What rip blade for TS

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi, I have a 80t freud diablo I have used for ripping for quite some time even though its advised against. Anyways I think I bent it a bit. It wobbles just a little bit but now I notice burning.I got some 12/4 maple stuck in blade.

So what is the best ripping blade out there that leaves very litte chip and is thin kerf ?
For Hardwood?
For Plywood?

I know its opinions but send me in the right direction please.

Thanks

[Gary Keedwell]

80 tooth for ripping? You should think about getting a dedicated blade at around 24 teeth. There are alot of guys here that use a 40 or 50 combo for cross-cutting and ripping. In a pinch I will use my 40 tooth for ripping but if I have alot of ripping to do I always use my dedicated blade.
There isn't enough clearance with an 80 tooth for the chips to evacuate, so it will get hot and expand. I think that's why your blade got wobbly. You actually got it hot and it changed shape on you.
Good luck in finding a good blade. There are plenty out there.
Gary K.

[Craig D Peltier]

80 tooth for ripping? You should think about getting a dedicated blade at around 24 teeth. There are alot of guys here that use a 40 or 50 combo for cross-cutting and ripping. In a pinch I will use my 40 tooth for ripping but if I have alot of ripping to do I always use my dedicated blade.
There isn't enough clearance with an 80 tooth for the chips to evacuate, so it will get hot and expand. I think that's why your blade got wobbly. You actually got it hot and it changed shape on you.
Good luck in finding a good blade. There are plenty out there.
Gary K.

THANKS, so a 24 tooth wont cause chip out? I have a brandy new freud 24 tooth by reccomendation of a creeker for ripping thick stock, like 12/4 oak or maple.Maybe I should use it full time.I do very little crosscutting on my TS.

[David Tiell]

If the vast majority of your cutting is ripping, the 24 tooth will work well. With 24 teeth, the teeth are spaced further apart and allow for much more efficient removal of the chips during the cutting operation. If you used your TS for more than a little crosscutting, it would probably behoove you to buy a decent combination blade (I really like and highly recommend the 40 tooth Forrestt WWII TK, but as you stated, its a personal preference) or a dedicated cutoff blade for the crosscutting. Either way you go, it sounds like you probably need a new blade to replace your 80 tooth blade.

[glenn bradley]

I run a 24T Lietz TK and love it.

[Nancy Laird]

Craig, see if you can find a 24T Everlast. They are great blades - a little pricey but worth it!

Nancy

[Jamie Buxton]

If you're ripping and get the blade stuck, you're probably not using a splitter to its best advantage. A good splitter prevents the wood from pinching the rear of the blade. This is healthier for the blade, and healthier for you. Wood closing the kerf is a big cause of kickback. Look into Microjig's splitter: http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm

[scott spencer]

Hi Craig – It’s true that a 24T ripper is a good blade for hogging thru thick material without burning or bogging down your saw, but you’re also correct that they’re not known for their clean cut or lack of tearout, and they crosscut horribly. A blade like the 30T Forrest WWII TK (http://www.epinions.com/content_384567447172)offers a lot cleaner cut yet still handles thick stock nearly as well, plus offers good crosscuts.

If you’ve been getting acceptable results ripping with an 80T blade, then I suspect that you don’t rip thick stock too often. Perhaps a 60T TK blade like the Freud LU88R010 will suit you. I regularly rip to 6/4” and more with it, and it leaves a very clean edge. It's ~ $45 shipped.

The Infinity Combomax TK (http://www.epinions.com/content_380232306308)is another good versatile choice that has particularly low tearout, yet will rip well up to nearly 2". ~ $65.

Any of the popular highend 40 or 50T general purpose/combo blades should also be a good choice...WWII, Ridge Carbide TS2000, Freud LU83, etc.

[Bill White]

I use the Infinity TK 24th ripper on my RAS (yes, you CAN rip on one). Very pleased w/ the results.
Bought it 'cause I need a rip blade in a hurry. Have not been disappointed.
Bill

[Mark Singer]

A 24 tooth blade is best. Freud, Forrest are both very good! I have many Mastercut Blades which I bought as a closeout years ago and they are great also

[Greg Cole]

For rough rips a 24 T is a good choice IMHO.
For a smoother rip a 32 or 40 tooth is better, I have a Freud 32T glue line rip that leaves a very nice surface that requires minimal passes to get it perfectly smooth and ready the next step. I didn't think a TS could leave as nice of a surface behind until I ponied up the clams for a good rip blade. Ya get what ya pay for, MOST of the time with blades.
Your feed rate & blade combo will also have an affect on the finish, burning etc.... not too mention the feed rate is different based on the material being cut. Keeping the blade clean is paramount to performance too. The lesser tooth count blades can be sharpened for a reasonable amount. If you can find someone with a CNC blade sharpener (I have had my good blades done this way & like the result) definately give it a chance on a high $ blade when it's to the point of needing sharpening. Locally I pay $0.50 a tooth for sharpening.

Greg

[Craig D Peltier]

If you're ripping and get the blade stuck, you're probably not using a splitter to its best advantage. A good splitter prevents the wood from pinching the rear of the blade. This is healthier for the blade, and healthier for you. Wood closing the kerf is a big cause of kickback. Look into Microjig's splitter: http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm

I have this splitter, I set it up and the kerf I think on a Freud Diablo is too small to fit pass the slpitter.I even tried the other 2 splitters they gave me with kit.
Its also an underpowered saw for that much wood and the wrong blade I found out. My TS is the ridgid 10 inch 1.5hp I believe on 110 volt.

[Craig D Peltier]

For rough rips a 24 T is a good choice IMHO.
For a smoother rip a 32 or 40 tooth is better, I have a Freud 32T glue line rip that leaves a very nice surface that requires minimal passes to get it perfectly smooth and ready the next step. I didn't think a TS could leave as nice of a surface behind until I ponied up the clams for a good rip blade. Ya get what ya pay for, MOST of the time with blades.
Your feed rate & blade combo will also have an affect on the finish, burning etc.... not too mention the feed rate is different based on the material being cut. Keeping the blade clean is paramount to performance too. The lesser tooth count blades can be sharpened for a reasonable amount. If you can find someone with a CNC blade sharpener (I have had my good blades done this way & like the result) definately give it a chance on a high $ blade when it's to the point of needing sharpening. Locally I pay $0.50 a tooth for sharpening.

Greg

Thanks for tips. What is a glue line rip blade?

[Dick Bringhurst]

Craig. I use a 10 x 24 Tenryu Rapid Cut. Kerf is 0.079. I've used it on 2x oak, maple and bocote. Its rated as semi-smooth cut. It just glides through the cut. I'm very happy with it. Dick B.

[Greg Cole]

Craig....
Linky for glue line rip.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=10630&cookietest=1

You can also get the Freud Industrial version, which has all the same attributes but not the teflon coating and it's about $20 cheaper.

Cheers.

Greg