use two routers and the shaper for the raised panels.

A flat piece of mdf makes a nice router table. Especially when you set up a bit and leave it alone.

Joe

[frank shic]

consider getting a panelmaster 2 from rbiwoodtools if you have the money since it has all three shaping bits mounted on a horizontal shaft saving floor space that would be consumed by individual shapers. i've been trying to persuade my wife for the last several months...

[Russell Tribby]

That's way out of my league. I currently have a NYW router table with a jessem lift in it. I am thinking of putting a bench dog extension table in my Ridgid 3650. My only concern is weight. I've already built a outfeed table that is attached to the saw. Because of my set up I have to move it out into my garage whenever I want to use it. The right side of my saw just has a filler in it right now but I'm thinking that space would be much better utilized with a router table.

[Bob Feeser]

Three is a good number if you are making cabinets. and maybe one extra for rounding over the edges.
The whole advantage is you are not losing a setting if you need to cut another piece.
Also newly planed, cut to size, and routed pieces are prone to warpage if left sitting out overnight. It is best to make smaller runs, and glue them up. With a single table you do not have that option. You have to make all your runs at once, then set up and go on to the next setting.

One other reason is that the ouch comes when one of the pieces has a problem, and you need the old setting again.

A double station side extension table on your table saw is inexpensive to make, not much more than a single. You can make it large enough for 2, install one for now, with the additional area ready for another one at a later date if need be.

If space is an issue, I have spoken to someone who is using a high end Router Lift, and he claims that he can reset the bit in no time flat to exactly the same spot as before. Even accurate to a thousandth. That solves a lot of problems, and save floor space. Although, multiple tables require zero resetting time.

When I got a larger saw, I couldn't use the old side extension table for it, it was a different depth. So I converted what you see in the next picture into a dedicated 2 station table by adding legs to it. I put it on a mobile base, at the same height as my outfeed. With removable fences, it often doubles as a feed table, or assembly glue up station by placing plastic over it. ( Also comes in handly for piling up your junk too :) )
You have to do what is best for your overall setup and needs. Router books suggest 3 tables.

http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/6522/2019118030100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/4802/2662049420100733997S600x600Q85.jpg


When I bought a new saw, I needed to change the side table to accomodate the larger saw. So the side extension, I made into a dedicated roll around double station, that I just mentioned, then I built a new double side extension for the Sears saw, that you can see below. The single station on the left side is a Bench Dog.

Sorry for posting this picture that has already been seen in another thread, but it explains a lot here.
http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/3896/2457906590100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

It just so happend that while I was making this change, Home Depot was giving away the Porter Cable 8529's for only 99 dollars to clear the way for the new Rigid line, so I picked up 2. They are only rated at 2 hp peak, and I emphasize peak, but have enough strength for most tasks.

I also have a Jessem Rout-R-Slide, which is fodder for another post.
So all told I have 6, and Steve has me beat at 9, and one is a shaper mind ya, which is great for panels.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Make a three sided router table, with three routers mounted in it. That is the shaper setup that Weaver used to sell. Only problem was it had to be free standing as all sides had to be accesable. Over on another site a poster named rebel did a post titled gitterdone, probably over a year ago that showed such a device.

[Russell Tribby]

Bob,

Did the Powermatic base that everything is set on come with your saw? As much as I love the Herc U Lift base with my Ridgid 3650 your base would be perfect if I decided to put a router table on each end of the table saw.

[Gilbert Vega]

I had the same idea as far as efficiency. I have two 7518's each mounted in a Jessem Mast-R-Lift as well as a Jessem plate with a 890 mounted on it. Real easy to go from on to the other on my tablesaw extension.

[Michael Gibbons]

Back a couple years ago when I took a WW'ing class, the instructor had made three identical router tables which made doing the cabinet door for our projects really easy. He had them on three sides of a support pole which keep the operation quite efficient.i want to build another one but this time put a router lift in it.

[Russell Tribby]

Well, Bob, you've convinced me to shoot for three. I've decided I'm going to build the work station that is pictured below. I'm going to put a bench dog extension on the left side and shop made table with lift on the right hand side. Thanks for the insight. I don't know when I'll get around to it but I'll post pics when I do.http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v351/JRin10/Woodworking/MobileBase640.jpg

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I already have a dedicated router table but I am thinking of adding a second table via a table saw extension. I am intrigued by the effeciency it would offer especially when making doors. How many of you have more than one table set up and is it really worth it?

Hoe many is a BRAZILLION ~???

[Bob Feeser]

Well, Bob, you've convinced me to shoot for three. I've decided I'm going to build the work station that is pictured below. I'm going to put a bench dog extension on the left side and shop made table with lift on the right hand side. Thanks for the insight. I don't know when I'll get around to it but I'll post pics when I do.http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v351/JRin10/Woodworking/MobileBase640.jpg

Russell,
Thank you for the nod. The newer Bench Dog side table router extension is all cast iron. The one that I bought has an aluminum border, with a compressed board center that is subject to seasonal changes of humidity. So during certain times of the year, it condenses and then when you approach the aluminum lip it can catch the piece when making a pass. I have never used the solid cast iron model, but I am sure it fixes that problem. The problem I am mentioning is very slight, so I am being critical.
The table saw station that you provided in the picture looks like a lot of thought went into it, and is very well planned. Nice unit. Thanks again for responding. Any questions you may have, I would be glad to help all I can. Bob

[John Lucas]

I put together a router garage to make ne table serve many purposes...door handling particularly.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/copy_of_www_woodshopdemos_com/cmt-rt13-9.jpg
Beth slides router plate from garage

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/copy_of_www_woodshopdemos_com/cmt-rt13-13.jpg

and places it in router table.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/copy_of_www_woodshopdemos_com/cmt-rt9-7.jpg

The garage holds three routers (cope/stick/raised panel) and pocket screw plate and PC portable edge sander in a plate.

