Anybody have any experience with polyicynene foam insulation?

[Dick Sylvan]

polyicynene foam ????? I have been told it is good stuff for insulation, but don't have much info.

[Reed Wells]

I've used polycyanurate before, if its the same wear a RESPIRATER!!! That stuff is nasty. Great R factor though.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Dick.

When we built back in 2002, I had 4 to 5 inches of Icynene sprayed in the attic between the ceiling joists. The R value is the same as fiberglass, but the Icynene seals the surface and prevents air and moisture seeping between the living part of the house and the attic. The Icynene was then covered with another 12 inches of fiberglass.

About 90% of our outside walls are 8" thick SIPs (R-30) In a couple areas where SIPs would not work like bay window, and circular breakfast nook, we had the Icynene sprayed to fill between the 6" wall studs to provide outside insulation.


The biggest selling point to me is that it provides a positive seal between the living area and and unheated/cooled attic. No moisture gets though to wet any additional insulation thus making it less effective.

I am happy with the results and would use it again.

Take a look at their website (http://www.icynene.com/).

[Tim Lynch]

For a comparison to a closed-cell foam, you can take a look at this website:

www.corbond.com (http://www.corbond.com)

We had Corbond sprayed in our addition. R7 per inch, so you fill a 6" studwall to 4" and you have R28, plus a little room left over if you decide you need to run another wire or something. From what I can tell, it's terrific insulation with a perfect air seal, and I'm sure it adds a lot of structural rigidity to the house (for what it's worth), since it's hard as nails.

A contractor sprayed it and after 2 days there was no odor or outgassing that I could detect.

There's a number of closed-cell polyurethane foam manufacturers out there, this is just the one we ended up with.

As a reference, it's the same stuff that comes in the cans, e.g., "Great Stuff," only it's a hot liquid when they spray it, so it sticks a lot better.

[Randy Denby]

Ken, that is exactly what I intend to do when we build....hopefully this year. I know it would be hard to determine cost savings on energy usage, but have you any input on approximate savings over traditional construction? Did the HVAC company do a heat load/loss on your home and do you know what the findings are? ....size unit for sq.footage, etc. If I remember correctly, you have a ground source heat pump, so I'm sure that helps alot on efficiency as well.
On another note, I am looking for contractors familiar with SIP's here in East Texas. Seems its not very common around here.

Thanks, Randy

[John Timberlake]

As a reference, it's the same stuff that comes in the cans, e.g., "Great Stuff," only it's a hot liquid when they spray it, so it sticks a lot better.

Close, but not quite. Great Stuff is one component and requires moisture from the air to cure it. Will not cure in 4" thick sections. The Icynene and Corbond can be spray in almost any thickness wanted. They both insulate and seal well. However, the Corbond (or similar products) will add structural strength to the walls and roof. Even helps a roof withstand hurricane force winds. Check out www.sprayfoam.org (http://www.sprayfoam.org) for additional information.

[David Miller]

I was sold on the stuff after doing some research. I had to un-learn what I know about insulation and ventilation. I looked into it for my new shop. They spray it onto the roof deck and seal everything. There is no soffit or ridge vents. In some cases you have to add an air exchanger for fresh air.

But I didn't go with the insulation because of cost. For my 700 sq. ft shop it would have cost over $3500 to insulate it. I've gone with fiberglass in the walls and plan to blow plenty of shredded cellulose into the attic. I'll probably spend less than $700 on insulation.

-Dave

[Jim Becker]

We are using closed-cell foam insulation for our addition project to provide a complete envelope...it provides R7 per inch, a complete vapor barrier and increased structureal rigidity. Because it goes in after mechanicals, it also means that HVAC and plumbing can also be conditioned for temp and noise where appropriate and all in one step. We already have it under our great room and frankly, it's made a great difference in the comfort of that room no matter what the season. For the addition, we were also able to go back to 2x4 construction which helped balance the cost difference between the framing vs the insulation.

[Brett Baldwin]

I've been in the spray foam business for ten years and the company I work for makes the liquid components for it so I'm definitely biased. That said, you really can't get a better insulation than closed-cell foam. Icynene (which is a brand name and what I'm assuming you are refering to initially) is open-cell foam which is not as good but is better than fiberglass because it stops airflow although it doesn't stop air migration completely. Closed-cell stops air migration and provides some extra structural rigidity as well. The price is what usually deters people. It is a longer term ROI. I strongly recommend doing a lot of research and talking to several contractors about it. As with any business, there are many in this area that are only out to make a buck so if you decide to go this route, be sure to choose your contractor carefully.

If you'd like any more info, feel free to PM me.

[Chuck E Cobb]

Does anyone know of a do it yourself kit for spraying just the a small area of the heat duct joints? I know years ago the big box store sold them, but I can not find any now.

Chuck