Sliding Or Regular Table Saw

[Scott Felicetti]

I'm working with mostly veneers 1/16" and 1/8" thick. Maple and Poplar.
Lengths range from 3' to 6'. Mostly in between.
Widths range from 8" to 14".

I have to make precision cuts in length to place veneers into a circular mold. Trimming fractions of an inch off the length of each sheet of veneer. Circumference decreases as we place each additional veneer into the mold.

What type of table saw would work best for making precision cuts of veneers in these dimensions in the manner described. A sliding Table Saw seems to go for hugh money. I've been told that for precision cuts this is the way to go. Can I get consistent results easily with a simple table saw? I think the minimax version start at 5 Grand.
Help.
Scott

[Burt Waddell]

I think that a good move would be something like the EZ Smart System. (there is a mfg forum for EZ Smart here on sawmill creek). The New Power Bench would allow you to create a top that would easily handle the sizes you are thinking about. The design of the ez rail would hold the thin pieces in place while you cut them. Using a system where the veneer is put in place and then the cutting tool is moved would make cuts easier.

Burt

[Chris Barton]

For veneer, nothing is more precise than hand cutting. So, if precision is what you seek, get a good veneer saw...

[Jim Becker]

For what you describe, a Euro slider is likely the right tool despite the unfortunately cost. The reason I say this is that you can clamp the workpiece to the wagon and safely make very precise cuts. A 5' 6" slider will cover most of your cutting needs if you truly don't need to do 6' cuts. If so, your investment will be higher as you'll have to go with an 8' 6" wagon. While I'm a fan of MiniMax, and have a shop full of tools from them, but they are not the only option. You may also want to check out Hammer, for example. They are the "value" line from Felder.

[Scott Felicetti]

Thanks Burt.
I took a look around at the EZ system and thought it was really great. I don't know enough about tools to judge but it seems everyone around this forum is enjoying the product. I'm assuming the EZ system is the brain child of Dino. Once set up properly making straight precision cuts should be easy. I have to be able to replicate the cuts and be consistent piece to piece. It would take me about a decade to figure out what attachments I need and how to set it up and get it going. Remember I basically need to cross cut the length down no more than a few inches per veneer sheet. The veneers are long 3' to 6' long and 8" to 14" wide and would be a pain in the ass to handle and keep in place to cut. Remember they are thin and floppy.
I read somewhere the creator is out in Edison NJ. My machinists that make my molds are not far from Edison and I'm out in Long Island, NY. Maybe I could find Dino out in Jersey and convince him to set me up and get me going for a price. Anyway thanks for the heads up.
Scott

[Scott Felicetti]

For veneer, nothing is more precise than hand cutting. So, if precision is what you seek, get a good veneer saw...

Chris,
A veneer saw, you want me to free hand it? I can't even walk straight.
I refer to them as veneers. That may be misleading. It's not rotary cut veneer or anything papery. It starts out as Lumber. Then it is resawn and sanded down to 1/16" and 1/8" thick pieces. The veneer or what I call "plys" are then placed into a mold... laminated and molded into a circle. The length of the plys prior to being placed into the mold is crucial. I need to be able to accurately measure and trim the length of the plys down in very small increments. Plus the cut has to be clean and smooth. My skills are weak, so it has to be set up for a monkey to do. I'm off to google what a veneer saw looks like. Thanks,
Scott

[Chris Barton]

Again, it's a little vague as to what you're needing to do here. A $20 veneer saw and a straightedge will cut veneer 1/8" no problem. I have a sliding table saw and it's not a solution for veneer work, even at 1/8'...

[Burt Waddell]

Scott,

The number for Dino is 1-732-287-2422. Tell him what you need to accomplish and I'm sure he'll be most helpful.

Also here is a link to some photos of a bridge setup that I put together back in April. It was setup primarily for crosscuts. http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingSignin.jsp?Uc=drgivcf.75g9zxlb&Uy=eujigr&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0


Burt

[Scott Felicetti]

Wow Burt great set up. I think that would do the trick for me.

[Scott Felicetti]

Burt,
I want to build a set up just like yours. I may have to go with a longer Delta Unifence because I'll be cross cutting veneers that can be as long as 82". Any recommendations on a source to buy the Unifence?

Can you offer any tips on construction? Are the parts for the Bridge that raise the EZ rail system EZ parts or something else? What did you use for the top?

I can't imagine how I couldn't achieve great consistent cross cutting results with this set up. Thanks for the pics.
Scott

[Burt Waddell]

Burt,
I want to build a set up just like yours. I may have to go with a longer Delta Unifence because I'll be cross cutting veneers that can be as long as 82". Any recommendations on a source to buy the Unifence?

I'm not sure of a good source. I found mine at lowes when they were clearing them out for about 1/2 price. Amazon is always a good place to start.

Can you offer any tips on construction? Are the parts for the Bridge that raise the EZ rail system EZ parts or something else? What did you use for the top?

As for construction, I needed a storage cabinet, So I just put the system on top of the storage cabinet. As always, I put casters under the table.

The parts on this table are some that I made but I recommend the EZ parts. This table was made before the EZ Parts were available. At an absolute minimum, you'll want a B-200 bridge, an EZ Saw base and a 50" rail.

The top is formica over 3/4" plywood.

I can't imagine how I couldn't achieve great consistent cross cutting results with this set up. Thanks for the pics.
Scott


Scott.

You're most welcome. Glad I could help.

Burt