[Bob Feeser]

Bob,

Did the Powermatic base that everything is set on come with your saw? As much as I love the Herc U Lift base with my Ridgid 3650 your base would be perfect if I decided to put a router table on each end of the table saw.

Russ,
The powermatic base came as a consolation prize when the PM 8" planer arrived with rust spots on the top of the bed. It was as if they cosmolened the surface after some water droplets got on it.
http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/5629/2767670790100733997S600x600Q85.jpg
As I recall it was about a 200 dollar mobile base, but I do remember that they charged me 40 dollars for it from Amazon. I asked them for it in exchange of the problems. The countered with a 160 dollar discount. I agreed to pay the difference.

So I used a random orbit sander with extra fine paper, and finished it with finer grades of steel wool, and accepted the mobile base.
http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/4417/2523857720100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

And here it is cleaned up, after all of that rubbing.

http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/4481/2444888260100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

The end result of the rubbing is that it gave it a polished surface, something that the wood loves to glide over, just like on a worn in bed.

I hate to admit it, but it also had a tiny nick in the surface, not at a critical spot, that they touched with what I will call a polishing grinder. Technically their is about a 1, or 2 thousandths impression the size of about a dime, a couple of inches into the outfeed side in the middle. It is not in a critical spot. If it was on the leading edge of the outfeed table, that would be a different story. Everything else about it was set up, and is operationally perfect. All beds are totally flat, parallel, and at a perfect 90 to the fence.

Between not wanting to carry it back up the steps, and having the ability to correct the problem with some gentle fine sanding, I went for accepting the base. I also didn't want to risk getting a replacement, that somehow was not as good. It really was perfectly true on every plane, and I could not see even a whisper of light under a straight edge, anywhere else on the beds. I always say, "Strive for perfection, and settle for excellence.":)

[Bob Feeser]

John,
I have to say that the router garage is an ingenious idea. Hands down it has to be the space conservation move of the century, while still enjoying the benefit of not losing a setting. You can't beat that. Also, being able to add a PC portable edge sander to an insert turning your router table into a stationary spindle sander is another treat.

I also want to say, that if space allows, a multi router station, or multiple tables, with zero set up time, that allow you to go over and flip one switch is a very nice setup.

Side extension tables on the table saw are something that you want anyhow. I did not add router tables to my new table saw, but converted the older second saw for that purpose. That compensated for the very minor limitation, in that you are only able to cut boards that are less than 2 feet wide, or thereabouts, while the routers are set up, unless of course, you want to remove the router with insert, much like you do with the garage. I never have had to do that, because I did not need to make cuts over about 2 feet while the tables were set up. (I am using the 2 foot measurement loosely.)

Another advantage to having router tables on a table saw extension wing is that your table saw fence can act as a super accurate aligning device to get your router table fence set right. This has 2 advantages.

When you are cutting panels for doors lets say, and you want to make multiple passes. You just mate up your table saw fence to the back of the router fence, and use it as a measuring device for your first pass. Then you are able to do the same for your finishing passes as well. With a fine measuring tape on your fence, you can get very exact, repeatable fence settings for your router passes that way.
When using a miter gauge, with hold downs on it, http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/5228/2635753640100733997S600x600Q85.jpgfor routing the tips of boards, something that is near impossible to do with just holding it by hand. You have the advantage of using the table saw fence to line up the router fence perfectly parallel to your miter slot on your router table. (So when making a table, be sure and install your miter slot perfectly parallel with your miter slot/table saw fence. If your router fence in the above picture is off by only a couple of degrees, you get an uneven rout on the end of the board. (Notwithstanding, a regular square is all you need to get a router fence, square with the table)

Another consideration is that I also spend a good deal of time, balancing the 4 corner hold down screws on the top of the insert, with the flat tipped melamine screws under the base to get the insert perfectly flat with the top of the table. For me that would mean additional set up time to reinsert the insert. Maybe you have a good method of compensating for that. I know some others let the weight of the router act as all of the security they need. Then you get into the creative methods of using spacers (on the individual inserts?) to level it with the top. I have seen Wood Shop Demos, and am a fan of yours.
http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/5325/2218059950100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

Another interesting point is that I bought Sears 5hp whisper quiet vacs, and the optional, either .3 or .5 micron filter, to go under the table that you see in my earlier post picture. Adding a single switch to turn on the router, and the vac at the same time, about a 16 or 20 dollar item, gives you the ease of going over, flipping one switch, and routing away. Nothing is easier than doing that. If you have the space, dedicated stations for everything rules. I bought 2 of the vacs to be able to do that on one of my other setups as well. Believe it or not, for a while, I would enter the shop, and purposely go over and hit the switch, just to marvel at how quiet that particular model shop vac was. It was even quieter than the router. It was a perk, watching them both kick on at the same time. With your system using the router garage, you never have to unhook the vac hose, because the fence, router station and hose are able to be permenantly hooked up. All you have to do is drop in the router with insert, plug it in, and rout away. Sweet. :)

I find that shop vacs are great for routing, because routers generate such a small amount of waste, as compared to a planer, or jointer. So shop vacs for routers, fits the bill quite nicely. You also avoid having to go over to turn on a large dust collection system, on the other side of the shop, that is drawing air through a 2 inch straw.

I even tried Y ing off the 2" hose, and the shop vac did the job for dual tables with plenty of air to spare.

No matter which set up you choose, John's idea of a router garage can be incorporated into it, thereby giving you unlimiited flexibiity.