Rests: iron or Steel?

[Burt Alcantara]

I'm still using my original Nova tool rest that came with the 1624. It's got a few nicks that I file down but otherwise I feel it is "sluggish." I bought the Sorby "S" rest in stainless. It's hard for me to evaluate because I don't like the configuration of the rest at all. It almost feels too slick.

However, when making small boxes, my 12" rest won't let me get close to the work piece being blocked by the tailstock and chuck. A 6-9" would be much better.

Bestwood sells an interesting modular system in stainless but very expensive. The Sorby is somewhat reasonable. Woodcraft sells a system in iron that is very affordable, plus, they are almost across the street from my house!

As far as bowl shapes, I think I might prefer a simple curve. One problem with the "S" is to get the rest inside a bowl I have to get it centered over the bed. My banjo doesn't work too well that way because the handle lock won't engage with the bed in the way.

Suggestions and ideas welcomed.
Burt

[JOHN VITOSKY]

Hey Im not trying to steal your thread, but I posted awhile back about the 1624-like/dislikes of owners. How is yours?

[Mike A. Smith]

I know the folks with more experience will have some good advice for you, but...


Woodcraft ... almost across the street from my house!

Geez, my next project would have to be a "begging" bowl!

[Burt Alcantara]

The 1624 is fine. I'm using the stock legs and finding as I use larger rough cut blanks I get much more wobble. I'm also finding I need more shelving so a shop-made stand is next.

The motor/belt is noisy and I don't like the offering of jaws though I can probably use any manufacturer's jaws.

I find the tailstock not that fluid to mount. It's not a pickup-the-tailstock-and-shove-it-in type of tailstock. One hand to hold it on the bed, another hand to align the locking plate and another hand to keep the locking lever up. Just an annoyance.

The only thing I'd like is a variable speed motor but that's a nice-to-have not a must-have. Besides, I'm too cheap to go out and buy a "better" lathe when I'm only turning for 6 months. But, ahhh...we digress. What are YOUR preferences in tool rests?

Burt

[Ian Welford]

Try aralditing a piece of stainless or high speed steel to the top of your tool rest. Then it will be harder to knick and if you don't like it you just chip away the araldite and remove it then refile?

For a shorter rest if you can get mild steel the sixe of your tool post then ask around for a few bits of pipe ( 12 in dia steel pipe is available) and get a slice about 2" thick then weld to the stem and bingo custom tool post the size you want.

It's a good idea to round over the edges for safety but you also get the benefit of a true circle to guide your eye and hand when doing inside of bowls.

Happy turning

Ian

[Burt Alcantara]

There's welder nearby who I've thought about visiting. I should probably ask him to build one of each. Hopefully, they will be cheaper then what's available elsewhere.

Burt

[Paul Engle]

Burt that is what I did, the welder understood that if i got the angle on the curve wrong he would help me out, was somewhat cheaper than one to order but fixing was not a problem.I got the stainlesssteel at the scrap yard and that was pretty cheap.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Burt I went to my local welder and had these made for the Rikon. I am now having him make me 3 plus a 3" by 6" offset one for the Nova DVR. The first 3 cost me $28 to have them made. These will be $38 because these will be made out of one inch steel.

[Burt Alcantara]

Bernie,
That's it! That's what I'm looking for. I'll run down to the guys shop this weekend and see what he has to offer.

Thanks for that one...
Burt

[John Gornall]

I've heard a few comments about the 1624 having noisy pulleys and belt - mine is almost silent, very smooth - I suggest you work a bit at alignment and tension.

[Terry Quiram]

Here are 2 of many I have made. The post is cut at a 45 degree angle. The plate is 1/4" and the rod is 5/16" O1. One rest is 12" the other is 6". I made these for my Stubby.

[Gordon Seto]

Terry,

I really like your tool rest. They combine the best of both worlds.

I don't have the knowledge and equipment for metal work; so I have to buy mine.

I have the round tool rest from BestWoodTools. They have low friction and the tools slide easily. But because the big round top bar, there are extra distance for the tool overhang and no room to hook my finger under the rest for delicate work.

I like the shape of the Oneway tool rest. Easier for tool control but have to maintain the smoothness. The Oneway 6" tool rest is what I use for small turning. It is well made and the price is affordable.

Gordon

[Rich Souchek]

Burt & Gordon,
One of the many thing I've read about and wanted to try is expoxing a small (about 1/4" or 5/16" steel round bar) to the top front edge of the tool rest to get a better and ding free tool surface. Chris Hartly (sp?) says his new lathes' tool rest has a bead on the top just like that also and really loves the feel of his.
So, instead of buying a new tool rest, how about trying a modification to the one you have?
Rich S.

[Kurt Whitley]

I'm still using my original Nova tool rest that came with the 1624. It's got a few nicks that I file down but otherwise I feel it is "sluggish."

Burt

Burt,
The welded rests look pretty good, but (IMHO) you should find out why you are having trouble with your stock rest before you retire it.
I consider the stock Nova tool rest one of its best features. It is close to the one Terry shows. If it feels sluggish, you should file and polish it. I usually use a standard mill file and follow it with (WD40 on) Scotchbrite. After I get it smooth, I put on some paste wax.
Be sure to round the sharp corners off of your skews and scrapers (if you shear scrape with them) so you don't tear up your tool rest prematurely. Belt sander works best for this, but the grinder will do the job.
Also check you gouges for any crud build up under them. If you turn wet, sometimes you can get some light corrosion which causes the tool to drag.
HTH!

Cheers,
Kurt

[Burt Alcantara]

Kurt,
I would think that putting was on the rest would come off quickly and build up on the tool. I do file the rest but haven't gone to the extra step of Scotchbrite. I've rounded my the long point side of the skews and softened the other, just for that reason. So far, my scrapers are used mostly for boxes. I seem to get a better finish on bowls with gouges.

Anyway, I'd rather fix mine then buy another, though I still need a 6".

John,
I fiddle with the belt, pulleys, and tension all the time. I rarely get a silent running. In fact, no matter how hard I lock down, the motor noise will change during a session. Usually, the door will start to rattle then the motor noise will rev up. It's annoying but certainly not a show stopper.

I received a damaged tailstock wheel. Took 3 months to get the replacement. I'm STILL WAITING for the headstock wheel -- 6 months!!!

Burt

[Tony Kent]

Hello
I found a pretty good deal on tool rests at amazon.com. Might want to check there and see what they have going now. I have a different lathe than you do, Delta 16" , but the rest that came with it was awful. Amazon often has sales so could be worth it to see what they have that would fit your lathe. Plus I got free shipping so that was nice too!
take care,
Tony

[Gordon Seto]

When buying generic tool rest, other than the tool post diameter; please check on the length of the tool post also. There were some Delta tool rests for sale on the auction site; but the tool posts may be too short for a lot of lathes.

Gordon

[Ian Welford]

Oops forgot to say use round bar yesterday but making your own is still the best way to get eaxactly what YOU want, rather than what the mnr than what the maker wants you to have. Might be worth bartering a bowl or two for a tool rest. Guys I know over here seem to work in wood or metal and each appreciates the others work.

Cheers Ian

[Ian Welford]

nice work! Mine are a bit cruder but am still learning basic welding but hey they work!

Ian