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Carol VanArnam
07-11-2007, 10:29 PM
Does anyone have an idea for what kind of material I should use to make outdoor signs? The customer wants anywhere from 20-100 signs about 17" x 10" they all will be the same. He wants them to be in the shape of a small dog. The sign needs to be attached to some kind of a stake that will be pushed into the ground/dirt/grass.

I was thinking acrylic but that will cost a lot. I need a material I can cut with my laser, not have to paint, something that is not as expensive as acrylic. Any kind of plastic would be good I just don't know what to try.

need it to be about 1/4" to 3/8" thick.

Any ideas fellow laserheads?:confused: :confused:

Scott Shepherd
07-11-2007, 10:41 PM
Carol, I'd try using Scooterboard. Search this forum for it, I mentioned it a couple of weeks ago. You can vector cut the shape needed as well as engrave in it. It's less than $4 for a 18" x 24" piece.

Bill Cunningham
07-12-2007, 9:38 PM
Carol, I'd try using Scooterboard. Search this forum for it, I mentioned it a couple of weeks ago. You can vector cut the shape needed as well as engrave in it. It's less than $4 for a 18" x 24" piece.

Maybe thanks to Mr. Bush, they will be calling it "Pardon" board from now on... Sorry.. Sometimes I just can't help myself:p

Larry Bratton
07-13-2007, 1:34 PM
Carol:
Sounds like a job for Coroplast sheet. This is the sign material that you see screen printed for real estate and political signs. It is cheap, like 12.00 for a full size 4x8 sheet. I buy the ones already cut to size for yard signs and their $1.25 each. I have not laser cut any, but their should not be a problem as it is a plastic and contains no pvc. The MSDS looks good. I have some of it and I am going to try it in the laser. It comes in different colors too. You can also buy a metal stake that works with it and the stakes are also $1.25 from the people I get it from. Check it out and I'll let you know how my test goes. I am also going to try CLTT on it to see how that works. Here is a link

http://www.coroplast.com/index.htm

Joe Pelonio
07-13-2007, 2:18 PM
Larry,

Carol is supposed to stop by here this afternoon so I'll give her some coro to play with. I have laser cut it and it's not precsion like acrylic, it's soft plastic so there's some melting on the edges, but probably fine for this purpose. Her problem is going to be the letters. BTW that's high for wire "H" stakes, if that's what you use, I pay .89 ea.

I just looked at my notes. On my 45 watt and 4mm coro, I use speed 18, power 45, frequency 1000. After the first cut there are tiny bitsholding it together so that the piece
stays until punched out, or do a second pass to cut cleanly. More power/less speed will cut cleanly in one pass but with slightly rolled edges from melting.

Larry Bratton
07-13-2007, 5:08 PM
Joe,
I just cut some and it was just fine. Clean as could be. 10s/100p/500f. I guess this stuff was 18mm. Looks to be about a 1/4 without measuring. I had the same situation with it not cutting through the ribs at 30speed. I slowed it down, raised the power and it is fine, clean.
We are trying CLTT on it. The toner transfers but when you put medium pressure on it, a 6 on my Hotronix, the ribs show up. We tried a 4 and thats too light. We'll experiment some more on Monday.

Also, yes, your right about the price. If I was buying a lot of it I could get a better price I'm sure. I just asked the guy on the phone how much they were and he said $1.25. I don't think he was thinking of a serious quantity. But still, even at that, less than 3 bucks for the sign and the stick..not too shabby. However, most folks that buy that stuff are cheapskates to start with, so you ain't gonna get rich selling Coroplast I doubt. (However, I do recall an instance where some outfit down here had a huge job of it and a local guy made a pile of money screen printing it)

Joe Pelonio
07-13-2007, 5:29 PM
Larry,

I've used it in many thickesses, and the 4mm is a lot softer than the rest. Once you get to 6mm+ it's a much stiffer plastic and should cut better.

But - You said 18mm and looks like 1/4?? 18 mm would be closer to 3/4".

The 4mm I used is about .16, 1/4" thick should be close to 6mm. Maybe you meant 8mm?

Joe Pelonio
07-13-2007, 7:10 PM
I just spoke to Carol on the phone. She was unable to come by because a forest fire (probably started by the lightning this morning) closed the road she would have taken to I90. She had to go down the pass on SR2 instead which puts her way north of here.

Anyway it sounds like she'll try the laser cut coro shapes route and have a local sign shop do the vinyl.

Sorry I missed you again Carol!

Larry Bratton
07-13-2007, 7:15 PM
Sorry Joe, my old brain is getting feeble. 25.4mm per inch, so a 1/4 would be 6.35mm. See..I knew that :) What I have is precisely 4.38mm. if my caliper is right.

Larry Bratton
07-13-2007, 7:22 PM
She could cut Rowmark Laserlights with her laser. Could probably put it on the Coroplast with application tape. It might be possible, with care, to cut it after it was applied and weed the excess away. I don't know the details of what she is trying to put on there, so don't know for sure of the method I would use. Hope she has good luck with it.

Carol VanArnam
07-19-2007, 3:04 AM
Thanks so much guys. This was exactly what I needed. I used Joe's settings of speed 18/ power 77/ freq 1000 on my Epilog 60 watt. It did exactly like you said Joe. Just a little push and the object falls right out.

I just cut 9 shapes for my customer and he is already getting more business lined up for me.

I did notice the blow back from the flame and vector cutting grid caused marking on the back of the coroplast. I used 2 pieces of wood to block the coroplast up off of the grid then did my cutting. It worked great no marks on the back of the coroplast. How do you "professionals" do it so you don't get the marking?

PS- thanks again for the tip. I made this sale because of your help!!!!!!

Joe Pelonio
07-19-2007, 9:18 AM
I did notice the blow back from the flame and vector cutting grid caused marking on the back of the coroplast. I used 2 pieces of wood to block the coroplast up off of the grid then did my cutting. It worked great no marks on the back of the coroplast. How do you "professionals" do it so you don't get the marking?

Good old transfer tape.

Larry Bratton
07-19-2007, 6:16 PM
Carol, I didn't get anything on mine except a very clean cut at the settings I posted for my 40watt. It cut all the way through. No push required. Try those settings on a test piece and see what you get. Mine was 4mm stuff.