Any advice on turning a square platter?

[Bill Wyko]

I've got a piece of splated, figured maple about 12x1-1/2 inches square and I just hate to cut the corners off. I'll have to turn my head stock sideways because it's bigger than the swing of my lathe and I've never done this before. I do have a tool rest extension to get around it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Paul Engle]

Bill, just as usual but as slow as your lathe will turn. I do the bottom first( i use a screw chuck to hold ) put in recess or mortise , finish to 400 grt one coat of salad bowl finish, flip it over do the inside, finish to 400 polish with brown paper bag, then first coat of salad bowl finish. let cure about a week. jam chuck the inside resand the bottom , second coat , etc. I go 3 coats let set 2-3 weeks. I try to set my work like to back lite the corners , sharp tools light cuts is a must.

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks Paul. I'm going to do a couple of solid pieces before I start my next segmented piece. This square one is probably first on the list. My slowest setting is 400 rpm, is that ok?

[Bernie Weishapl]

It will work Bill. One thing I will warn you is keep your pinkies behind the tool rest. The corners are really hard on knuckles even for a split second. Just ask me.

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks Bernie. It's Like a mean school teachers favorite ruler.:eek:

[Bob Hamilton]

When turning anything with corners the normal advice to shut the lathe off before moving the tool rest and rotating the piece by hand to ensure clearance before starting the lathe becomes even more important. If you haven't turned anything square before I might also suggest trying an octagon before trying a square. An octagon has twice as many corners so you are only "cutting air" half as much during a revolution as you are when turning a square. It is a little more forgiving and a good way to develop your techniques for interrupted cuts.

The main thing with interrupted cuts is tool control. You need to maintain the same relationship between the cutting edge and the wood when you are working the areas where the cut is not continuous as you did in the areas where the cut was continuous. Personally, I find it easier to do when the piece is spinning at a fairly high speed (1200 to 1500) rather than the low speed others have suggested, but most of my square pieces have been in the 6" to 10" range rather than the 12" you are contemplating.

You might find something helpful here: http://bobhamswwing.com/index_of_articles.htm

Good Luck!
Bob

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks Bob, that was very helpful. I also think I read somewhere to put a little green masking tape on the corners to make them easier to see. The part about cutting two ways to the bottom of the cove was news to me too. I'm looking forward to trying this. thanks for the help.

[Robert McGowen]

One other thing to consider is that you need to center the piece on your face plate or mounting method of choice exactly in the center. If you are off any at all, then the corners will end up being shorter than each other depending on how thin you go. I am not sure if I am explaining it right, just realize that if it isn't centered when you start, it will be real easy to tell in the finished piece. Good luck with it.

[Don Snethen]

Bill,

Another suggestion is to glue some waste pieces onto the sides of your square so that you can then bandsaw a round blank the diameter of the square's diagonal. Glue on a waste block tenon and have at it. Much easier turning this way. Then after turning and sandiing carefully saw off the waste portions and sand the cut edges. Not as hard as it sounds and makes a much more pleasant experience.

Don

[Horst Hohoff]

Hi Bill,
I did a square platter recently. The blank was even slighly bigger than yours
( around 14 " ) and about 2 inches thick. After I finished the turning I removed it from the lathe to get a better impression of its general apperance and I had to admit I wasted a beautiful blank. The piece was just too thin in relation to its sidelength. It doesn't have a nice continuous curve on the sides but a rather flat section in the middle, which in my eyes is not very satisfying ( sorry but I have not photo at the moment ). With your blank you might make the same experience, so I would think twice about doing a square one out of this particular blank.
I also agree with Bob Hamilton, that a rather high speed is better. In fact, when I do a square or triangular piece I use the highest speed possible for the size of the blank.

[Steve Trauthwein]

Bill,

I agree with Bob about the speed. Another thing to consider is any movement in the wood when removing material from the center. While this is a consideration in all turning it is amplified when doing a square piece. Work from the edge in.

Regards and good luck, Steve

[Tom Hamilton]

Bill, there is an article on this subject at : http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/z_art/suchiPlate/sushiPlate1.asp.

Enjoy, tom